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Post by paydem on Feb 10, 2019 7:32:20 GMT -5
I always had buzzing sound from the CVT and thought it was the starter motor or variator. Video with everything removed: youtu.be/FLS5sg9-hm0Video with the variator removed: (only variator's back plate, bushing, primary pulley) youtu.be/Ca5aWOD3pCQMy crankshaft isn't great neither. The splines are pretty worn out and variator's back plate seems to have some slack (doesn't seem to have the slack when I tighten up the variator nut, though). I know it would be perfect to replace bearings as well as the crankshaft, but what would you do in this situation? My budget is pretty strict. Would you replace the bearings only? Here's the photo of the crankshaft:
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 10, 2019 8:11:04 GMT -5
Hard to tell from the videos. If you can move the crankshaft side to side, up and down then your bearings are going bad. Personally, I would not replace the bearings without replacing the crank and variator at the same time. If funds are low, and you do not mind splitting cases, you could just replace the bearings, seals, and possibly the ramp plate. If the variator moves out of balance because of worn splines on the old crank, your new bearings may not last long.
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Post by paydem on Feb 10, 2019 8:16:20 GMT -5
Hard to tell from the videos. If you can move the crankshaft side to side, up and down then your bearings are going bad. Personally, I would not replace the bearings without replacing the crank and variator at the same time. If funds are low, and you do not mind splitting cases, you could just replace the bearings, seals, and possibly the ramp plate. If the variator moves out of balance because of worn splines on the old crank, your new bearings may not last long. The variator has 1000km's on it. The ramp plate has good teeth too. I guess I won't need to replace it if I replace bearings and the crankshaft?
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 10, 2019 8:22:18 GMT -5
I guess it all depends how much slop there is in the whole variator assembly. If the ramp plate is loose on the crank, it will can easily end up out of balance. The same thing for the bushing and the variator.
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Post by geoffh on Feb 10, 2019 10:28:27 GMT -5
Ermkk,this is what you should have,assembly is from right to left,the first washer on the right is about 1mm and is sometimes removed to derestrict the scoot,it does not do that. hope that helps Geoff
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Post by paydem on Apr 7, 2019 10:43:41 GMT -5
Update:
I recently rebuilt the engine. The bearings that were in the engine was SKF C4. When I bought new bearings (same SKF C4's), I noticed that the clearance (and free play) were the same on all of the bearings (old and new). When I reassembled everything, the free play in the crankshaft was still there. Other people who use these bearings told me it's completely okay, as it's designed to withstand higher temperatures (mainly for mid-race or high-end engines).
Conclusion: The old bearings weren't in the best condition but I could have used them for some more time. It didn't upset me too much as I needed to change the crankshaft aswell.
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