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Post by usmcdoc on Apr 25, 2014 6:35:58 GMT -5
Glad you got it worked out Doc. I dread the day I have electrical issues. It just isn't my thing. Dave thanks! I guess the bottom line and lesson I learned here is that..if and when you have no stator or R/R readings..if they are weak or erratic or it appears you have a ground issue. FIRST pull the power wire from your coil...then retest everything. Had I known that it would have saved me 6 hours of head scratching n cussing..lol. Now it makes me wonder how many folks that post here..have swapped in a new Stator..R/R or both and still had the same issues such as.. Rough running..low or no electrical output...erratic electrical accessories...erratic electrical readings or unknown ground issues. I just hope this will help others in the future. Had someone told me to pull the ignition coil power wire and remove the cap from the spark plug...then retest by cranking the engine..I would have thought they were nuts.. But typical for me is that when I have Scoot issues it never seems to be something common or typical. I have this theory that...the Chinese are secretly using me as a Guinea Pig or Lab Rat... Attention China..please stop messing with me... .... Glenn
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Post by 2TDave on Apr 25, 2014 7:13:37 GMT -5
It's all about passing it on! I have the same Chinese fillings in my mouth as you so they can monitor me and laugh as I pull my hair out!
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Post by usmcdoc on Apr 25, 2014 8:49:06 GMT -5
It's all about passing it on! I have the same Chinese fillings in my mouth as you so they can monitor me and laugh as I pull my hair out! Come to think of it..I did get a filling in a back tooth when we were in Taiwan. Didn't look or feel like the normal Amalgam we use here in the states.. Bet they bought the thing from Silicon Valley California... Well..from now on when in doubt about an electrical issue.. I say pull the ignition coils power wire and the cap from the spark plug..THEN test with a multimeter again. This is nuts cause on my own Scoot last week the Stator did fry. Adly wanted $139.00 for one as it is proprietary??!! Got to looking and it is just a 6 pole GY6 125 stator with Minarelli connectors and a 6 pole GY6 flywheel. So I bought a $12.00 GY6 125 6 pole stator from Ebay..soldered my Minarelli connectors to it..and it works well.(Cause that is exactly what they did to make their proprietary stator) So I did save about a $120.00..but then this guys electrical mess..wow. Then find out it was soooo damn simple. I wasn't even gonna post what I did or found on his..cause I feared somebody would say.. "ya mean ya didn't check all that stuff?".. So simple yet took me 6 hours with my multimeter..and taking stuff apart looking for a short...
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 25, 2014 9:33:12 GMT -5
True gremlins, evil though they are, like to hide in plain sight. They know we will never look for them there. Glad ya got it fixed.
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Post by 2strokd on Apr 25, 2014 10:44:33 GMT -5
Maybe I missed something here as I am guilty of not reading through thoroughly, but was this just a bad cap causing all this? Yet it still got enough spark through for the scoot engine to run well.? This would be a stumper...
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Post by usmcdoc on Apr 25, 2014 13:28:27 GMT -5
Maybe I missed something here as I am guilty of not reading through thoroughly, but was this just a bad cap causing all this? Yet it still got enough spark through for the scoot engine to run well.? This would be a stumper... The engine would run great..but the lights and signals would go haywire and you could not get a reading from the stator or R/R....with a multimeter..the multimeter would just flash random numbers. Even if you ONLY touched the black wire from the meter to ANY place on the frame or engine that would happen.If you put the black to ground and the red to a hot wire it still did the same. The cap had to be one of those that ground to the cylinder head.. The standard plastic ones would not work as they caused to much interference and were bleeding in to ground?. Not any type of plastic I tried(all were new)..none of them would allow the lights and blinkers to work due to interference... or the high tension voltage was seeking ground. The non resistor plug(3 new ones) would not work even with the grounding type/shielded cap. They sort of did but the interference was intermittent. When I went to the shielded plug cap and the resistor plug all the lights and blinkers worked without 'twitching' and being possessed of sorts. Also I forgot to mention the 'performance' coil had to be mounted so the plug wire was facing furthest from the frame..or it would cause the multimeter to 'flip out' and just flash random numbers. Ya got me..as to why. Just saying what I found..what fixed it..and showed a few pics of what caps worked and what did not.
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