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Post by dirtyheadsjwu on Aug 7, 2019 19:11:22 GMT -5
I have a 2015 wolf blaze 49cc. Recently I had been riding downhill and probably going 45-55mph (no mods of any kind on the scoot) when I heard a loud winding/rattling noise. The engine then quickly lost power and died. Since then it will not start. Someone I know suggested it might be the cvt belt. I checked that and it was in great condition. The oil level was good at the time although a little over due for a change. Any ideas on how badly I killed the engine, and whether or not this is fixable? Or is an engine swap the way to go?
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Post by catchacuda on Aug 7, 2019 23:18:22 GMT -5
I'd consider starting with a compression test. Can you verify the timing chain is intact, cylinder in good shape, valves okay.
Engine swap? 90% of the users here are enablers and will recommend either a 150 gy6 or a mina 90 LOL
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Post by dirtyheadsjwu on Aug 8, 2019 3:39:00 GMT -5
catchacuda, No I can not confirm that any of those have been checked. Truth be told I'm not much a mechanic of any sort. Before this happened I had been planning on buying a cheap used scoot in need of some tlc to teach myself how to work on them. Now the Wolf has become my project and I bought a new pos Taotoa blizzard that I'm sure I'll have questions on eventually. So basically I didn't even know where to start troubleshooting the current problems. So thank you for some ideas. And as far as putting a larger engine in... I was actually considering that, but all the research I did on that highly suggested that was not going to be worth the hassle. Between top mount and bottom mount conversion, the frame being to small, and possibly being to much power for a frame built for a 49cc wasn't a good idea. However once I get this all figured out I'm not opposed to a 100cc bore kit, or maybe a little smaller.
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Post by catchacuda on Aug 8, 2019 8:26:36 GMT -5
Places such as auto zone will "loan" you a compression tester, you get all your money back when you bring the tool back.
Or even place your finger over the spark plug hole and have someone crank the engine over. That will at least tell you if you have any compression.
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Post by jackrides on Aug 8, 2019 13:34:02 GMT -5
That must have been a steep downhill. For the compression test, the throttle must be open and ideally the slide in the caarb should be held up (with a finger or pencil or something). When doing the compression test, hold the spark plug away from the engine so it doesn't bang around. (Actually, given some thought to the gravimetric relativity involved with this easy task, you really shouldn't hold the plug unless you like an exceptionally interesting experience.) Finally, read that last sentence again.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 9, 2019 11:08:11 GMT -5
Check that you did not have a self-destructing torque drive. A GMW M2 did that, and it became very difficult to start, and if it did start, ran like it was stuffed. It rattled and knocked as if it was coming apart, I think because it was being run at low rpm with a load and was unable to generate much power.
Remove the CVT belt, and replace the cover, and then attempt to start. If it starts and seems to run, I would be removing the clutch assembly and inspecting it and the torque drive for damage. In the case of the blown torque drive, the belt got shredded.
With it up on the center stand, you can rotate the rear wheel, and should feel smooth operation in all the rotating parts. No 'rough' spots, or spots where it becomes harder to turn. Moving the rear wheel, you should see the clutch bell spin at a good rate. If rough or difficult to turn, you have output gear problems.
tom
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Post by dirtyheadsjwu on Aug 23, 2019 17:53:03 GMT -5
I'd consider starting with a compression test. Can l verify the timing chain is intact, cylinder in good shape, valves okay. Engine swap? 90% of the users here are enablers and will recommend either a 150 gy6 or a mina 90 LOL So I finally had some time and motivation (that taotao is horrible) to dig in. I first was able to confirm the timing chain is intact. As I continued on I began to suspect trouble when I took the muffler off and many small metal pieces came out. Once I got the carburetor disconnected from the motor I could also see bunches of metal pieces inside the motor. I'm really not certain how to continue taking things apart so I'm calling it a night to consult youtube for some how to videos. |
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Post by dirtyheadsjwu on Aug 23, 2019 17:57:42 GMT -5
Check that you did not have a self-destructing torque drive. tom Not at all certain what that is, but if by self-destructing you meant me. Then yes I have one of those. |
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Post by catchacuda on Aug 23, 2019 19:45:12 GMT -5
That's unfortunate :/
Hopefully a few things are salvageable
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 24, 2019 0:23:47 GMT -5
Engine go BOOM!
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Post by dirtyheadsjwu on Aug 24, 2019 4:12:43 GMT -5
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 24, 2019 10:00:06 GMT -5
Nah, the 139 goes pop. In lower case... no BOOM!. It can self-destruct and you will only know because it is slowing down.
If you have metal in the exhaust and metal in the intake, I would be shopping for a piston, rings and cylinder, and perhaps a new, complete cylinder head. Melted piston can leave lots of little bits floating around. The oil pickup screen will catch most of them...
tom
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Post by jackrides on Aug 24, 2019 11:28:12 GMT -5
Set the cam to have the exhaust valve open. Use an aluminum magnet up the exhaust pipe to remove the broken pieces.
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Post by dirtyheadsjwu on Aug 24, 2019 23:41:51 GMT -5
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 25, 2019 10:32:10 GMT -5
Buy a new complete engine. Metal pieces are everywhere, -trash it.
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