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Post by Wrenchturner on Feb 22, 2024 12:27:08 GMT -5
Hey everyone, I decided after becoming a DIY mechanic for cars that I should branch out. I bought a scooter, specifically A 49cc Vitacci Solana (I know, bad decision lol). Looking forward to both riding it and working on it.
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 22, 2024 19:40:40 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum! What work do you have planned for the scoot?
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Post by Wrenchturner on Feb 23, 2024 0:38:34 GMT -5
As I am unfamiliar with scooter maintenance or modification, I opted to have it assembled before receiving the scooter. I'm going to do a thorough teardown over the course of a week to see if I want to change vac lines, or beef up the carburetor with a high performance replacement. Basic stuff, just to familiarize myself with the inner workings.
Maybe later I will try my hand at making it more powerful.
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 23, 2024 7:06:45 GMT -5
That's a good place to start!
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Post by aeroxbud on Feb 23, 2024 15:48:22 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum
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Post by chehystpewpur on Feb 29, 2024 7:36:54 GMT -5
Hey everyone, I decided after becoming a DIY mechanic for cars that I should branch out. I bought a scooter, specifically A 49cc Vitacci Solana (I know, bad decision lol). Looking forward to both riding it and working on it. hey from north of flint. theres not alot of members on here from our "great" state. but im here to help where i can. i have also done what you have with great success. the nice thing about the scoot man. its an hr to do anything on it. just remember that. literally almost everything on it is just 4 bolts. wanna pull the cylinder 4 nuts wanna pull the intake 4 bolts wanna put the plastic each piece is roughly 4 screws. aint nuthin to it. and it makes you better with cars too as the tuning and learning is alot cheaper. for 200-400 dollars you can build a monster vs the cost of an oil change... |
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Post by Wrenchturner on Mar 2, 2024 18:01:10 GMT -5
Hey everyone, I decided after becoming a DIY mechanic for cars that I should branch out. I bought a scooter, specifically A 49cc Vitacci Solana (I know, bad decision lol). Looking forward to both riding it and working on it. hey from north of flint. theres not alot of members on here from our "great" state. but im here to help where i can. i have also done what you have with great success. the nice thing about the scoot man. its an hr to do anything on it. just remember that. literally almost everything on it is just 4 bolts. wanna pull the cylinder 4 nuts wanna pull the intake 4 bolts wanna put the plastic each piece is roughly 4 screws. aint nuthin to it. and it makes you better with cars too as the tuning and learning is alot cheaper. for 200-400 dollars you can build a monster vs the cost of an oil change... Since we're roughly in the same area I have one question. What did/do you do to weather-proof your scooter? I plan to ride it until fall ends, but cosidering MI is known for its' bipolar weather, I have concerns  |
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 6, 2024 11:29:12 GMT -5
Kansas has bi-polar weather also. For weather proofing a scoot use real 100% gas, the Asian/foreign scoots are not made for ethanol gas. Asian scoot electrical systems are a real weak point, cover all the electrical connections with spark plug grease. Take the connectors apart, check to make sure wires are crimped and retained properly (give them a pull) squeeze in grease, put them back together, fill the wire entrances with grease. Keep the scoot washed to remove road salt. Blow it dry with a leaf blower. Perform normal oil & grease changes. Always get rid of the factory fills of oil and grease before riding or ASAP per PDI directions. Check all fasteners for tightness. Blue Loctite is required on some although I use a lot of the green penetrating Loctite where possible. Use caution with the green Loctite on small fasteners like body screws, like around #8 American size and smaller (and equivalent metric sizes), etc. It can make them impossible to disassemble without ruining them. The rubber vacuum and fuel lines used are subject to cracking. I avoid paper fuel filters, I use Kohler small engine plastic mesh fuel filters. The rubber coated intake manifolds used with carbs will crack, replace them with billet aluminum units. The EFI equipped scoots are better if you keep the electrics from corroding with that spark plug grease. Since you work on cars I suspect you know not to re-use O-rings and why so replace them...
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Post by chehystpewpur on Mar 6, 2024 13:59:38 GMT -5
honestly as horrible as it sounds man i dont do anything to it. i havent rode it much since being back from florida but now that life isnt so busy i have been using it whenever i can. when in fl it rained alot so any grime pretty much went away. up here i dont ride it when its rainy just a warm weather toy same as with the nice car. ive had my hands on alot of the connections on it and changed sealed or taped them well and i left most of the plastics so nothings really exposed to get damaged other than the stator/flwheel. i have a keeway and they actually built a nice platform. the frame was even coated well so its still pretty much protected. this thing has 35k miles on it when shes ready to go im not gonna stop it. mainly just keep it clean. and drain the carb bowl when you park it for long periods. i can always go out and fire mine as soon as i get the bowl filled. and dont have to clean it ever. its been maybe 2-3 years since the last clean and that was from leaving gas in it.
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Post by Wrenchturner on Mar 7, 2024 11:13:50 GMT -5
Kansas has bi-polar weather also. For weather proofing a scoot use real 100% gas, the Asian/foreign scoots are not made for ethanol gas. Asian scoot electrical systems are a real weak point, cover all the electrical connections with spark plug grease. Take the connectors apart, check to make sure wires are crimped and retained properly (give them a pull) squeeze in grease, put them back together, fill the wire entrances with grease. Keep the scoot washed to remove road salt. Blow it dry with a leaf blower. Perform normal oil & grease changes. Always get rid of the factory fills of oil and grease before riding or ASAP per PDI directions. Check all fasteners for tightness. Blue Loctite is required on some although I use a lot of the green penetrating Loctite where possible. Use caution with the green Loctite on small fasteners like body screws, like around #8 American size and smaller (and equivalent metric sizes), etc. It can make them impossible to disassemble without ruining them. The rubber vacuum and fuel lines used are subject to cracking. I avoid paper fuel filters, I use Kohler small engine plastic mesh fuel filters. The rubber coated intake manifolds used with carbs will crack, replace them with billet aluminum units. The EFI equipped scoots are better if you keep the electrics from corroding with that spark plug grease. Since you work on cars I suspect you know not to re-use O-rings and why so replace them... Thanks for the tips. I'll definitely put the replacement of the intake manifold on my important list asap. |
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 7, 2024 14:37:37 GMT -5
To fix dirty carbs use a good solvent soak with seafoam in a near empty gas tank. Open the petcock and drain the carb until the solvent starts to come through will help clean the carb. Just let it sit and soak for a few days. Afterwards a drain of the solvent and fill with fresh gas will solve most gummy carb situations. -Works on most old cars/trucks with carbs also. The solvent and fresh gas will also solve some leaky carbs by swelling the gaskets back up.
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