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Post by wolfbane240 on May 4, 2019 11:54:38 GMT -5
i recently bought a 2011 Jonway 150cc and was told all it would need is a new battery and some tlc. Got it home, bought a new battery, hooked it up and...nada. No lights, no horn, nothing. The relay looks new and all wires are connected. Any ideas where to begin would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by tortoise2 on May 4, 2019 12:05:29 GMT -5
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Post by fuzzyruttin on May 4, 2019 12:08:09 GMT -5
Grab a multimeter (or some way to measure voltage) and start probing. Make sure you are getting power at the ignition switch.
If NO, trace the wires coming off the battery and check that there is power where you might expect.
If YES, then you should see a line that turns on/off with the switch position.
Depending on the outcome of this diagnosis, follow-on recommendations will vary.
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Post by wolfbane240 on May 4, 2019 19:13:42 GMT -5
Thx for the help. Previous owner didn’t have the fuse wire hooked up. Soon as I found it started right up. Now just needs some tlc and I’ll have a decent work ride. 😎👍
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Post by wolfbane240 on May 6, 2019 8:41:55 GMT -5
Ok so after riding it around a couple hours I put it away for the night. Now it doesn’t want to start. It cranks and is getting spark (though it’s weak) and I’m pretty sure it’s getting gas but I’m not sure if all the hoses are connected correctly since I have to hoses (neither leaking gas) loose. Anyone have a schematic for the air hoses and gas lines? I found a manual online for my model but it dose t have any.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 6, 2019 9:58:36 GMT -5
No. No one has produced a reliable hose diagram worth the paper it is printed on. Some one on youtube had a video about the minimum hose components needed to run.
To my mind, for a 138QMB, you need vacuum to the petcock if yours is vacuum operated. We're done.
More vacuum lines can go to emission control devices, such as diaphragms that open/close depending on engine vacuum, or lines from the cam cover vent to the air cleaner.
Follow the lines you have to the end that IS connected, and note what it is. If the loose lines are connected to the intake elbow in front of the carburetor, or to the carburetor, they may need to be figured out. The carb will have two 'loose' lines, 1) The line that vents the float bowl, generally an elbow pointing to ground, and 2) the float bowl drain tube, which may have a valve at the end of the tube, or have a valve built into the float bowl. The cam cover vent likely connects to an elbow on the top of the air cleaner assembly, feeding its vented gases back into the engine, but some just are vented to atmosphere. If your is pumping oil, you may want to vent it into a catch can, or longer length of tubing so the liquid can be caught, or allowed to flow back to the cover after shutdown.
tom
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Post by wolfbane240 on Jun 22, 2019 19:06:25 GMT -5
Ok so I’m back. This time I’m having electrical issues. After changing my oil I over filed it and had a bad leak for a few days. During those days my headlights and running lights died out on me. The brake and turn signals worked fine. I tried cleaning the stator with no luck so I bought a new one. Replaced it then all of a sudden I lost all my lights except the headlights which are now hot all the time. I have to disconnect the battery or they’ll stay on. I’ve checked all the cables on the bike and didn’t see any frayed or cut wires. The bike won’t start with the starter which seems like it’s not getting enough juice to turn over the motor, it just whines. I can however kick start it and it runs though it’s tough. Can anyone help me with some suggestions? Oh I also changed the regulator/rectifier.
*update*
i went over the wire connections again, still didn’t see anything. Replace my horn, it works now! Went to crank over it cranked over with same issue as before. Tried a turn signal and POOF! My rr went up in smoke. Wtf? Anyone have any idea what might be going on? I’m really stumped and I need my ride for work. Taking the bus everywhere is getting old.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 24, 2019 11:44:46 GMT -5
I suspect you got the wrong parts, or the wires are different in you connector(s). The headlight is generally powered by electricity from a running engine. The power is not there with the engine at rest. If the light was on whenever the battery was connected, you have a route(circuit) for power from the + terminal of the battery, through to the headlight switch through the light and to ground.
The stators mostly have two circuits that generate power. I think one is used to power the 'more delicate' electricals, and is rectified and regulated. The other is just limited in the voltage it will generate.
You may have gotten a rectifier/regulator that was cooked as it was fed power through the wrong terminal. I really think you should check your stator wires. You can look at the windings and compare the old to the new.
You will have multiple wires(hahahahahahahah) 1) power to run the CDI(if AC powered) 2)trigger for the CDI 3)generated power 4) second generator power and 5)ground. The first two are likely separate connectors, the others ganged into a plastic housing with multiple pins.
I think you may have replaced the stator prematurely, and have caused yourself new problems. I have seen where the wires from the stator seem to go 'dead', with no headlight power, and then wiggle the wires and things start to work again. Work your way backwards or from the stator to see where power is/isn't, but the engine has to be running for that. My impression, and not verified, is that the two legs of power from the stator are connected to the regulator, one leg being used with a lot less rectification, and a lot more regulation, to run the headlights(maybe all lights, depending), while the other leg is to charge the battery, and NOT overcharge the battery, and to run plain old 12v things like the starter motor(battery fed), and the gauges(such as they are). If these connections are messed up, you can get 12v to the headlighs(as you report) form the battery side.
tom
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