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Post by magoconnor on Aug 25, 2019 16:59:34 GMT -5
Hello.
Im in the middle of breakin in my engine.
How long do you guys drive with mineral oil before switching to synthetic ?
When Is the engine fully broken in?
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Post by christopher on Aug 25, 2019 17:57:43 GMT -5
Around the block to get it warm.
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Aug 25, 2019 21:08:06 GMT -5
0 Change it !
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Post by magoconnor on Aug 26, 2019 14:37:17 GMT -5
uhm..
Of cause you should change the oil many times before switching to synthetic.
But how many miles do you guys go before switching to synthetic 500 miles? 800? or a 1000?
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Post by christopher on Aug 26, 2019 17:29:42 GMT -5
Zero, I ride around the block to warm up the oil, catch any initial contamination, verify no oil leaks and dump it. Not sure why people think you have to run a lesser quality oil for a period of time.
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Post by magoconnor on Aug 27, 2019 0:13:31 GMT -5
I think its wildly known that you should run with mineral oil, during the entire break in.
Which i guesses takes a little longer than driving around the block.
Must people change there oil during break in at : 20 miles than again 50miles -100 miles - 200 miles.
But i cant find a clear answear when its okay to switch from mineral to synthetic oil.
some do it at 500 miles, some much later..
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 27, 2019 5:02:08 GMT -5
Ha! Never one answer...my take on mineral oil, is yes a decent break in oil with zero other benefits. It will break down with heat faster than you would think.
If you live in an area of high ambient temperatures and/or high humidity, you are smart to change it out quickly. Avoid high rpm...break in on a cool day...avoid heavy throttle take-off's.
It will not remain as a thin coating on your crank or bearings. The heat generated in short time, will allow it to drop, meaning no corrosion protection. Even after one or two heat cycles, it will be a piss-viscosity. Exaggerated, but think not good. Mind you, nothing will go dry, but cling-ons are good here. Mineral oil does not cling well.
On our 2T race bikes, we used it for a fresh complete rebuild. (Or pure 30 wt caster) Take one warm up/sighting lap at gradual/varied throttle to 75%, barely on the pipe power. Then we put in real oil. Note: chrome bore, single ring. You can get away with more time, not more heat.
You would be wise to understand two stroke, two ring ring break in. That is the most important to me. I think...run it gently for an hour or less, unless you can control the road conditions...let it sit until morning and drain it. Then proper oil.
Unless going to the moon...or LA
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Post by magoconnor on Aug 27, 2019 8:05:56 GMT -5
But you think its broken in after 500 miles of varied throttle?
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 28, 2019 2:37:33 GMT -5
Should be. Most manufacturers say about 600 miles. They will always be on the cautious side to be sure.
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Post by magoconnor on Aug 29, 2019 7:39:05 GMT -5
I have gone just about 600 miles with varied throttle, do you think it will be okay to switch to synthetic.
I just dont wanna have it burn oil or lose compression, or anything like that.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 29, 2019 10:25:43 GMT -5
The main thing with 'break-in' is the type of piston rings installed. Plain cast rings will normally break in pretty quickly, while chromed rings will take longer. Apparently(wives tale?) the chrome is harder, and needs the extra friction of mineral to break in within a shorter period of time. Cast rings are softer, and will break in no matter what.
I think most 139 ring sets are plain iron, no chrome, but may be incorrect as I did not buy any name-brand ring sets(for 4Ts anyway). They should break in fine with mineral or synthetic.
In short, I would not worry too much about it. If you find you are using oil(not likely, as the compression rings are the ones that matter), switch back, and drive some more. If you don't have the compression you think you should, ditto. It won't hurt anything.
Old re-ring sets came with instructions(who knew? Chinee no speak instructions) that indicated the quickest and best way to break in new rings was 10 sets of acceleration at full throttle in top gear(no downshift) from 30 to 60, and then let the engine coast back down to 30. Repeat that 9 more times. Drive normally without using full throttle for 500 miles, change oil, and drive like you wish. There was a very thin edge on the rings that would form immediate seal(thin got high PSI for that surface area), and then the chrome remainder would break in over a longer period of time and form the 'life long' seal desired.
What brand of rings did you buy? Did they come with instructions? Except for initial heat of friction from tight fitting rings, it seems not to make a big difference. The ring tension is highest when first installed, and the sufaces take a bit to get 'related' and then they'll slide without as much heat. Avoid getting too hot by running hard, and they won't lose their tension. Overheated rings can lose tension and fail to seal any more.
tom
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Post by magoconnor on Aug 29, 2019 10:59:29 GMT -5
Its a naraku kit, I believe that the rings are coated with somy moly-something, to help protect the rings while breaking in.
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Post by magoconnor on Aug 29, 2019 20:12:36 GMT -5
I have driven about a 1000km now, do you think that the motor is broken in?
The Cht is fairly low around 110 degrees.
And i have varied the throttle all the time, and switched between accerleration and deaccerleration.
I have changed the oil 5 times already (mineral)
If its broken in, then I should be okay right? switching to synthetic.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 30, 2019 12:20:59 GMT -5
As I understand it you are way past 500 miles... 1,000km is 621 miles. Most breakin occurs in the first bit of running, and the added miles are to be sure(IMO) that you don't get overheat condition from too much friction. If you drive 500 miles, over time you will have cycled the temperature multiple times(most people, but of course there are those that ...) and have gotten past the worst friction of new rings, newly scored/honed bore, etc. The worst bits are the first few minutes because of that.
Switch as you see fit, but I see no problem going to synthetic. Personally, my take is these same engines are abused as H over in the East where they are made. Run with the same lube for thousands of miles. Said lube being of questionable origin... and viscosity... and who knows what additives. The locally available lubes put some to shame, and the lube is not changed. These engines still run, carrying mom, dad, a couple kids and the case of biscuits or two they were transporting to market. Hard to kill is an understatement.
Here, we baby these things. I don't. They get SuperTech 15W40, suitable for a compression ignition engine (diesel) and they like it. If they don't, they haven't complained so far. Synthetic oil is for sissies.
Just kidding. Use the best oil you can afford, or the best you want to afford, and change regularly. I won't hurt anything but your bank balance, and not much of that.
tom
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Post by magoconnor on Sept 1, 2019 9:24:38 GMT -5
Hi again unk, thanks for your answear.
I have gone ahead and changed to synthetic.
I got a smoking deal on a crate of high quality synthetic oil, so im set for a looooong time.
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