love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 14, 2019 2:15:48 GMT -5
Ok so got this scooter going again, checking the plug often. I did not want to believe it was lean but it seems to be getting more lean everyday, yet it idles the best its ever had! What gives! All i read is idle will be outa whack and high if air leak causing a lean mix. When i have to stop at a light thr idle just drops so perfect to same each time, i mean beautifully perfect. The jet is i recall a 95 in a 17 mm Arrichie.
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Post by 190mech on Sept 14, 2019 4:10:52 GMT -5
Have you tried adjusting the jet needle richer?Ive found some carbs come with a needle too thick causing a lean condition even with upjetting,,,
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love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 14, 2019 9:09:13 GMT -5
Do you mean the sliding throttle needle? I also could turn the screw in more for moee richness but i already did that and i swear the plug looks hotter.
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love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 14, 2019 14:33:13 GMT -5
Whoops i misspoke, its a 19 mm Arrichie carb.
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love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 15, 2019 12:35:59 GMT -5
I have not adjusted the needle. But the starting up and or not is intermittent.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Sept 16, 2019 10:58:14 GMT -5
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love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 16, 2019 13:30:47 GMT -5
First i want to thank you for taking the time to inform me. I had previously asked around if exhaust leak could cause lean condition amd noone answered appropriately. I had no idea an exhaust leak could be a "intake" leak. But i think that is the problem or one of them. As it has seemingly gotten louder and I repacked it last year too. I will get my sockets out and see if theose long nuts holding pipe have loosened. I also have a couple of those donut gaskets around that apparently go bad easily.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Sept 16, 2019 14:25:09 GMT -5
no problem its what this place is here for. its not as active as it once was but many of the senior members are most likely busy with life and dont get on as much. i take breaks sometimes too due to various reasons but ill try to be more active when i can. if you have some grey or orange silicone laying around a thin and i mean this smear can help with sealing and is a pretty common thing around the motor world to get exhaust that doesnt want to seal sealed. headers on cars for example are impossible to keep sealed for some reason. after you get the new gasket on start and run for 2 mins or so till you get some heat in the pipe. shut it down and let it cool some so you dont burn yourself. recheck nuts or bolts and look for leaks. tighten the mounting bolts for the exhaust to the motor after the exhaust flange is tightened always it really helps get a good seal as the flange can pull flatter to the cylinder. but keep the bolts for the mounting pretty close to snug. like a turn out after breaking loose max enough to wiggle around some to get things lined up. believe me it really helps. i always use bolts for the exhaust flange because ive had nothing but bad luck with those studs and nuts. they either break or come loose for some reason but bolts dont seem to do that for me. they say you shouldnt use bolts because it will wear the threads out going in and out over time but i usually dont keep a cylinder more than 5k miles sometimes a little more if i really like it but i havent lost threads yet. it should be an m8x1.25 thread pitch if youd like to make the switch. make sure it has a flange head or use flat washers to keep even pressure and more surface area. also make sure the bolts will bottom out in the holes by hand but not have a gap larger than your exhaust flange and gasket that way you use as much threads as possible to reduce risk of thread loss. hope this helps in your travels and good luck. a good way to look at the exhaust leak problem is this anything in the combustion chamber or combustion process will lead to problems and the pipe is an extension of the combustion chamber. on a valve motor like a 4 stroke or car a leaking valve will cause major issues and cause that cylinder to not fire or send combustion into the intake and thats really bad. leads to valve burning and then no compression in that cylinder and can damage the heads which means new heads or motor depending on whats more cost effective. 2 strokes will run without exhaust so its hard to know that its giving you an issue unless youve lived with that same motor for a while. also i seen a mention of a start no start issue sometimes or maybe i read wrong. if your getting no starts check your reeds too. those will keep a 2t from starting as well as spit fuel back out the intake more than normal which can also lean it out some. but generally just wont run to do that. they act as the intake valve on these and the expansion pipe acts as the exhaust valve and combustion chamber as well. a leaking cylinder base gasket can also cause some leaning and starting issues too but its pretty obvious as there will be significant wetness like the exhaust leak pictures i linked. these are slight base gasket leaks drive.google.com/file/d/0By2rcNqfITkKQ3U3NGRxYTc3WDQ/view?usp=sharingdrive.google.com/file/d/0By2rcNqfITkKZ3dBYWNOa1FyWk0/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/0By2rcNqfITkKSHhma1ZYSXVDRVk/view?usp=sharingsee the wetness around the base gaskets? a little is acceptable but it gives you an idea.
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love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 16, 2019 22:16:07 GMT -5
Looking at your photos now when I had more time on a big screen . Very interesting and sorry you too have had annoying issue. I was thinking could have a flange on your scoot or mine have been bent somehow causing it not to go flush ? I will look tomorrow under there and see if oil is there like in your pictures . Thanks .
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Post by chehystpewpur on Sept 17, 2019 12:17:46 GMT -5
bent flanges are a possibility but i bought both of the exhaust pipes i used most recently new and they were straight and still are true. some of my issue is self induced and some of it is just the style exhaust gaskets i was able to source locally at the time. i used to use parts for scooters website alot and they have decent parts but most of it is of a lower quality than the parts i buy now so i use scooter tuning in canada mostly. as i made more money and liked my scoot more i spent more on it. then after it stopped being a daily driver and became a toy i splurged as such when i could or wanted to so i started running race type parts and pfs just doesnt carry that stuff. they exhaust gaskets they carry are that squishy metal type and sometimes they blow out in the middle of the gasket. and my old exhaust had a ring type gasket and i hate those things they are always too skinny. i now use more expensive metal squish gaskets with the metal ring in them and have almost no issue with them especially with a splotch of silicone for extra stick. www.scootertuning.ca/en/exhaust-systems-replacement-parts/3000068-exhaust-gasket-motoforce-minarelli.htmlnow i use a gasket like that but its a little diff and i need to find more here soon. drive.google.com/file/d/0By2rcNqfITkKQ2oxMUpiODRESjQ/view?usp=sharingwww.scootertuning.ca/en/exhaust-systems-replacement-parts/3000067-exhaust-gasket-oem-toxik.htmlsquish ring like that only a squish ring goes around that stupid collar. amazing exhaust on a milder or sport motor you dont want to rev to the moon but now it collects dust. with too skinny of a ring that collar will hit the exhaust port on some cylinders and stop it from sealing well. have to have a large exhaust port that is fully round so the collar fits in slightly. my bike is also a weird one that yamaha doesnt fit exactly right on and neither does minarelli exhaust or exhaust specifically for my keeway so i just buy whats the best price and modify the brackets to fit. cheaper and easier in my book. if i can save 100 bux in some cases for a slightly diff exhaust port angle ill take it. glad i could be of assistance and all of my random pictures are getting put to use
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love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 17, 2019 20:46:57 GMT -5
I have alot more to say tomorrow because so many things/ problems are going on with my (darn) scooter , but I saw you wrote you swap out motors at 5k. I have a Airsal bigbore 73.8 kit I believe it is the cast iron , how long should I expect this to last ?
Also I heard about the scooter shop /parts in Canada is the place for the high end quality stuff. I watch these youtube videos of this guy in South Florida (east coast ) has shop called HP Logic , but he is totally in love in with 2 stroke rippin' scooters anyway he always is giving shout outs to them there in Canada. Hes got one "49"CC scooter doing 0 to 60 in 5 seconds or better topping out in the 80s and hes got dual radiator cooling going on . I think that thing revs up past 15k.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Sept 17, 2019 21:41:33 GMT -5
if your talking about scoot swap shop or whatever it is thats a 2 cylinder with twin 70c kits if im not mistaken and yes 0-60 is around 3-5 seconds but a low top speed for that power for sheer accel. and is the company the guy on the east coast talking about the site i linked for the exhaust seals? if so there is a reason he shouts out to them they have some of the best prices with very good customer support and good fast shipping with a huge selection. anything and everything you need for a high end setup without paying someones light bill in mark up when they resell parts. all kinds of deals all the time and they have a rewards program that has netted me over 100 bux off orders in the past. plus you can shop parts by exact scoot to reduce risk of getting the wrong parts like many of the china based parts sales. most of the cylinders ive ran after my initial trying to be conservative have been aluminum due to better cooling and way more power. airsal makes good kits but the price they want could net me a cylinder with more power so ive never bothered with them. used to have my eye on the old airsal t6 racing kits a few times but dollar for dollar its hard to beat athena or stage6 if your on a budget pretty much the same kits they were built in the same warehouse at one point with slight differences. if your kit is cast with 2 piston rings and you use a good quality oil expect somewhere between 7k-10k miles with a proper tune and warm ups before riding hard. 5k from a quality aluminum kit in the same conditions. after those mile marks its usually time for a set of rings and a piston kit and your on the road again. drive.google.com/drive/folders/0By2rcNqfITkKNVhSbHEtX3RVem8?usp=sharingathena sport aluminum kit with 5k miles. bore is almost perfect those lines cant be felt with finger and crosshatch is still intact. sold to another member for dirt cheap and he ran for who knows how long with new piston and ring kit. drive.google.com/drive/folders/0By2rcNqfITkKQUVESUlIOFNaOW8?usp=sharingtop performance trophy kit with a ton of miles that i tried my hand at some old school tricks like cutting some lines in the head to add turbulance in the combustion chamber. it did improve combustion and air and fuel mixture and made it run better along with my boss showed me his had at raising tome ports and made some mistakes as u can see in the cylinder walls but it was fine for a long time after that. aside from those nicks and chipping on the ports when he was showing me what he used to do when porting the cylinder walls were pretty good and a piston and ring kit would have woke it back up again but i wanted more. i have quite a few old cylinder laying around cause i like to test what i drooled over or had my eye on and 30,000 miles is a long time for a scoot so i had time to try many cylinders and a few times to learn why chinese cylinders are only good for a paper weight. i learned why i love premix because ive had multiple oil injection pump failures including 2 quality mikuni ones fail and one chinese one that scrappy dog ripped me off on. i bought and paid for mikuni and got no name chinese one. contacted them and they assured me its just as good but cheaper proce and didnt refund me the price difference. they also sold me broken parts at new part prices and told me they were broken before waiting a week to ship them out so ill never do business with those crooks again if they are even still around. their last stunt cost me an almost 300 dollar cylinder at the time. always get the best quality you can that suits your budget and support the guys that treat you right and youll have your scoot for a long time. i got 20k miles from my stockish engine and another 10k miles off the one i built. the stock one wasnt broken or anything and would have been fine to put a new cylinder on and run for who knows how much longer. i wanted more revs and a stronger crank to start making real power. this crank is rated for 16k rpms and i can hit over 70 mph now even on windy days with a bottom end and gears ready to do much much more. with a new pipe and current cylinder i could most likely squeeze 80-85 but dont need to go those speeds on a scoot. the gears were to prevent wheelies and lower cruising rpms with the stock crank and the gears were put in new motor to keep front end on ground. i can pull between 1.3-1.9 g's on acceleration with a cvt that isnt dialed in all the way a carb thats close to tuned and gears for 120 mph with a mid range cylinder that wants to rev to 14k rpms and a pipe that limits it at 12k. by no means am i an expert so please do not think i am plenty of vets helped me in the early stages of learning these motors vs the larger 2 strokes i spent more time with but many of the questions ive asked later on in my scoot days there are no answers for so i have to blaze my own trail but im here to help with what i can and give you any tools i can to get you where you need to be.
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love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 18, 2019 15:09:18 GMT -5
Ugh today I definitely feel a wobble from that Bell with the bump on it , ughhhhh , I hope it did not bend my crank shaft
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love2ride1111
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Indian Rocks Beach Florida
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Post by love2ride1111 on Sept 18, 2019 15:41:50 GMT -5
I don't want to even ride it the distance to my storage where my compressor is. I need to figure how to pull this Bell with out the impact gun and put the old one on.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Sept 18, 2019 18:57:12 GMT -5
if you dont want to ride it and need to get the nut off without air and have solid rims you could wedge something hefty through a spoke and is pretty long and wrap a rag around it and roll it forward till the bar contacts the cvt case on the top and the other side touching the ground looking something like this -\_ its not pretty and its not perfect but ive had to do it in a bind but would not recommend it unless its a necessity ive also had to remove the lug nut that way as the hose blew out on me as i was filling the compressor to use the impact and had a hole in my tire and needed to get to work the next morning. it will put some stress on your gears and bearings in the case but the road or a stout motor can apply much more force than that. think the cars that blow wheel studs off on launch or the very few people that bent their axle shaft hitting a bump/pothole. you can reverse the order to put the nut back on when your done and maybe will need someone to put some weight on the other side of the bar when tightening as the ground will always be under the bar. if you have a friend also have them hold the brakes for the rear to keep some strain off the rim as to try to not damage it and deff take the nut back off and reseat it as soon as you can get to air again to make sure its tight and not over tight.
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