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Post by JoeyLowkey on Mar 21, 2021 7:56:40 GMT -5
Hello, can I refill both tubes with oil if I unscrew the Hydraulic cartridge nut(number 1 in the picture)? Peugeot Speedfight 3 front fork
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Post by geoffh on Mar 21, 2021 9:13:14 GMT -5
A quick search leads me to think that item 10 the hydraulic cyl may be a sealed unit and the main part of that set up,there arn,t many speed fight gurus on here maybe you can fish around more European web sites,you seem to have the service manual what does it say.??
Geoff
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Post by aeroxbud on Mar 21, 2021 9:23:56 GMT -5
Possibly. If you undo the nut you should be able to see oil inside the tube. But going by the description in the panel. It looks like they might be like some of the Piaggio forks. These contain no oil and just use grease inside. It's a way of cutting cost.
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Post by JoeyLowkey on Mar 21, 2021 14:20:12 GMT -5
The manual doesn't say anything about changing oil, it only shows how to take out the fork, so I will have to unscrew it and see if there is oil inside it, or just grease. Thanks both of you for replying.
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Post by brucie on Jan 17, 2022 16:29:16 GMT -5
Did you ever get out to removing the fork tubes to see if they could be refilled? I have the same issue with a speedfight 3 where it's failed its MOT with the front forks not offering sufficient dampening. There's hardly any literature on servicing the front forks, and absolutely no parts for sale. The hydraulic cartridge nut is rusted, I don't really want to risk breaking it if the forks aren't serviceable.
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 18, 2022 5:16:01 GMT -5
Peugeot seem to not offer parts online, and want you to go through a dealer. That would be my first port of call. Though I would think these forks are grease filled. The original poster has not been online since April last year. There are a few forks on ebay. But whether the would be much better than yours.
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Post by brucie on Jan 18, 2022 10:10:20 GMT -5
Thanks. I contacted a dealer to see what parts they could supply. It's only the lip seal at the bottom of the fork tube, or the entire fork as a unit. That suggests that it's not a serviceable part, but maybe can be cleaned. It's odd that the only bolt holds a hydraulic cartridge of which there is only one. My thoughts are it's going to be greased to create a seal, creating pressurised air for the dampening.
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Post by brucie on Feb 3, 2022 9:39:23 GMT -5
For those that are interested, I managed to dismantle and service the forks. Couldn't find any parts for it, so decided to see if it could be stripped and cleaned. If you follow the workshop manual that's found online, there's only one bolt at the top of the fork. That bolt is to hold the hydraulic cartridge in place. The fork tubes are held in place by the circlips under the lip seals. The other fork only has the springs and a rubber stop, that's it. I made a mistake when trying to remove the bolt. It was a bit rusty, so used a 17mm spanner to lock it and an impact driver with screw head to loosen it. Couldn't shift it so split the nut. Only when reassembling did I realise that instead of loosening the nut, I was actually tightening it. The screwhead needs to turned as if tightening, schoolboy error. Also found that the nut had a different pitch, so had to get one from a specialist store. The fork springs are greased, which was hardened over time, reducing the dampening. The hydraulic cartridge is also sealed, so can't replace the oil. Cleaned and greased with a white lithium grease which is a bit lighter, then reassembled. Works fine and passed MOT.
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Post by hede on Mar 16, 2022 16:41:14 GMT -5
For those that are interested, I managed to dismantle and service the forks. Hey mate sorry to bother you, but the allen at the bottom on the non cartridge side, does this goes clock or normal anti clock wise to get out? Can't seem to loosen it, and better not overdo it, if I'm tightening. Thanks in advance, much appreciated. 👍🏻
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Post by geoffh on Mar 17, 2022 9:41:47 GMT -5
I have read the Haynes manual a few times it does mention a screw in the end of the stanchion which looks like an Allen key to me,no note of a left hand thread,I would recommend you purchase the manual if you intend to keep the scoot,when I purchase a vehicle I always purchase the Haynes to accompany it.
Geoff
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 17, 2022 17:12:20 GMT -5
The diagram and photo tell me that this fork design has no fluid...The fact that it has a balk ring, (Baulk ring for some)on both the top and bottom is limiting the springs...stopping them, actually. (Bottom is sort of non-adjustable pre-load, top is a damping limiter) Old school common in small dirt bikes and some scooters. The lower being initial load, static load...the upper being the road load. Your diagram above shows something interesting...the lower fork tube shows a groove, or maybe a seal? That would make sense since it rides inside the upper. If that is an o-ring on the lower fork tube, that might be kind of fun. That means it is supposed to trap air as a static compression damper. Air squished between there and the cap. That is where I would play! Certainly, you can freshen up all seals, find a high quality grease that works best at your local temperatures. Measure all four springs so you can balance them side to side or find replacements. Lastly, for now...use the gravity sag method when you reassemble. That is, hang the forks in equal heights before installing the cartridge nuts. This should help balance the air inside. Could be too much! Too stiff or seals blow out easy. However, that should be cheap to figure out. (Your shop manual should cover this) If you can fab up an air release in those caps, you can fine tune to your weight, style and such with out disassembly.
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