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Post by Dj Chocolate on May 3, 2014 4:19:30 GMT -5
hey jansen
i didn't have time to read all the replies of your post but i had that same problem i see you said you changed your cdi box also please be sure you bought a 2 stroke or 2t cdi box instead of a 4 stroke or 4t box bec that happened with me when i send a friend to buy one.they look the same but it functions diff it will idle but no pick-up because of the 4 tac signal its sending to the spark coil i bought the right 2t cdi box and walla problem solved!!! so if it's still not fixed. check that!!
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Post by Dj Chocolate on May 3, 2014 4:29:21 GMT -5
and to the sound i heard in your video i think its exactly that 2 stroke cdi sends a signal to the coil so that the coil can send that high current to the plug for it to spark, and that happens at the second stroke , where 4t sends a spark at the forth stroke thats the big diffrence with the 2t and the 4 t cdi the 4t ci will make your bike kinda idle but won't go to a higher rpm when accelarated so if u still have that problem, go back and find out if the cdi you bought is for 2t or 4t
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Post by 90GTVert on May 3, 2014 11:59:43 GMT -5
DJ!
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Post by drdavid on Dec 29, 2016 11:07:39 GMT -5
Did anybody solve this problem?
I have a Kymco SX 50cc has just done 58 miles in 15 years !
It will start, idle but not rev. Have done the usual
Drained tank,replaced fuel,replaced fuellines with clear plastic ones Changed Bistarter Checked for vacuum Changed and regapped plug Changed HT lead Dismantles carb and blown out all jets Checked for air leaks Replaced air filter Am Porsche mechanic but cannot solve this 49cc problem
Any further advice and how did you solve it in November 2013
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Post by pinkscoot on Dec 29, 2016 12:29:21 GMT -5
Have you played with needles and jets? If all is stock it shouldn't be a problem but they may have been changed at some point. Here is a good place to start FAQ's about Rich/lean
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Post by drdavid on Dec 29, 2016 13:28:39 GMT -5
Since the scooter has done just 58 miles (I have started it every 2 weeks for over 12 years and had it tested every year(I am in the UK) ) I have not changed any parts in the Carb except the O rings when I cleaned it. There is a good spark and I can see (since I changed the fuel lines to 'see thru') that there is a good flow from the petcock.Like the person on the forum in 2013, I have been doing these things for 40 years but sometimes there is one thing that defeats you. Somebody out there must have had the same problem with the same Kymco
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 30, 2016 10:12:50 GMT -5
OK, so you can see fuel getting to the carb via the clear lines; but have you checked to see if the bowl is filling and if fuel is getting to the engine? If the bowl has a drain, you can open that to see if fuel comes out. If the spark plug never gets wet, that could mean no fuel is making it's way to the cylinder. Try a few drops of gas or even a quick shot of starting fluid or carb cleaner in the cylinder and see if it will fire then. Another option I use is to place an unlit propane torch in the inlet of the airbox and hold the throttle open a little when I try to start. If it starts on some other fuel, you know you need to investigate that area further.
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Post by drdavid on Jan 2, 2017 4:51:51 GMT -5
Thank you for the tips
I have checked the drain screw to the float bowl and there is adequate fuel. The plug is fine when tested out of the cylinder (good spark). The bistarter has the correct ohmage . Still will not even start now My next steps are
**There is no voltage coming in to the bistarter when the ignition is on although the battery is showing 12.5 volts, do I have to pull the front brake to get voltage to the bistarter? ** I tried quick start fluid directly in to the cylinder and even heated the plug in the oven, still nothing, but is it possible that the starter fluid has lowered the compression ...I am going to check with compression gauge
Does anybody have any other ideas? Thank you
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 2, 2017 10:41:13 GMT -5
**There is no voltage coming in to the bistarter when the ignition is on although the battery is showing 12.5 volts, do I have to pull the front brake to get voltage to the bistarter? No. Most are supplied by the stator without interrupts. The enricher heats up when receiving power from the running engine and then closes off a passage to stop enrichment.
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Post by drdavid on Jan 2, 2017 12:58:21 GMT -5
Thank you, I can eliminate that. Compression > 180 psi so not that.....
What about the Reed valve, seems like I will need to get replacement bolts and gasket as well as correct valve if I look at that ...but could it be the problem? Running out of ideas.
Thanks to all for their suggestions With the Porsche I can just plug in an get a diagnostic dashboard...wish Kymco had this ....
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Post by 190mech on Jan 2, 2017 14:55:55 GMT -5
Is the stock airbox installed with the proper stock filter element?If so and you are sure there is no restriction in the main jet/needle jet circuit,then there is a slim chance you are loosing spark as revs build,a timing light may help with troubleshooting that...
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Post by Dj Chocolate on Jan 2, 2017 22:11:13 GMT -5
i know bi a fact that if ur bistarter is not working, which is like a choke for the engine to start up it will not start thats why i always change to a manual choke carb ur problem is probably there try priming the carb closing off the intake side of the carb whiles starting , so u will have a idea iff you have fuel running in and play with ur hands to make some air pass treu like what you will do on a carb car engine and look if it will start up thats what i mostly will try
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Post by drdavid on Jan 9, 2017 12:06:02 GMT -5
Guys
Thanks for all the suggestions Changed the reed valve and it's the same, checked the air filter...no issues
It starts now and runs for about 4-5 minutes then dies (I have tried simply idling and keeping the revs up) Last resort am going to change the bistarter again to official Kymco one not OEM..... something happens after 5 minutes really sounds like the bistarter!!!
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Post by 2stroked on Jan 28, 2017 15:35:58 GMT -5
Old topic I know but someone sometime might get some good from this....
My ETon acted this way for a while. A few different times actually. I have a Homelite XL-12 doing this same thing right now.
The first time my ETon did this, the reeds were leaking. Then, it happened after a soft seize and it was the rings causing it. Once, an exhaust stud backed out and it would run great til warm then act like this. Even ran uber rich with a small case leak the first time I swapped a crank.
This saw right now, I can't explain. New seals, rings, all gaskets, new points, coil, plug, two fresh rebuilt carbs, both carbs run fine on an identical saw. I honed the cylinder and blocked the case surface. I examined and replaced the reed as well.
I know, saws and scooters, = apples and oranges. However, this is the first place I look whenever I have a two stroke problem....
Oh the saw has a new muffler as well. New old stock. Same as all new pieces on it. The points and coil system works on the other engine as well.... I'm at a complete loss.
When folks come here for help, it would be awesome if they would post their final results, even if the right answer didn't come from here. Maybe that way some else would be helped at a later time.
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Post by gsx600racer on Jan 28, 2017 16:32:41 GMT -5
Old topic I know but someone sometime might get some good from this.... My ETon acted this way for a while. A few different times actually. I have a Homelite XL-12 doing this same thing right now. The first time my ETon did this, the reeds were leaking. Then, it happened after a soft seize and it was the rings causing it. Once, an exhaust stud backed out and it would run great til warm then act like this. Even ran uber rich with a small case leak the first time I swapped a crank. This saw right now, I can't explain. New seals, rings, all gaskets, new points, coil, plug, two fresh rebuilt carbs, both carbs run fine on an identical saw. I honed the cylinder and blocked the case surface. I examined and replaced the reed as well. I know, saws and scooters, = apples and oranges. However, this is the first place I look whenever I have a two stroke problem.... Oh the saw has a new muffler as well. New old stock. Same as all new pieces on it. The points and coil system works on the other engine as well.... I'm at a complete loss. When folks come here for help, it would be awesome if they would post their final results, even if the right answer didn't come from here. Maybe that way some else would be helped at a later time. Not knocking your expertise, is the piston facing the right direction ? How about fuel lines and the pickup in the tank ? Im just guessing, seeing those things were not mentioned. I hear ya, it sucks when the same parts work on another saw.
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