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Post by repherence2 on Mar 27, 2022 20:57:37 GMT -5
i seek your input and thoughts on an idea i have. i was reading about side bleed pipes and it was pretty interesting. then one day in the irieLab i thought about side bleeding the whiz-bang pipe. my thought was to cut off the u-turn stinger and seal the end. weld the end can back on. drill a hole in the belly and a hole in the end can. connect the the belly to to end can with a steel tube.
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Post by Lucass2T on Mar 27, 2022 23:48:34 GMT -5
Look up Ixil Twin exhaust. Thise are side bleed pipes for Minarelli, Piaggio etc
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Post by 190mech on Mar 28, 2022 4:10:39 GMT -5
You can try it,was on a forum some years back talking about the center bleed method and one of the elder pipe builders commented "where does the 2stroke mung go?"..Good point,guess a plug could be put in the low part to drain it...I figured if it was a real advantage the factory race teams would have used this... If it's all about looks and confusion get out the power tools now!
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Post by repherence2 on Mar 28, 2022 23:38:20 GMT -5
so i was reading on Aoped Mrmy about side bleeds. there was talks about it being quieter and helping the low end. that led me to the daydream of turning the whiz-bang into a side bleed version. i also remember reading about the oil/spooge build up. that is what made me think about Option #2 with the npt bungs, 90 degree fittings, and the flare tubing. --but as i was writing this, it dawned on me that getting the flared end tube installed in between the fittings would be properly not possible. but i guess i could use straight flare fittings at the bungs and then bend the tube 90 degrees at both ends. i think Option #3 will be welding in the tubing like Option #1 and also welding the bung on the bottom of the belly and install a plug.
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Post by benji on Mar 29, 2022 11:45:11 GMT -5
one of the elder pipe builders commented "where does the 2stroke mung go?"..Good point,guess a plug could be put in the low part to drain it... what if the side bleed was on the bottom of the pipe? Wouldn't it self clear?
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Post by repherence2 on Mar 29, 2022 16:53:09 GMT -5
what if the side bleed was on the bottom of the pipe? Wouldn't it self clear?[/quote] The "Scorpion" style JAD pipe has perforated metal that sandwiches a thin layer of fiberglass insulation to the inner diameter of the end can. So if i place the belly bleed at the bottom, yes the oil/spooge would probably self clear the spooge from the belly, but it would send all that oil into the end can and it would probably build up in the end can and soak the fiberglass with oil.
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Post by 190mech on Mar 29, 2022 19:31:35 GMT -5
If we were riding 4pokes none of this would be an issue!HA-HA,,Ive tried a few center bleed pipes and they were quieter,but not a lot..Disrupting the gas flow and allowing it to cool is what makes a good silencer..Your plan 3 would likely be the best.I usually drill a 3/32" hole at the low point of a baffled can to allow a pressurized spooge dump but not affecting the chamber pressure...
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Post by repherence2 on Mar 29, 2022 23:03:59 GMT -5
If we were riding 4pokes none of this would be an issue!HA-HA,,Ive tried a few center bleed pipes and they were quieter,but not a lot..Disrupting the gas flow and allowing it to cool is what makes a good silencer..Your plan 3 would likely be the best.I usually drill a 3/32" hole at the low point of a baffled can to allow a pressurized spooge dump but not affecting the chamber pressure... thank you for the insight.
another question about capping off the cone. i read about capping it flat, but someone mentioned that it should end in a cone and not a flat cap.
and then i read about dual bleed, and someone wrote about welding a nut on the back cone after the stinger was cut off and then he slotted a bolt so that i would function as and adjustable bleeder. is dual bleed even worth the effort is it better to just K.I.S.S. (keep-it-simple-stupid).
thanks for explaining how "disruption of gas flow and allowing it to cool is what makes a good silencer" i never knew any of that. i appreciate your input and knowledge as well as the input from other members. big thanks to all of the contributors.
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Post by chadbullet on Mar 30, 2022 4:32:57 GMT -5
These are a bit more popular in the moped scene. Depending on where you exist on social media, you might try reaching out to Ryan Crank/ Crankpipes for some input. He builds these all of the time. His instagram if you're on there: www.instagram.com/crankpipes/ or he is also on facebook I believe.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 30, 2022 9:51:19 GMT -5
Hi Repherence2...my old TA125 had both OEM Yamaha pipes and a few sets of center/bottom bleeders. The set that worked the best, had a convergent cone that tapered down to a reversing "cap" at the back end that was just slightly larger than the stinger ID. If I recall correctly, each pipe, (It was a twin) had the stingers at the bottom, but NOT centered in the belly. It was moved slight aft of center, toward the convergent cone. Mine curved to the rear and had small mufflers welded on. (Serviceable, via removable end caps) That was a TA engine with Lectron carbs and the center bleeds that made ~30 h.p. Power came on at 9500 rpm, but could do 14,000. A factory stock TA was 24 h.p.; power on the pipe at 8000 to 12,500. (We had to rebuild our cranks every three races.)
Much like the picture above!
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Post by harleyracer59 on Apr 16, 2022 7:40:19 GMT -5
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