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Post by magoconnor on Feb 3, 2019 19:46:10 GMT -5
Hello.
Im preparing to swap out my stock 139qmb crankshaft.
I'm pretty sure on how to do it, after watching several videos.
But being its my first time, im looking to gather as many tips and tricks to make the installation as smooth as possible. So if you have any tips, I will be glad to hear them.
This is my master plan..
Cover the crankshafts bearings in motor oil.
Warm up the engine case with a heat gun.
Cool the crankshaft with freeze spray.
I have purchased a gasket set.
I plan to give the engine gasket, a thin coat of copper-gasket spray.
Should I install the engine seals, before I install the crankshaft?
Is motor oil sufficient installation lubrication?
Or should I use Assembly lube?
Cheers Mag
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Post by gsx600racer on Feb 3, 2019 22:34:27 GMT -5
What I use to do.
Freeze the crankshaft, heat the bearings(heat gun) then install bearings on crankshaft. Freeze that assembly, prepare cases, apply sealant, install seals. The heat the cases(without melting seals), and rush like hell to install crankshaft before the heat/chill effect wears off. Install case bolts and torque.
What I do now.
Freeze bearings, heat cases, install bearings in case. Freeze crankshaft, Heat the smaller case half(bearing), and install crankshaft.(it will usually drop in) Use mothernaure this time of the year to chill that assemble(if not into the freezer) Prepare large case, apply sealant. Heat case half and install other assembly. If lucky it will drop(case pins aligned, ect) Install case bolts and torque. If not, then I just take my time and use the crank install tool to pull it together the rest of the way. Install case bolts and torque. Let it cool and install crank seals.
So the short answers are:
Yes, engine oil is fine, a thin coat is sufficient for assembly. Assembly oil is overkill.
Id install the seals last if your using heat. Remember to use some grease on the seal lips(crankshaft/seal contact area)
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Post by jackrides on Feb 4, 2019 13:20:46 GMT -5
Does ice on the frozen parts cause a problem?
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Post by gsx600racer on Feb 4, 2019 13:24:53 GMT -5
Does ice on the frozen parts cause a problem? If you have a nice coat of oil on them, no. If they been cleaned with a solvent, then yes. You will get condensation either way, but the oiled parts are protected. Iv never had an issue with rust.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Feb 4, 2019 14:23:02 GMT -5
I think a minscule amount of condensation should not cause problems. When you pull things out of the freezer/cold weather(move to ND?), they may gather some frost or condensation. You should be able to wipe off the frost/condensation a few seconds before poking the crankshaft into the bearing inner race. I think I'd use a rag wetted with WD40 or motor oil to wipe the bearing race diameter on the crankshaft. WD should 'Water Displace - from the original name' and leave a slight film. If you use sealer on the gaskets/crankcase sealing surfaces, be sure to check the torque of the fasteners after waiting a while(overnight) for the sealant to get squeezed out. For that reason, I'd use a minimal amount of sealer. I have used an 'acid brush' to paint a very thin coating of RTV onto the lower cylinder gasket and chain tensioner gasket when doing replacements. Just enough to make the gasket 'wet' with RTV. It is thin enough (viscosity & coating depth) to squeeze out almost immediately. If you use a thicker coat or a Permatex type sealant, be sure to check after tightening. I've used Permatex on water pump installs, and came back to loose fasteners when checking later. I think the sealant squeezed out and left the pump looser than it should be, thus the RTV 'paint' suggestion. tom
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 4, 2019 18:08:45 GMT -5
Luckly my crankshaft comes assembled, so it only has to be installed in the case. So Im gonna warm the side cases, one by one with a heat gun, roughly 3-4 min on full blast. Do you guys know how hot the engine case sides should be, before install? I dont wanna warp anything, or get it out of whack.. Then when it cools down, I will install the engine seals.
Okay, motor oil gets thumbs up. I have even read, some people use gear oil upon installation. Would this be better?
I was afraid of condensation to, thats why I bought the sub-zero freeze spray. I still plan to cover the bearings in oil before freezing.
The copper spray gasket is super thin, almost like paint. I have never used it before, but I have read good things about it. Should I apply loctite to the engine bolts?
Do you guys clean the oil pump?
Lastly, this is sorta winter prjoect. So the engine might sit around a week or two before I fire it up. Will this be okay?
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Post by gsx600racer on Feb 4, 2019 18:34:53 GMT -5
On the case halves, Iv used Hondabond.(Yamabond/ThreeBond Case Sealant or equivalents)
Iv only used the copper spray on cylinder to case, cylinder to head, and intake surfaces.
Condensation gonna happen if there are temperature differences and there is a lot of moisture in the air.
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 6, 2019 14:48:50 GMT -5
I hope the oil is gonna protect the crankshaft so it doesn't rust.. What do you think about the rest of my plan?
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Post by gsx600racer on Feb 6, 2019 17:57:19 GMT -5
I hope the oil is gonna protect the crankshaft so it doesn't rust.. What do you think about the rest of my plan? I think you will be fine.
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 12, 2019 18:34:34 GMT -5
Should I get a new oil pump? The motor has gone about 13000 km.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Feb 13, 2019 13:57:55 GMT -5
You might consider using WD-40 if available in your area. Light lube that will leave a slight coating that should slow/arrest oxidation. In re a new oil pump, you could test the one you have, or get a new one, and compare how they both work. Spin the sprocket while submerged appropriately in lubricant and see if there's any difference. I always thought oil pumps were the 'most well lubricated' part of any engine. In truck and car applications, cavitation on the gears can lead to irregular surfaces, as can grit and dirt embedded in the lube oil. You may be able to disassemble the pump for inspection to help make a decision. One question that comes to mind is what is the quality level of a 'new pump' from a likely unknown source? Unless you buy a name brand pump. tom
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 14, 2019 1:24:19 GMT -5
the new pump is made by 101 octane. Do you have any experience with them?
So I cover the crank bearings in motor oil, then freeze, then wipe the bearings off with a rag wetted with wd-40, then install?
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Post by milly on Feb 16, 2019 4:56:25 GMT -5
Just something you may want to be aware of the Naraku cranshaft I got for my engine same as yours had a different number of teeth for the oil pump on the crankshaft so I had to change the pump as there are two types. It needed a bit of work on the case to fit new pump. If I can find details will post them later I believe I had the older engine 139qma.
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Feb 17, 2019 20:48:12 GMT -5
If your spending the money on the crank Yes change the oil pump ! If you can get a taiwanese oil pump get it Kymco or something they are like 55 bucks maybe koso or something . If you can get a 101 octane and blueprint it be for you install it that would work .
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 17, 2019 22:00:53 GMT -5
Im not sure where I can find another oil pump in europe. But if you think that the 101_octane pump is good, im gonna go with that.
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