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Post by magoconnor on Feb 18, 2019 16:50:10 GMT -5
Would you guys buy a new cam chain also?
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 19, 2019 17:01:47 GMT -5
Okay, so the copper spray I planed to use fell through.. Out of stock!
I got some high temperature silicone gasket which is oil resistant.
Should I smear a thin coat on both engine cases, and then put the engine gasket in between?
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 20, 2019 2:13:43 GMT -5
Or should I just go with a straight gasket? And not use anything els.
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Post by jackrides on Feb 20, 2019 14:19:09 GMT -5
Cases are best sealed with something that seals and squeezes extremely thin like Kawasaki bond or similar products from other small engine companies. With all you're doing, yes on the cam chain.
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Post by scooterpimp on Feb 21, 2019 16:05:50 GMT -5
Permatex Moto seal designed for bike engines ., holds up to rapid heating /cooling
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Post by milly on Feb 21, 2019 19:45:24 GMT -5
Yes on camchain and tensioner kit as well
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Post by tocoo on Feb 22, 2019 4:15:22 GMT -5
Im not sure where I can find another oil pump in europe. But if you think that the 101_octane pump is good, im gonna go with that. you have oil pump here. one with 16 teeth, one with 22 teeths. they use DPD or usual postal service to ship www.boostycom.fr/193-alternateur-pompe-a-huile |
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 22, 2019 20:00:15 GMT -5
"If you can get a 101 octane and blueprint it be for you install it that would work" . What do you mean by this? isn't not just straight bolt on? |
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 22, 2019 20:06:05 GMT -5
I will maybe have time to put the engine back together this weekend.
Does is matter if the engine lays around a week or two before I fire it up?
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Post by benji on Feb 23, 2019 10:11:45 GMT -5
"If you can get a 101 octane and blueprint it be for you install it that would work" . What do you mean by this? isn't not just straight bolt on? "blueprinting" usually refers to getting an engine to exact oem Specs. On an automotive motor, that would be completely checking all tolerances and even doing machine work to match surfaces, as well as making sure each cylinder has the same compression. On a scooter motor, checking the squish and making sure the crank is straight before install is what I would call blueprinting. |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Feb 23, 2019 11:40:05 GMT -5
The crankshafts are 'built up' from several pieces. (3 I think). There are two end pieces with counterweights and 'throws'. The throws are connected by the 3rd piece, which has the connecting rod big end with bearings on it. The center is pressed into each of the 'throws' to capture the connecting rod & bearings.
Once connected, unless the throws are exactly aligned, the crankshaft will wobble, getting to TDC/BDC at a different position than the other half. That mis-alignment will not be good, leading to a throbbing or vibrating engine, moreso than normal.
A technician can take the assembled unit, place it into Vee blocks, and rotate, finding the high/low spots. The parts can then be adjusted to get both halves in sync with each other, taking out the wobble.
Doing that adjustment and doing it well will make an engine run much more smoothly than when it is done haphazardly. Balancing the reciprocating mass, or matching the rod/piston assembly to the counterweight mass close makes for less vibration also. The vibration would be in two dimensions, fore & aft, and up and down. Both cannot be balanced 100%, so a compromise is made, which again will improve smooth operation. The smoother an engine runs, for the most part, the more hp & torque it will develop as it does not waste energy moving things in unprofitable directions, instead directing power to the output.
See replacing crankshaft, built-up style, or motorcycle / scooter style. There are multiple made in the Far East by local technicians or local motorcycle repair shops. They demonstrate the balancing/straightening action needed after replacing connecting rod big end bearings. I found them fascinating. To watch a crankshaft being aligned using levers and deadblow hammers in a low tech setting was interesting.
That is a portion of 'blueprinting', along with setting piston/bore clearance, ring end gap, valve guide clearance, valve seat cutting, and rocker arm-shaft clearance, and valve adjustment all to exact spec.
I bet 99% are not set to exact settings, accepting the fit & tolerances as produced at the factory.
Generally if you set all those tolerances to the middle of the specification, the engine will produce the optimal torque and horsepower. Tolerances more 'at the limit' will produce less. Too close will add more friction than optimum. Too loose will allow excessive movement, sometimes in a non-productive direction, and can also allow leakage of compression gases, which will then not be burned to produce power.
Most times I don't measure, except ring gap, but go by feel and appearance. They are NOT blueprinted.
tom
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