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Post by Elektrey on Jun 15, 2016 23:24:26 GMT -5
Yeah I was spraying it with starter fluid.
gonna check again and see if it still does that tommorow and then possibly make a gasket for it.
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Post by Jwhood on Jun 16, 2016 0:11:56 GMT -5
Good to see ya back trey!!
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 19, 2016 19:17:45 GMT -5
Put the 80 MJ in it and it was bogging real hard mid throttle and sometimes WOT. Started without needing throttle though.
When I got back from a short test ride I noticed that I had tightened my UNI air filter so hard it broke the rubber off of it. New one on the way, gonna wait for that to get here to test it.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 24, 2016 15:01:48 GMT -5
New filter came in today.
Here's what I've gathered and I don't know what to make of it.
80 MJ: WOT fine mid-throttle bogs hard
85 MJ: WOT fine mid-throttle bogs a bit
90 MJ: WOT fine mid-throttle fine
and no matter what it seems like the idle is too high after moving. e.g. go 50mph and stop and the idle is up at 4k. Go 35mph and stop idle is at 3k. Eventually with blipping the throttle or just waiting it will drop back down to 2k.
The idle circuit is too rich I think? means that the idle screw is turned in too high so when it runs not on the idle circuit it wants to come down not as far as it should in RPMs? but idle screw turned so high so it will idle even that rich?
No idea what to do. Get a pilot jet kit? upjet and put the needle further in (lean)?
Also should I go up one more jet to 95 to be on the rich side?
and the idle air mixture screw is as lean as possible.
temps are like 140 idle 150-160 mid throttle and 170s WOT. still don't know what's going on with that. Can't be that rich WOT because I'm getting like 52mph on flat land.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 24, 2016 16:07:34 GMT -5
I'd tune the main jet solely for 3/4-WOT operation first. It sounds like the rest may be lean to me. When you put a bigger jet in, the mid-throttle bog improves, so it probably needs a richer needle setting. Hanging idle is usually lean too. The needle may help that some, but readjust the idle mixture after the jet and needle swap and see what you can do.
Your CHTs still mean nothing to me. As I said before, I can't see how you run so cold WOT without sputtering and a wet/washed spark plug. Gotta be the wrong temp.
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Post by 190mech on Jun 24, 2016 16:47:38 GMT -5
Gotta agree with Brent,CHT is lying...bigger pilot jet or bad air leak for the hanging high idle...
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 25, 2016 0:35:16 GMT -5
so weird that the CHT is acting up because it seems to read the right temps for ambient temperature... and its definitely not in celcius is it? temps converted to F seem more normal, except at ambient it shows 85F. There's a manual for the CHT gauge maybe I need to look into its settings.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 25, 2016 5:55:15 GMT -5
Celsius would be a lot closer to what I'd expect for the most part. 340-350F WOT, 300-320F mid throttle may be a bit hotter than you'd want, but much more likely than 150-160F. The idle really shouldn't be 300F though, and that 85 ambient would be 185F if it were C.
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Post by Jwhood on Jun 25, 2016 8:43:55 GMT -5
Seems to me you have an air leak,I'm telling you from my experiences with my Tgb scooter that the intake leaks a lot and is a real hot spot when engine is running,i had several leaks on the intakes left side and I use a high temp fuel resistant permatex in that area to finally seal her up,I cut my own gaskets from felpro and also use the permatex in light coats to get an air tight seal,I was having hanging idle after throttle let off too and could not seam to figure what was the issue,low and behold it was the intake.Now when I let of throttle its fine and I'm running stock 50cc right now with mrp pipe and an 85 m.j and alien eye filter with 1 hole open,and needle in middle slot and only have slight bog at mid throttle but nothing that a little blip of throttle won't clear up.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 25, 2016 13:23:52 GMT -5
I'll go through and check the thermocouple leads to see if they are touching anywhere and then ill check for leaks near intake.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 29, 2016 14:20:32 GMT -5
So I have no idea how thermocouples work but I connected them to the sensor with like 3" of regular wire. This may be causing the inaccuracy. I don't think you can mix wire types, it's gotta all be the K-type wire? I don't think the length of the wires matter though, correct me if I'm wrong. Also should the whole thing be insulated? I have no idea how to connect this up.  |
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Post by niz76 on Jun 29, 2016 15:25:38 GMT -5
Yep that'll do it. Temp leads are very sensitive and usually don't work correctly when spliced together like that.
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 29, 2016 15:36:03 GMT -5
Yep that'll do it. Temp leads are very sensitive and usually don't work correctly when spliced together like that. If I take the spliced part off and just try to insert the lead ends into the orange connctor will that work? |
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 29, 2016 16:27:00 GMT -5
put the lead ends directly into the orange connector and same temps got to about 170 Idle but when I started moving or rev'd the engine it would drop to 140s or 150s. Moved the idle speed screw out some and seemed to stop the hanging idle problem, Idle still too rich though: Will idle fine at 2k RPM but if you leave it for a while it will bog for a while before taking off or not start at all. Couldn't restart it after it died yesterday, took out plug, covered in black unburnt fuel, flooded. The manual that came with the temp display has a few values I can change but I have no idea what they are: Full Range Adjustment Filter Time Value Cold Compensation Value Could it be something to do with the increase electricity generated by the stator at higher RPMs causing the display to read less the higher the RPMs are? spec sheet says 12VDC with I<80mA if that means anything. Have it hooked up to the battery when the key is turned on. I read that the connection end can be very finnicky so maybe it needs to be connected with one of these?  Maybe I should just buy another thermocouple sensor with one of those already attached. Going to message procon products and see what they think. |
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 30, 2016 18:59:31 GMT -5
Asked procon if they sold a CHT sensor with connections that connect right into the display and they told me I could just use the bare wire at the end of the CHT sensor I had and stick it in the display.
I guess the temps are correct? I have no idea what to believe. I sprayed starting fluid around where the intake meets the crankcase, no change.
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