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Post by supascoot on Jul 11, 2019 6:39:38 GMT -5
I can't seem to find my head.... Just thought I'd share this. With lack of dowels and no proper way to locate cylinder head combined with poor fitting studs, keeping squish tolerances can be a problem. Dowels were an option but i chose a different path. I machined the barrel top down about .080" (2mm) to leave a spigot concentric with the bore of 1.949" (49.5mm) those dimensions are not critical so long as they match the head. I then machined the head to match so it beared only on the spigot leaving about .004-.005" clearance between the head and fin area. I have deleted the head gasket. Because my piston protruded from the deck and I had also changed the angle of the crown, i then machined another recess into the head for the squish clearance with a 1° difference so that the squish band clearance was getting greater towards the centre of the bore. Then I machined the combustion chamber to desired shape and cc,s. Final step was I lapped the head to the barrel to ensure matching surfaces. I use a tiny amount of loctite 515 on the face push them together and separate, clean off any excess then reassemble, so only absolutely minimal sealant is in there to ooze out. Done this for quite some time on various engines with no failure.
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Post by supascoot on Jul 11, 2019 6:42:35 GMT -5
Sorry had to switch to desktop view to upload photos Disregard circle from painting
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 11, 2019 7:31:37 GMT -5
I say nice machining. I do not quite understand why. Poor fitting studs? OK. Why? Maybe I am missing something. I like to machine "O" ring groove head/cylinder connections. Less work, easy to adjust. Never had issues with that approach. Only need to tune the ring. (Ours rings were aluminum/aluminium) Actually, never recall poor fitting studs. Again, maybe I do not understand why you required that much machining. Fun though!
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Post by supascoot on Jul 11, 2019 7:42:52 GMT -5
I say nice machining. I do not quite understand why. Poor fitting studs? OK. Why? Maybe I am missing something. I like to machine "O" ring groove head/cylinder connections. Less work, easy to adjust. Never had issues with that approach. Only need to tune the ring. (Ours rings were aluminum/aluminium) Actually, never recall poor fitting studs. Again, maybe I do not understand why you required that much machining. Fun though! I found with tighter squish clearance that when head was tightened down, the squish would be different in different positions around the bore, loosen the head and move it a little and you will get varying measurements, with bigger clearances not so much much of an issue as you have a bit more give and take. As for poor fitting studs, probably a poor explanation on my part, stud clearance into head is fine, just not able to consistancy locate it, that's all, it all has a bit of give and take. Dowels would do same job. I just found this easier. Only takes me about 20min including setup.
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Post by supascoot on Jul 11, 2019 7:43:59 GMT -5
Oh and that material on the bed is not all from that.
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Post by supascoot on Jul 11, 2019 7:45:24 GMT -5
20min for the that and about the same for the barrel, so about 40min all up
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Post by repherence2 on Jul 11, 2019 10:05:19 GMT -5
20min for the that and about the same for the barrel, so about 40min all up 40 minutes for someone that knows how to machine . 4 jaw chuck is a headache to learn, but once you know it, everything is easier.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jul 11, 2019 10:46:06 GMT -5
Nice regardless. I am a super novice at machining, though I understand the principles of fine work...just a simple brain...I like easy!
As a related note: I have seen "locator" studs on some super expensive engines. They were made to bite the head just a tiny bit, centering and holding the head. The concept was a minimal spline cut diameter to the head holes...OK if newly milled. Not worth anything on old worn ones.
Did not work well.
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Post by jackrides on Jul 11, 2019 12:18:45 GMT -5
WOW!
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Jul 11, 2019 16:18:49 GMT -5
I've seen folks do the other way, make the head drop into the cylinder. Usually to make up for lost compression from using a thick base gasket/spacer to account to adjust port timing.
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Post by supascoot on Jul 11, 2019 17:39:16 GMT -5
I've seen folks do the other way, make the head drop into the cylinder. Usually to make up for lost compression from using a thick base gasket/spacer to account to adjust port timing. Yes have seen it the other way round, some production engines are that way, just not practical in my case.
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