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Post by scootypuff on Jun 10, 2019 9:25:49 GMT -5
So a few weeks ago I put a new kick start on with a new spring, it didn’t pop itself up after I kicked it but I didn’t think much about it. Well this morning when I kicked it over it made a pop now it feels like it’s loose and its a lot easier to kick down and it’s returning by itself?? What should I do? I want to make sure it works Incase my electric start doesn’t, it kicked itself over even with it being “loose”. I think I’m going to rip it apart after work today but has anyone ran into this issue?
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Post by pinkscoot on Jun 10, 2019 9:40:21 GMT -5
Brent has made a great thread on Kick starters HERE. Go through it and learn everything you would ever need to know. On a side note the kick start is so bad on the ET2 and 4 that they say remove it and plug the hole. The ET4 I have the case is all cracked from the bad kick starter, the moral is even the expensive scooters haven't gotten the kick start right.
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Post by scootypuff on Jun 10, 2019 10:34:02 GMT -5
That’s what I figured, it seems like a horrible thing in general
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 10, 2019 10:51:03 GMT -5
At least some manufacturers are up front enough to admit that the kick is for 'emergency' use only. I have seen multiple with the CVT case cracked and distorted from the kick starter being used. Some have even jammed up the variator enough that the scooter was condemned as 'locked up' by a shop. ( I would not use that particular shop...) All that being said, you can make them usable, and work better, if you remove the kick lever from the shaft, and move it upwards before re-installation. You can get a longer 'arc' before you bottom out, AND can kick in a gentler fashion because you have more 'kick time'. Some will have the lever come close to the rear 'bump' on the CVT cover, but you can move the lever out on the splined shaft a bit more before tightening the clamping bolt. The spiral cut teeth need to be clean, and mesh properly. If damaged, they may be made workable agin using a triangular file or a Dremel spin type grinder. They should be 'smooth' when operated separted from the bike. All pivot shafts should be very lightly lubricated, and the spring that holds the push-out gear should have some tension so when the gear is moved by the 'lever' gear, it rotates outward towards the hub of the variator, and retracts smoothly when released. They are pretty simple. A tiny bit of lube on the gear teeth will make them less 'gritty' to operate. tom
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Post by pumapccthing on Jun 21, 2019 11:07:49 GMT -5
I've got a BN139QMB and my kickstarter spring broke - if I start with the electic start, its a horrific gear grind sound so I think the kicker mech is toast - something broke. BUT....how to I get the CVT cover off? I removed the 8 bolts and cant get it off. Are there hidden bolts that tread from the muffler/right side of the engine? Or, do I pry the case off/break the gasket seal using a bladed screw driver?
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Post by pinkscoot on Jun 21, 2019 11:20:39 GMT -5
Is there a bolt in the center under the kick start lever? Is the air box out of the way? If it's never been off it takes some tapping with a rubber mallet and gentle prying at the tabs that stick up around the edges. Use the kick start lever to help pull. It just takes some not so gentle persuasion.
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Post by snaker on Jun 21, 2019 11:36:04 GMT -5
I don't have the different styles but from looking at these forum photo's I think the CVT cover removal depends on the style.
If the kick start mechanism is mounted outboard (on the inside of the CVT cover) then you might not have to remove the kick lever from the cover. Shaft comes with the cover.
If the kick start mechanism is mounted inboard (against the engine in side of the pulleys) then you have to remove the kick lever and slide the cover off the shaft.
Then easily work the cover off the alignment dowels. That's my guess.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 24, 2019 11:09:00 GMT -5
IF you look along the top edge of the CVT cover, you might see a 'tab' of metal that you can whomp on. I used a long remnant of a screwdriver(just the metal part) and a hammer to loosen the cover. I think there may be a second spot more rearward under the air cleaner housing that can also be whacked. The gasket seems to get welded to the cover and to the case, making removal difficult. When you have to use a hammer and shaft, you likely will need a new gasket. If the old one is not too badly mangled, and can be fitted back in place, AND you don't run a lot in rainy weather, you can just re-assemble using the current gasket. If there are pieces missing, it is better to replace with new. I would suggest using some spray adhesive or gasket sealer to hold the gasket onto the engine side case. That way, when you want to remove the cover the next time, it should not stick to the cover, and you won't have to replace it. tom
ADDED I would NOT use the kick starter as a lever to remove the case. I have an example case I can show that sure looks as if the PO used the kick starter that way. The case is cracked around where the starter lever pivot shaft pokes through. Use a brass driver, screwdriver bit, a punch, or a chunk of wood against a flat on the inner side of the cover perimeter. In most cases, you will be tearing a gasket that was apparently glued to both cover and case at the factory. Maybe not but it sure seems that way. tom
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