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Post by hackinhondas on Sept 30, 2018 18:53:58 GMT -5
Some back ground.I bought this '13 ruckus last February with 3400miles on it,currently has 6k miles, only after market part is the CDI and recently replaced the ignition coil, when I first bought the bike the guy told me it needed a new battery since he only rode it to go fishing, replaced the battery and was starting as it should, couple weeks went by and the battery would shit out and only work after I went for a good WOT ride (always kicked over 1-2 kicks) i didn't think much of as I heard these little batteries don't really last too long and Im not dropping $60 every couple months for a battery.So I went on a good long ride today with a local scooter club when I got back home I noticed some fluid/wet mark's on the exhaust, drained the coolant and yanked the radiator, fly wheel has some surface rust(idk if that's typical) I suspect the coolant leak coming from the upper right hand port (entrance into motor?) Due to a build of gunk in the front on the housing ( I wiped as much as i could out but haven't pulled the flywheel to really get in there) so the question is what do yall think the likelyhood of the stator/flywheel having a bunch of crap in there that is inhibiting charging? Any foresight is appreciated   |
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Post by Happypancake! on Sept 30, 2018 19:06:54 GMT -5
if it oozing, most likely a crank bearing seal. pull off the flywheel and take a look.
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Post by FrankenMech on Oct 1, 2018 15:49:14 GMT -5
It does not look that bad to me. Just clean/wash it and keep an eye on it.
The batteries discharge if the scoot isn't ridden frequently. Get a battery tender. Disconnecting the battery helps.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 4, 2018 11:26:46 GMT -5
I would expect to see some gathering of fluid at the bottom of the case were it leaking inside the blower/flywheel housing. I do not think it would leak out the small port, ride up to the top of the housing and blow back onto the muffler without leaving at least something inside the cover/case.
Glancing back at the first picture, it appears that the fluid is near the top of the muffler mounting bracket, not down near the bottom. I'd be looking forward at the level of the bracket or even higher given that gravity would be pulling the liquid down as it traveled in any sort of airstream.
Have you looked to see that the head gasket is not seeping? If the engine has a cooling jacket that surrounds the head, more or less, not the cylinder, then I'd be looking at that, and all fittings/connections to it.
Got a picture about a foot to the right of the muffler picture?
tom
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Post by dexameth on Oct 4, 2018 14:12:46 GMT -5
Umm... is that a crack where the red arrow is pointing?? I'd pull that flywheel and stator and look deeper. Good luck!  |
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Post by hackinhondas on Oct 4, 2018 16:18:56 GMT -5
Umm... is that a crack where the red arrow is pointing?? I'd pull that flywheel and stator and look deeper. Good luck! That "crack" is actually the seem where the front and back halves of the case bolt together, There was a bunch of crud all over the bottom of the case I wiped it down while I was in there, whatever fluid is on the exhaust more than likely came from the rear vents for fan. I was able to test for charging voltage and am getting good voltage at rpm above idle, valve cover is sealing as I checked clearances last week.  |
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Post by jeff84 on Oct 4, 2018 22:50:55 GMT -5
I always manage to spill a little oil right around there when I fill the cranckcase. and really it shouldn't affect charging at all.
on mine sometimes even with a new battery it wont want to start acts like a dead battery, but if I turn the engine over by hand once it starts right up. its the main reason I run without a cvt cover so I have easy access to the crankshaft via the variator.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 5, 2018 13:19:08 GMT -5
Those who run without a CVT cover may find that its presence adds to the total strength of the crankcase half. You may find peekshures of a case that has fractured because it was used w/o the CVT covers added strength.
Convenience may induce its being left in the garage, but the inconvenience of trundling the machine home from the side of the road, if, repeat IF you can slow down successfully will make it an unhappy pancake, so to speak.
I suggest re-installing the cover, and checking for stress cracks.
tom
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Post by dexameth on Oct 5, 2018 14:12:23 GMT -5
Those who run without a CVT cover may find that its presence adds to the total strength of the crankcase half. You may find peekshures of a case that has fractured because it was used w/o the CVT covers added strength. Convenience may induce its being left in the garage, but the inconvenience of trundling the machine home from the side of the road, if, repeat IF you can slow down successfully will make it an unhappy pancake, so to speak. I suggest re-installing the cover, and checking for stress cracks. tom That's true with the GY6 case, because the gearbox case is actually set in on the main left case, causing a narrow section and weak point. I've ran my 139QMB long case with no CVT cover for years now, and I jump/wheelie/offroad every time I ride it. No issues at all. |
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Post by hackinhondas on Oct 5, 2018 16:49:57 GMT -5
Ya my cvt cover stays on.
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Post by Happypancake! on Oct 5, 2018 17:14:46 GMT -5
 Case is not cracked, it’s where the half cases of the motor meet |
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Post by ThaiGyro on Oct 5, 2018 21:38:40 GMT -5
Maybe a few things happening? Regarding charging, if that is the battery issue, is easy to check. You can, (find the wire(s) check both AC output, from the generator to the rectifier, and check the voltage from the rectifier/regulator. That test is simple...start it up and check battery voltage at idle and at ~5000 rpm...half throttle +/-. The low speed output is often just at or barely above 12 volts...good would be 12.5 or more. Around 5000 rpm, you should see high 13's, more is OK, but usually 14.5 max. Every system has little variations. Most generators do little after 4500 to 5000, so WOT not required. If you see craziness happening, like voltage jumping all over, you have a bad regulator. Here is a better test method from my father.(Google) www.homepower.com/checking-rectifier |
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Post by jeff84 on Oct 5, 2018 23:06:33 GMT -5
Those who run without a CVT cover may find that its presence adds to the total strength of the crankcase half. You may find peekshures of a case that has fractured because it was used w/o the CVT covers added strength. Convenience may induce its being left in the garage, but the inconvenience of trundling the machine home from the side of the road, if, repeat IF you can slow down successfully will make it an unhappy pancake, so to speak. I suggest re-installing the cover, and checking for stress cracks. tom with most scooters I would agree, but the ruckus is more than capable of handling all the load. the cover really does nothing other than support the kickstart lever which in my experience anyway tends to wear out prematurely |
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