Post by mattyslimz on Sept 2, 2019 0:24:28 GMT -5
do you know how heavy the existing roller weights were?
how heavy are the rollers for the molossi variator?
im under the impression that the technigas silent pro may have shifted your power band slightly upward.
maybe you have to try some stiffer clutch springs?
im hoping the rollers that you installed with your malossi variator are lighter than the existing rollers that you remove. if the rollers for the malossi are heavier, the setup starts to shift at a lower rpm. if your malossi rollers are way lighter than the existing rollers, the setup shifts at a higher rpm. the reason why I hope the malossi rollers are lighter than stock, is because the pipe probably moved the power curve toward higher RPMs. let's just say that your stock setup built power at 8000rpm. let's say that the techigas silent pro moves the power curve up and now it starts to build power at 9000-9500rpm. you have to compensate accordingly with the CVT. so, let's just say you just added the pipe first, I would probably have changed the rollers and go lighter. when I bought Leo Vince ZX-R pipes, they came with it's own set of rollers and clutch springs. the idea is to get the roller weight in tune with your power curve. you need a roller weight that is light enough to get the "shift" RPM to where it needs to be. that "shift" RPM is when your bore/pipe/carb combo starts to enter it's peak power. you keep fiddling with different weights till it's light enough to have the CVT start to shift when your setup begins to enter it's peak power RPM. so let's just say that the technigas pipe and the carb/UNI filter moved your peak to 9500RPM. you need to tune the rollers so that the shifting of that transmission/CVT starts just before 9500RPM.
if you don't get the CVT into a decent tune for your Bore/Pipe/Csrb/Intake setup, you going be getting frustrated thinking that it's your carb tuning. ...over and over you going to be fiddling with that carb, thinking that it's the jetting, be it pilot, main, or needle. sometimes it's your CVT that screws you up, making you think it's the carb tune.
weights too heavy, it starts to shift too soon when the engine not even approaching peak power.
weights too light, you overshoot the peak power of the engine, it accelerates pretty well until you get to the upper end of the Variator, then it just lugs and it feels like no power at maximum throttle. it's because the transmission started shifting on the aft end of the power curve. after the variator ramps max out, after that it's up to the engine setup to pull it through, but usually in that case you're on the downward slope of the power curve.
usually when you improve exhaust and intake, you have to fiddle with the clutch engagement too. you probably did all these mods and still have stock clutch springs. the more parts you change out, the more "balancing" you have to do. it's engine and CVT hand in hand. my understanding is this, your clutch and contra springs are "stock". you changed pipe, carb/filter, and variator and rollers. you probably need to stall the clutch either +500 or +1000RPM over stock. you gotta find the clutch spring that gets the clutch to bite right before the power curve begins to peak. let's just say that your current combo moved you peak power to 9500RPM and your stock peak power was at 8000RPM. let's just say your stock clutch springs started to bit at 7500RPM, for the new setup, the engine is probably making less power at 7500RPM than the "stock" setup was making at then same 7500RPM. now comes the new setup that peaks at 9500RPM. you need to stall your clutch to engage at more like 8500RPM. if the clutch engages at the "stock" 7500, but your power is at 9500, it's going to feel like no real power once the variator is maxed out.
same goes with the rollers. you move the power band upward in RPM, you gotta go lighter on the rollers to get the "shift" RPM in the region that the engine is making power. your weights too heavy, then the CVT starts shifting at an RPM in which the engine isn't making power. add to that, you changed your variator. depending on the variator, the roller ramp geometry/curvature is different as well as how far out the ramps extend. that will dictate how stable the shift RPM is and how much top speed you will have. malossi variators have roller ramps that extend further than stock, so your top speed will most likely be faster than the stock variator.
bottom line, it's a balancing act. you need to balance intake/filter with the carb. you need to balance engine power RPM with your CVT engagement and shift point.
in regards to your carb settings, maybe you don't have enough differential pressure to the carb for it to act right. being that it's a 49cc bore and a pod filter, maybe there's not enough differential pressure on each side of the carb to draw the proper amount of fuel. pod filter versus air box, air flow, volume, and the vacuum drawn on the main jet is different. I run a 28 OKO, mesh filter (screen) not foam pod on a 94cc setup. it's pretty much a "wide open" carb setup but the mesh screen prevents small rocks from going into the engine. tuning the 28 OKO was a nightmare until I made a venturri diffuser for the carb.
Thankyou for this repherence2. This really gave me more insight into my issue as well.