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Post by 190mech on Jun 4, 2016 16:30:58 GMT -5
I'd give an 85 or so a careful try..Get happy with the main jet,then try some jet needle adjustments..
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 13, 2016 22:33:09 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 14, 2016 8:17:07 GMT -5
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 14, 2016 22:51:59 GMT -5
Going tomorrow to DMV to get tag so I can legally start tuning this thing.  Needle clip was on the middle position. I guess I will try an 85 MJ next. I'm assuming at some point the WOT will get too lean and the temps will start rising rapidly? 170F WOT at a 90 MJ seems like i'm way rich? I read posts about wanting to get WOT in the low 300s. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 15, 2016 6:29:44 GMT -5
If 170F is after you've given it a few to heat up, that's cold WOT. That's more like an idle temp. If I was only seeing 170 WOT, I'd expect to have a wet plug and sputtering ride or an issue with the gauge.
Lean will usually run hot. Lean can run cool, but that never seems to happen for me. I think you need to get further from peak power for it to run cooler since you aren't burning as much fuel or converting as much energy.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 15, 2016 10:59:50 GMT -5
"If 170F is after you've given it a few to heat up, that's cold WOT. That's more like an idle temp."
What do you mean by this?
I should test WOT temp from a cold start and just going WOT?
EDIT: also tested tire pressure, got 21PSI from both, manual says front/rear should be 25/30. thinking that 21->30 PSI for rear will increase gearing some.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 15, 2016 11:31:34 GMT -5
I meant my scoots idle temps are close to your WOT temp. Most of mine idle around 160-200F. I'm not encouraging immediate hard operation. I do it too much, but it's best to let things warm up. CHT does not respond immediately, so if I'm saying I see say 300-350F CHT it means I've held it WOT till it leveled out to some degree or at least a mile.
Not sure that you'll notice a lot of effective gearing help with 30psi, but under-inflated tires will slow you down. 32psi is the lowest I run any of my scoot tires.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 15, 2016 11:37:12 GMT -5
that's the thing, my idle is at like 190s. If I go WOT it goes down and settles in the 180s, this is for 1/2 mile, maybe a mile stretches.
I'm pretty sure the temp meter is accurate... even if it were off by some offset it still means my idle is higher than WOT.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 15, 2016 11:57:07 GMT -5
I've never had one run cooler at WOT than idle. Even if it ran lean at idle and rich at WOT, it should still go up quite a bit. I can't see how it's not sputtering rich to run 170F in a 1/2 mile all out if the gauge is accurate. When I ride in the teens and twenties they run hotter than that. I can't see why it would cool when it's at high revs burning more mixture and converting more of that chemical energy from the fuel into heat at WOT vs poor efficiency at low speeds idling along.
At any rate, try a smaller main and we should know a little more. I'd advise a quick look at the plug too. No need for in depth reading at this point. I'd just be seeing if it's wet or black or not.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 15, 2016 18:15:59 GMT -5
Spark PlugHere's a pic of the plug before I swapped to 85MJ swapped to 85MJ and temps were a little cooler, 158F at WOT. It was like 100F outside earlier but when I tested it was a bit cooler so I think thats why it is cooler. My idle is really strange and idles all over the place seemingly randomly. Also mid-throttle there is a weakish spot that loses a little power.
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Post by 'O'Verse on Jun 15, 2016 18:41:31 GMT -5
Be careful I just had the same experience. Low cht temps. High rpms. Turned out I had an air leak at my choke. Rubber o ring gasket wasn't sealing. Idle was all over. Changed head gaskets. Re sealed everything not knowing. Not saying that's exactly what's up with yours. But be on the lookout for a possible air leak. Like 90 said. My bike was running cooler with an air leak.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 15, 2016 18:46:07 GMT -5
Be careful I just had the same experience. Low cht temps. High rpms. Turned out I had an air leak at my choke. Rubber o ring gasket wasn't sealing. Idle was all over. Changed head gaskets. Re sealed everything not knowing. Not saying that's exactly what's up with yours. But be on the lookout for a possible air leak. Like 90 said. My bike was running cooler with an air leak. that seems to make sense as to why it is running cool. I'll see if I can find anything. |
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 15, 2016 20:04:02 GMT -5
It died when I sprayed it near the choke/throttle slide so I'm thinking it's one of those two gaskets? Gonna take it apart tomorrow and look.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 15, 2016 22:00:30 GMT -5
Here's the plug after I put the 85 in and ran it a few miles. one with flash one without Pic 1Pic 2Is there supposed to be a gasket here? Pic 3also checked the choke and it looked fine. put in a 80 MJ in there gonna check and see how it runs tomorrow. think its running rich because I'm nearly out of the gallon of gas I put into it and have just barely 30 miles logged on that gallon! (yikes) |
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Post by 'O'Verse on Jun 15, 2016 23:01:23 GMT -5
Yes there's usually a gasket that's in one piece around both slide and screw hole. You have an electric choke. Shouldn't be a leak problem there. Mines a manual pull choke. That seals with an O ring when closed. O ring shrunk. Or plastic expanded....anyway spraying it with carb cleaner should increase your rpms if there was a leak.
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