Vitacci Clash 200 EFI Fuel Pump

[xsylus]

Here's the skinny, my scooter was working on December 4th but I noticed when I would start it the clock would reset.  After completing a few arrands that morning I took the battery out to put on the conditioner.   However, the battery immediately registered as full.  So I put in a brand new battery and it worked on the first start, but after that the fuel pump no longer primes the injector.

I confirmed the float pins are getting 5v and the pump pins are getting just over 8v.

I also confirmed I get spark from the spark plug.

I tried three different batteries, but the pump is either dead or there's a controller issue.

At this point I'm trying to find the fuel pump assembly as seen in the attached photo, but none of my searches net an exact match.

[190mech]

Could you just source the pump alone instead of the whole unit? Pump usually comes out easily and there are lots of generic ones out there that could be matched up..

[xsylus]

Dec 13, 2023 17:25:02 GMT -5 190mech said:

Could you just source the pump alone instead of the whole unit? Pump usually comes out easily and there are lots of generic ones out there that could be matched up..

I haven't found a way to remove the pump from that assembly.

[90GTVert]

Contact info for vitacci :
www.vitacci.com/contact-us/

[xsylus]

Dec 16, 2023 7:37:06 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

Contact info for vitacci :
www.vitacci.com/contact-us/

I emailed them several weeks ago and never received a response.  

[snaker]

Just throwing darts here:
The 5v and 8v your seeing, do you have reason to believe they are right?
The 5v I can see, its what shows up on automotive sensor systems.
8v though, seems weird.
The pump is a load and I don't see why that's not 12v (assuming you have a 12v system)

Another thing automotive related is that they often have the + voltage's always at the component and the ground is switched.
If you could test with a ground jumper wire at the component ground pin?
I would disconnect the wire harness ground (unplug, desolder) so as not to backfeed into EFI, just in case.
And be 100% sure that you are dealing with the ground wire pin.

Check the resistance through both the sensor and the motor.
The float should show a low ohm on one end and a high ohm at the other end with a smooth transition in between.
The motor should show a very low ohm, usually a few ohm.

I don't see your rig on the side menu here, but look at other brands with EFI and see if they have similar diagnostics.

[GrumpyUnk]

Given it worked Dec 4, with the old battery, what are the odds it just decided to take a dump on Dec 13. or thereabouts? Low. I would check the wiring, especially any near the battery posts. Some have more than two cables connected to the battery posts. Or there may be a fuse in a plastic holder...
Wish you would take a picture of the other side of the sending unit(pump & gauge combo) to make the pump side viewable.
You can likely unsnap the plastics, and the pump & motor will be more accessible. If jammed by 'something', it is possible to apply voltage in the opposite direction and make the armature turn in the opposite direction.
You can try this with EVERYTHING ELSE DISCONNECTED. Only apply reverse to the two conductors that lead to the pump motor. You should be able to put a fuse inline for safety if concerned, and also possible to put an ammeter in series to know what kind of juice the motor wants to drawy. If it is indeed jammed or locked up, it will draw (in general) a lot more juice than when running, thus the reason for the fuse. You can use a bulb in a socket in series instead of a fuse. A bulb such as a brake light bulb, etc.
If the pump will not turn when connected in reverse or normal, it is likely kaput. Then the dealer or a boneyard... or a generic substitute. My bet is the white plastic snaps together and surrounds the pump assembly and holds it in place, and it can be un-snapped if done carefully. The side you pictured is the pot & wiring that the float uses to indicate fuel level(the sender portion), not the pump side.
tom

[xsylus]

So far I've replaced the fuel pump and ECU. Everything is getting power. Fuel level sensor, electronic starter motor, all the lights and gauge cluster. For some reason the injector just wont inject fuel. I've checked the wiring harness to a degree. I'm leary about unwrapping it as I feel like I would just end up making things worse.

[aeroxbud]

Any good motorcycle shop should be able to check the fuel injector for you. That about the only thing you haven't checked.

[xsylus]

Jan 31, 2024 4:10:14 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

Any good motorcycle shop should be able to check the fuel injector for you. That about the only thing you haven't checked.

Unfortunately none of the local shops I've contacted will look at it.   Even if I could find one, I have no way of transporting the scooter to them.   

[FrankenMech]

Is it the pump or the injector that is the problem?

Are you able to pull the injector and take it to a shop or automotive parts dealer for testing? Don't tell them it is for a scooter.

The pump should run for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on then shut off. Timing for that is controlled by the ECU. The ECU grounds the pump to make it run. The pump will have power to it under various conditions. Sometimes it takes a sharp impact with a screwdriver to make it run if a pump winding or brush is going bad.

[xsylus]

I replaced the pump and ECU and I took the fuel line off and put one end in a container. I don't hear the pump making a noise but some fuel does run out of the hose. My guess is that the pump is getting power just not the right amount to fully engage.

I'm not a mechanic and am apprehensive about trying to test anything electrical near the fuel tank.


I would think that this has to be electrical since it started with me swapping in a brand new, fully charged battery.

[GrumpyUnk]

Do you have a schematic for your machine? Most systems use a fuel pump relay to send power to the pump. Most relays are controlled by the ECM. Some will use key ON power to energize the relay. A schematic would show if you were equipped with a relay.
You could apply 12V from the battery to the terminal on the fuel pump to see if it will run. You should get more than 8v at the fuel pump. That is too low for 12V and too high for 5V. (IMO)
The injector will likely do nothing when power is applied if the fuel pressure is low or lacking. You might hear a click when power is applied indicating the injector is trying to open the pintle valve and allow fuel flow.
If a battery will provide enough power to crank the engine(rotate the crankshaft) then it should have enough to operate the fuel pump. It would fail that if the relay or ground or power wires were not connected fully or the relay broken.
Good luck.
tom

[xsylus]

Thanks again for all the pointers. I was able to get it running again!