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Post by Elektrey on Sept 28, 2014 22:36:20 GMT -5
Thought I would make a build thread to keep all my stuff in one place.  Backstory: First scooter, Paid $300 for it. Didn't come with a carburetor but had <800 miles on it and looked brand new. Bought an aftermarket carb and air filter to replace the air box. currently still tuning. Hopefully I can find out if this thing is restricted via RPM or gears. Once I get the WOT tune right I will check. Mods: Free flow air filter with custom cover that I adjust air-flow with 19mm PZ19 China carb with 75MJ. So far I've hit 43mph indicated (actual speed is 6mph less) at 8k RPM on level ground no wind. |
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Post by moofus02 on Sept 28, 2014 23:09:45 GMT -5
That mj might be small with an open filter
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by Elektrey on Sept 29, 2014 13:07:43 GMT -5
That mj might be small with an open filter Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards I have a cover that restricts air flow, I am still tuning it. I had about 2-3 square inches of surface area open on the filter and it was running rich top end so I am just opening it up a little more. |
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Post by x7rocks on Sept 29, 2014 13:36:16 GMT -5
If its reading rich with a 75 then your coil may be failing.
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Post by Elektrey on Sept 29, 2014 17:03:34 GMT -5
I understand that the gas coming out is fixed at 75, but the air filter I on is designed to allow a certain amount of airflow therefore controlling the afr.
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Post by 2TDave on Sept 29, 2014 18:02:22 GMT -5
Why not just do it the right way and tune the main jet? I hate to think about what your going to do when your Gatorade bottle breaks from the sun and fuel and your miles from home with a seized cylinder.
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Post by Elektrey on Sept 29, 2014 18:09:54 GMT -5
Why not just do it the right way and tune the main jet? I hate to think about what your going to do when your Gatorade bottle breaks from the sun and fuel and your miles from home with a seized cylinder. Well for one it keeps the noise level down over just opening it up and I don't really think that will happen, it's on there pretty good. I got the air to fuel mixture nearly perfect. Was a little rich at WOT but once it warmed up it was *almost* there. Added a tiny bit more air; should give it that edge. Went 43mph and opened CVT. Good news!  Sharpie is still left, meaning, it is unrestricted. |
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Post by 2TDave on Sept 29, 2014 18:19:14 GMT -5
Oh yeah it will happen. That plastic is going to break down and crack from heat, uv rays and gas. If your worried about noise than run the stock air box or an enclosed pod filter like a Doppler alien eye.
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Post by Elektrey on Sept 29, 2014 18:40:52 GMT -5
Oh yeah it will happen. That plastic is going to break down and crack from heat, uv rays and gas. If your worried about noise than run the stock air box or an enclosed pod filter like a Doppler alien eye. Honestly I will probably replace it with a more permanent solution before it does start to deteriorate. Don't know about the UV rays because it is in the shade most of the time, its pretty well under the scoot body. Also not sure about gas because it is on the air intake and the outside of the filter at that. |
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Post by Elektrey on Oct 1, 2014 19:25:32 GMT -5
Well after adding a little more air I think I got it perfectly in tune. It ran the fastest it ever has today at an indicated 45mph on flat ground no wind. Checked the sharpie mark I put on the variator and there was about 0.5cm or so left on it. Not sure if that means its restricted or not, really dont know how far up the side of the half the belt should ride. Belt is in perfect condition so it should ride the highest it should go just don't know how high that is. Had to move garage door opener to somewhere stationary as me shutting the seat so many times was knocking it off the underside of the seat.  Oh and the whole idle issues are back. When I started it the RPMs started rising uncontrollably so I turned it 1/4 more rich and it doesn't do that but it hardly idles and dies shortly after coming to a stop. I have the idle RPM screw set to the max. Is it possible it's too high and therefore getting too much gas or something of the like, causing it to accelerate out of control? really don't know. |
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Post by 2TDave on Oct 1, 2014 19:38:19 GMT -5
5 mm is about right for travel on a stock cvt setup. Sometimes with spacing and other tuning you can get it higher. Your carb isn't in tune.
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Post by Elektrey on Oct 1, 2014 19:54:13 GMT -5
5 mm is about right for travel on a stock cvt setup. Sometimes with spacing and other tuning you can get it higher. Your carb isn't in tune. Yeah I've come to the conclusion that the washer is removed and it is in fact unrestricted. What do you mean by its not in tune? Just the idle is whats giving me trouble. |
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Post by 2TDave on Oct 1, 2014 20:28:21 GMT -5
The idle screw should not be turned all the way in. It only goes in far enough to just raise the slide slightly. By richening it you are choking it with fuel to get the idle under control. It's the wrong way to go about it. It's like regulating air to the carb instead of tuning the main jet. A carb that is in tune will work on all three circuits without issue.
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Post by Elektrey on Oct 1, 2014 20:38:53 GMT -5
The idle screw should not be turned all the way in. It only goes in far enough to just raise the slide slightly. By richening it you are choking it with fuel to get the idle under control. It's the wrong way to go about it. It's like regulating air to the carb instead of tuning the main jet. A carb that is in tune will work on all three circuits without issue. Yeah I know that richening it is the wrong way to go but I haven't figured out an actual fix. and I don't see why regulating air to the carb instead of tuning the main jet is the wrong way either: it's basically what the stock air box does. I will turn down the idle screw to see if I can get the idle in tune. |
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Post by niz76 on Oct 2, 2014 22:57:53 GMT -5
I came across this while investigating a possible scoot purchase. Thought you might find some of the info useful. It's about the Morini motors:
Morini engine are installed in vehicles of different manufacturers.
The engine is used of the following manufacturers: Atala, Derbi, Malaguti, Italjet, Pegasus and Suzuki.
Due to the unconventional engine architecture, motors of these series are not real power giants.
To achieve an acceptable tuning result, changes to the crankshaft and valve block is necessarily.
The original crankshaft can, because of their small webs (low compression), not supply the cylinder with enough fresh mixture.
Due to the very low seat of the 3 flap reed block, the boost port to the cylinder is not used optimally, resulting in significant power loss. The basic equipment in the engine tuning of these engines in any case, is to use a BGM or Malossi HPC full circle crankshaft and a big valve reed block.
Lower rail and similarities
In principle there are only small differences between these three types.
Belt: Due to the two lengths of the motor housing, there are two belts of different lengths.
Cylinders: There are liquid-cooled an air-cooled cylinders.
Transmission: Due to various wheel sizes there are used different transmission in the different vehicles.
Ignition: Franco Morini did use two different ignitions in the engines, both have 4-coils, one has a diameter of 79.3 mm, the other a diameter of 84.4 mm.
There are various other engines that are built on the basis of these three types of these engines. Some parts can also be interchangeable, but not all. Some shortcomings of the Morini engine have been improved in these variants. (Crankshaft and Mebranblock)
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