ratdog
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 342
|
Post by ratdog on Oct 23, 2018 17:00:57 GMT -5
I’m sorry, I didn’t know that
|
|
|
Post by katt on Oct 26, 2018 18:24:25 GMT -5
Good news and good news. First i got a deal on original clutch assembly for $22, after installation of new clutch all vibrations are gone now it was not misfire it was crappy old clutch.
Also that shake and jerking i had when disengaging clutch also gone.
|
|
|
Post by SMALL CC TEK on Oct 26, 2018 23:15:07 GMT -5
If we had the same scooter and engine combination and we had a road course with some low speed turns and a long straight . You had the 24mm i had the 20mm carb on . Say you were leading into the low speed turn and i was on your rear tire when we hit the apex and booth hit the throttle at the same time i would pull you off that turn and probably pass you , the smaller carb has a harder longer pull than the 24 .The 24 mm will come on but higher in the rpm range and that makes it seem sluggish thus giving you slower lap times .. I have slown motors down using that method, you usually use this with a bigger motors say 125cc and up not a 49 or 80 cc .
|
|
|
Post by dexameth on Oct 29, 2018 8:57:06 GMT -5
If we had the same scooter and engine combination and we had a road course with some low speed turns and a long straight . You had the 24mm i had the 20mm carb on . Say you were leading into the low speed turn and i was on your rear tire when we hit the apex and booth hit the throttle at the same time i would pull you off that turn and probably pass you , the smaller carb has a harder longer pull than the 24 .The 24 mm will come on but higher in the rpm range and that makes it seem sluggish thus giving you slower lap times .. I have slown motors down using that method, you usually use this with a bigger motors say 125cc and up not a 49 or 80 cc . This is when I wish you were here to actually back up your idea... because I've tested the same motor setup with both a 20mm and a 24mm on different machines (2 different big bores, one started 20mm then we tried 24mm with matching intakes) and both times we gained more power all around. That being said, your logic may work with a geared bike setup were you use a lot more RPM range than with a CVT setup. Our scoots tend to hold the best RPM range by tuning the CVT correctly, and with that done you won't see low RPMs too often. From a sitting idle, you crack the throttle to take off and in under 1 second you are at or near normally 6500rpm, that's not low-end. The 24mm carb may start to lose low end power down under 3500rpms but that's nearing the engagement point of the clutch. So, both of us on the track and entering the corner with both of us off the throttle, we hit the apex and crack the throttle to take off and both of our motor are now right at 7500-8000 rpms but the larger carb is feeding the motor better resulting in more power, more acceleration, more bye-bye!
|
|
|
Post by katt on Oct 29, 2018 13:44:39 GMT -5
Here's spark plug after week, one side of insulator still white is this normal?
|
|
|
Post by dexameth on Oct 29, 2018 14:19:22 GMT -5
Looks just a TAD bit too lean. Healthy, but you can improve performance slightly.
|
|
|
Post by katt on Oct 29, 2018 23:09:33 GMT -5
I have #115 main jet, i tried to put duster on cone filter (made from original filter) and i lost top end completely before i removed duster. Does it mean that i need to jet down in order to use duster because it gets too rich when air restricts?
And if i go any higher than #115 i get misfires on WOT as on video i showed earlier #130 jet WOT seizes randomly. I even have this on #115 it happened once on 10 mile trip, when i use #120 it happen more often, #125 very often, #130 all the time.
|
|
|
Post by dexameth on Oct 30, 2018 8:47:06 GMT -5
That little filter you have on the carb doesn't have the surface area to draw in the amount of air you need to run at the correct air/fuel, so yeah, you are running rich at higher RPMs. I can't believe you even tried the 130, but props for attempting! haha you are drowning the motor at WOT because the needle is letting so much more fuel out at WOT that it's literally flooding the cylinder.
Example with needle clip settings: I had a 115 that would run with the clip on the upper most notch (most lean). This allowed less gas thru the main jet from 1/4 throttle to WOT. Then I went to a 110 and only had desirable results with the clip all the way down (most rich). So then I went to a 112, and had the ability to fine tune the needle clip for best throttle response all around.
|
|
|
Post by katt on Oct 30, 2018 13:15:36 GMT -5
Checked my jet kit and next size down i had after #115 was #110 and this is what i used. I had a 115 that would run with the clip on the upper most notch (most lean). This allowed less gas thru the main jet from 1/4 throttle to WOT. Then I went to a 110 and only had desirable results with the clip all the way down (most rich). So then I went to a 112, and had the ability to fine tune the needle clip for best throttle response all around. How do you feel when you need to fine tune exactly?
I don't have a clue how to tell the difference until it goes way to rich or way to lean to the point when engine obviously struggling to run.
On my old 18.5mm carb i could not feel any difference between #85-98 main jet top speed was same.
Tried to use app that measures 0-30mph acceleration as well and it were giving virtually similar time on either jet in that range.
|
|
|
Post by dexameth on Oct 30, 2018 13:39:02 GMT -5
So I basically test three things. Idle, low-rpm cruising and WOT. First, I want my motor to start easy and idle smooth. Then I go for a ride and try to do some WOT pulls, not really needing to get to top speed because as you know our scoots will run the same RPMs at different speeds. I'm just looking for a load on the motor with WOT. Plug inspections, black smoke, and poor performance will lead me to want to drop the main jet down. Popping and loss of power at higher RPMs will cause me to upjet. When I can go from an idling stop and do a clean WOT run up to top speed I will then try to cruise the neighborhood at 10-15mph, then up to 30ish, and back down. This is where the needle setting comes into play. Kind of trial and error to achieve the best results, but when it's too rich it'll normally pop and stutter when you initially crack the throttle.
I hope this helps (:
|
|