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Post by christopher on Aug 4, 2019 10:41:42 GMT -5
Bought a used 2005 Wahoo Spyder scooter, good shape physically. Previous owner had it ten years and it developed the riding of stalling problem and hadn't used it much in the last 4 years, has about 997 miles on it. I know nothing about scooters, less about 2 stroke motors. Have been doing some reading here and watching videos. Hopefully it will be a good learning experience. The motor is a QJ1E40QMB, starts easily runs for a few minutes then dies. I rode it around the block, pulled into the driveway and it died, no coughing or sputter just dies. Started back up easily with the kick start, one kick ran for a few minutes then died again. I'm thinking it is a fuel issue, even though it doesn't cough and sputter before dieing. I'm used to electrical issues not starting right back up again and parts needing to cool off. I looked underneath and see a fuel filter about a foot down the tubing leading from the full to the top, I just filled it up gas tank and it has fuel in it. Thought about pulling the carburetor off and rebuilding it, I was told it was rebuilt when this started and didn't fix the problem.
Where would you start troubleshooting this problem? How do I identify this carburetor to see what kit I would need for a kit?
Plan on going through the derestricting process but want to get this figured out first, I think so I know if I created a new problem.
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Post by pinkscoot on Aug 4, 2019 11:38:55 GMT -5
 Thats a wise decision getting it running right before derestricting. You might want to give the whole fuel system a good cleaning. Replace hoses check the petcock operation. Be sure there isn't anything that is clogging the flow. Pay particular attention to the jets in the carb. Here is a good thread on carb cleaning: 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/363
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mattyslimz
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Northern Virginia
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Post by mattyslimz on Aug 4, 2019 13:30:37 GMT -5
I’d test the coil, if you have a multimeter. It is located under the the running board, right side. If it’s bad, I recommend the one from Naraku. It’ puts out great spark. that’s the one I have. There’s 2 pin styles so make sure you check yours first.  |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Aug 4, 2019 13:39:54 GMT -5
its doubtful youll need a parts kit to rebuild it. buy a can of carb clean and use some compressed air. while carb is off check the reeds. they are so common to cause running issues.
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Post by christopher on Aug 4, 2019 19:37:51 GMT -5
Took the carburetor apart, didn't look dirty at all. Also didn't find a brass restrictor plate on the carburetor. Removed the jets, sprayed all the orifices out with carb cleaner, checked both jets and they were clean also, you could see through them. Soaked body and bowl in a gallon of carburetor cleaner for about 30 minutes, then sprayed orifices etc with carb cleaner again and finished with compressed air.
While I had it apart I put the fuel hose to the carb in a gas can and put a little suction on the vacuum hose and had good flow. Tried that a few times, worked everytime.
This time Ran for a bit 15 - 20 minutes died, I opened up the drain bowl screw and the hose had fuel coming out, not out of fuel. Started it up again and ran it a few times finally wouldn't restart.
Coil had about 1 ohm of resistance, have to do some searching to see what is good. What voltage should be on the coil when cranking?I
Pulled the reed valves while I had it apart and didn't see anything that looked out of the ordinary.
Took some pictures going to try and post them here, have to figure out if I can put them on the site of have to link to a host site.
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Post by christopher on Aug 4, 2019 19:46:26 GMT -5
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Post by christopher on Aug 4, 2019 19:46:53 GMT -5
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Post by christopher on Aug 4, 2019 19:48:34 GMT -5
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Post by christopher on Aug 4, 2019 19:50:49 GMT -5
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Post by christopher on Aug 4, 2019 19:53:03 GMT -5
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Post by christopher on Aug 4, 2019 19:59:12 GMT -5
Is this the cdi? What steps can I take once it cools off of it all start again to troubleshoot? Is this one of those cases it is easier to swap in new ones? I have a multimeter and oscilloscope if I new what I was looking for. What should I look for it I want to get a new coil and cdi to see if it fixes the issue.   |
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mattyslimz
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Northern Virginia
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Post by mattyslimz on Aug 5, 2019 21:12:42 GMT -5
The coil had 1 Ohm of resistance while cranking? If it was steady and not jumping too much it could possibly be ok. The question is how does it change when it gets hot? I’d go ahead and just pull the trigger on the 2 pin Naraku, it’s cheap and if it’s not the fix it’s still a better coil, thicker gauge, insulation, cap. Plus you’ll have the factory one always on hand.
Those reeds look brand new as with the carb. Make sure when you reinstall the reed block to make sure it’s tightly secured on the gasket or use some gasket maker, that area is a sure spot to catch a leak if not sealed properly.
The Mikuni VM16 has tunable main and pilot jets for real cheap on Amazon and Ali Express. The mains come in 5 slot increments (75,80,85...) they’re certainly worth picking up if you do any further modifications i.e pipe, big bore kit.
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 5, 2019 21:44:41 GMT -5
You could also try cleaning the carb again. This time use a pencil to push the needle jet tube out of the carb body. (it is the brass tube under the main jet) A good bit of junk often resides there. also push something thin through each jet to make sure it is fully opened up.
Are you using the stock airbox?
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Post by christopher on Aug 6, 2019 5:29:25 GMT -5
You could also try cleaning the carb again. This time use a pencil to push the needle jet tube out of the carb body. (it is the brass tube under the main jet) A good bit of junk often resides there. also push something thin through each jet to make sure it is fully opened up. Are you using the stock airbox? It is the stock air body and filter from what I can tell, didn't see any extra holes drilled in it, the snorkel tube is intact also. Thank you for the tip on removing the needle jet tube. Next time I'm in there I'll remove it also. I did soak the main body in a gallon of carburetor cleaner, hopefully that helped remove anything that was in there. |
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Post by chehystpewpur on Aug 7, 2019 10:36:16 GMT -5
the reeds look to be in decent shape though one is letting some light leak through but not bad enough to cause a no start. i would ditch those metal ones asap though. they can and will cost a motor when they let go though so its cheap insurance for down the road. drive.google.com/drive/folders/0By2rcNqfITkKTkg1TDIzS3cxNjAif your considering getting new coil look into this. its simple easy and makes a diff especially at high rpms. in the early days of coil on plug in cars everyone said theres no point its the same but there is a big shift in the auto industry for coil on plug for many reasons. moral of the story its like 5 bux on ebay. easier on the ignition system and no delay between spark and plug. plus its gonna last a whole lot longer than a scooter coil stock vs stock. |
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Thats a wise decision getting it running right before derestricting. You might want to give the whole fuel system a good cleaning. Replace hoses check the petcock operation. Be sure there isn't anything that is clogging the flow. Pay particular attention to the jets in the carb. Here is a good thread on carb cleaning: 
