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Post by katt on Oct 7, 2018 20:36:28 GMT -5
Okay dudes i am talking about GY6 and obviously i mean after you remove the nut that holds it tight, then nothing else flywheel other than magnets, tapper somewhat, but its mostly for alignment not to make it tighter.
Pretty sure you can pull it off with your hands if you screw some self made handle into bolt holes of magneto where the fan goes.
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Post by gsx600racer on Oct 7, 2018 21:50:33 GMT -5
Okay dudes i am talking about GY6 and obviously i mean after you remove the nut that holds it tight, then nothing else flywheel other than magnets, tapper somewhat, but its mostly for alignment not to make it tighter.
Pretty sure you can pull it off with your hands if you screw some self made handle into bolt holes of magneto where the fan goes. You do not know how machine tapers work or what you're talking about. Watch and learn.
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mikec
Scoot Junior
Posts: 16
Location: Vancouver
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Post by mikec on Oct 8, 2018 16:32:58 GMT -5
2nd, Magnetic force DOES NOT hold the flywheel on the crankshaft. Its the TAPER on both the crankshaft and flywheel as well as the crankshaft nut. The flywheel key is to align the flywheel to the crankshaft for the correct ignition timing. Do some reading hereAlign the flywheel to the Crankshaft? Pshh. that's only for people who know that they are doing...dammit! Alright, clearly more reading required. Once the new stator was in I tried to boot it up. Didn't start. Got frustrated and used some starter spray and it started up and ran for 20 seconds or so and then died. now wont start again. Next steps will be to read about and correct flywheel alignment. Test Electrical (and learn how to do so) Replace CDI If its still not working at that point my next productive steps will either be to cry or drive it off a cliff. Not sure which just yet
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Post by pinkscoot on Oct 8, 2018 16:58:51 GMT -5
if it started and ran for 20 seconds you have 2 of the three, spark and compression. The starter fluid was the fuel but got used up. You have a fuel issue so go to the directory and research what your problem is.
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Post by katt on Oct 8, 2018 22:58:33 GMT -5
Align the flywheel to the Crankshaft? Pshh. that's only for people who know that they are doing...dammit! Alright, clearly more reading required. Once the new stator was in I tried to boot it up. Didn't start. Got frustrated and used some starter spray and it started up and ran for 20 seconds or so and then died. now wont start again. Next steps will be to read about and correct flywheel alignment. Test Electrical (and learn how to do so) Replace CDI If its still not working at that point my next productive steps will either be to cry or drive it off a cliff. Not sure which just yet
1. DID YOU OR DID YOU NOT TEST THE SPARK PLUG AS I DESCRIBED MAN? There's zero feedback from you on this why you even decided to change stator did you test CDI voltage and stator ignition coil voltage with multimeter before you decided to swapped stator, maybe you did not need to...
2. Try starting with the throttle open to bypass idle circuit use spray as well.
When did you change gasoline in that thing last time?
You need to be more consistent in your efforts to fix it make a list of things that can be wrong and test each one by one rather than point fingers on different components and think it must be that or this then you change it and nothing happens gets frustrating i know i used think like this.
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Post by gsx600racer on Oct 8, 2018 23:22:30 GMT -5
I agree with pinkscoot. Sounds like now you have a fuel delivery issue seeing it ran on starter fluid.
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mikec
Scoot Junior
Posts: 16
Location: Vancouver
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Post by mikec on Oct 13, 2018 20:18:01 GMT -5
To bring this thread to a hopeful close.. for now. I started going through the electrical section of the Derbi manual but that was an exercise in frustration as the colors "e.g. test the green and yellow wire" in the manual were not the same wiring color and arrangement as the scoot. There was no fuel issue. Fuel was getting into the carb. I did something a bit odd, but hear me out. I baked the CDI. I found a youtube video where a guy recommended baking the CDI @ 300 for 10 mins. sound like a long shot, but what do I have to loose? Its a short term measure but sure enough it seems to have fixed the problem. Needless to say, the CDI is on borrowed time so I'll order a replacement asap. Anyway, thanks for all the help. Next stop, get the Ninja running properly. If I can get everything with two wheels running properly I think I can buy another bike or scoot without incurring a divorce
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Post by katt on Oct 13, 2018 23:18:19 GMT -5
Congrats on finding the issue , only took you little over a month...
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 15, 2018 0:27:13 GMT -5
Congrats on finding the issue , only took you little over a month... That's quick. When I had an issue with my scooter, I had just moved. Had to get somewhere to work on the scoot. Had to lay a base. Then put a shed up. All while sorting the house out and working long shifts. About two months. 😕
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mikec
Scoot Junior
Posts: 16
Location: Vancouver
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Post by mikec on Oct 15, 2018 17:41:14 GMT -5
Congrats on finding the issue , only took you little over a month... Haha Yup. My work days have me leaving the house at 5am and returning at 9pm so my troubleshooting time is weekend only.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Oct 15, 2018 23:59:35 GMT -5
Never had or worked on a Derby, that I can recall...but basics are always worth checking before spending money. The checks should show what you need to spend you cash on.
* Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower. * Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator. * Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends. * Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity. * Failed ignition pickup and or ignition relay, check for continuity. * Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module. * Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets. * Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line. * Fuel tank empty, or internal corrosion/plugged. * Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter. * Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked. * A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors. * Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged. * Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl. * Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 1500 RPM to 1800 RPM. (2 stroke) * Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
I may have misses something. I always check the easy things first, things that cost no money/little time to test. My experience and therefore rule of testing? Ignition and battery and charging system. The ignition is THE most ignored system on any scoot or big bike, yet full of failures or off spec settings.
Near everyone looks at the carb first. It is the last for me. Runs good then not? The carb is the recipient of said shit. We clean more fuel tanks and replace fuel lines than carbs or carb parts. Nearly never find a properly setup ignition, however. Some of the above do not apply to you, but you can get a good idea. (Some have FI and funky ignitions)
You got most of it, just need to narrow it down.
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