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Post by markogarelli on Sept 25, 2019 11:11:12 GMT -5
So the screw that holds the exhaust to the cylijder snapped, anyone knows a good way to take it out?
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Post by oldgeek on Sept 25, 2019 11:51:07 GMT -5
So the screw that holds the exhaust to the cylijder snapped, anyone knows a good way to take it out? If you have access to a welder or know someone who has one, weld a nut to the broken stud. Even if it broke off flush with the cylinder it should work. The heat from the welding process helps loosen it. Let it cool before trying to back it out. |
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Rune 75
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 441
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Post by Rune 75 on Sept 25, 2019 16:05:08 GMT -5
I usually drill them out. Start with a small drill bit 2-3mm. Increase 1mm at the time. At some point you'll be able to pick the remains of the boit out. The hole must be drilled perfectly in the center of course.
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Post by repherence2 on Sept 25, 2019 20:25:54 GMT -5
at my work, we use Left Hand drill bits to remove broken fasteners. normally, at some point, the drill bit will "bite", and unscrew the broken fastener out of the threaded hole. you might want to apply some penetrating fluid and let it sit before you use a Left Hand drill. last resort is an e-z-out extractor, but those can break too.
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Post by jloi on Sept 26, 2019 14:31:25 GMT -5
I had good luck with left hand drill bits; started with small and only had to go up one size - it grabbed and turned my head bolt right out .
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Post by markogarelli on Sept 30, 2019 11:33:21 GMT -5
Thanks guys, but i decided to just change the whole cylinder, as i cant do that, i dont have the tools, and a replacment kit is same price as drilling it out.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Oct 13, 2019 9:52:20 GMT -5
We remove broken studs all the time. Especially on small scoots, because wrench animals who have no understanding of torque over tighten them. The cylinder isn't shite if just a broken stud...Many methods for removal. Ask your father...Google. I often cut spade slots, like a flat screwdriver. Then a few taps with a hand held impact driver should break it loose. One note: I never attempt impact removal with a Phillips bit. Flat is always better. Two other helpful things to consider: The broken stud should face up. You should pre-drop some penetrating oil at the base where the stud is broken...(NOT WD-40, ask me why) and give it 10 minutes or so to creep in..., and Consider heating the host cylinder gradually, if the first attempts go bad. More to this, but try cold first. I rarely have to drill, or use an "easy out". That method is OK, if you have a mill, or a stout drill press and can lock your piece. By hand? Not reliable, at all.
I am now curious...How is the cost of a cylinder the same as a near free stud removal? Come...I will show you!
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 13, 2019 12:06:19 GMT -5
Many many methods extolled by many different people. Most times the stud gets snapped when it is being removed rather than tightened. It is a lot harder to do without removing the head and placing it in a vice so the stud bore is vertical. That allows penetrating lubes to seep in place.
A good mix is acetone:atf at a 50:50 ratio. Once mixed, it must remain sealed, shaken before use. Drip some onto the exposed metal,let it soak.
Watch some youtube for strategy and tactics. Drilling is the hardest, as 99% of us can't get the bit to stay on-center. If you do drill, start small and work your way up. Perhaps getting one arc so thin you can collapse it and free up the remainder. Given that you are off-center anyway, just avoid drilling out the threads in the bore. Most 'easy out' reverse thread tools are BRITTLE, and if broken, make further extraction even more difficult. Left hand drill bits are good, as are the 'stubby' broken thread removal tool sets that are two-ended. They are not as brittle, and seem to bite well, and are short enough to avoid breaking. Not perfect, but a bit better than the 'easy out' type. IMO.
tom
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Post by markogarelli on Oct 21, 2019 8:35:00 GMT -5
The guy probably had too much work and wouldn't be bothered with this, and told me price to get tid of me, i took of the exhaust, removed the gasket, and there was a millimeter of the screw visible, enough to grab with pliers, and removce it. Than i just put a new gasket and new screws, all of that for less than a dollar LOL
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Oct 21, 2019 11:54:18 GMT -5
Inspect the replacement cylinder closely to see if the off-center drilling is a standard 'feature' of their product. If so, shop around some more, as what happened will likely re-occur if the drilling/tapping is off-center.
tom
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