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Post by Elektrey on Sept 6, 2016 19:26:41 GMT -5
The tach should work fine during a soft seize, though I wouldn't rule one out from the rest of the description. Maybe there was an issue with the ignition system? Loose connection? ok so the wires running to the ignition box usually route under the seat support but at one point got ontop of the seat support and were crushed flat by the seat, possibly they are frayed. So a soft seize wouldn't look like rpms going to 0 and then normal after a loss of power? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 6, 2016 21:05:22 GMT -5
So a soft seize wouldn't look like rpms going to 0 and then normal after a loss of power? The ignition doesn't shutdown because the engine loses power if the piston gets tight in the bore, so just like kick starting when the engine isn't running you should still see engine RPM. The tach is just picking up impulses for spark, so if your tach goes crazy it should leave you suspect of ignition components. Unless you heard the engine come to an immediate halt and them jump back to 7kRPM, it could be pointing to an ignition system malfunction. |
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Post by Elektrey on Sept 6, 2016 22:16:18 GMT -5
So a soft seize wouldn't look like rpms going to 0 and then normal after a loss of power? The ignition doesn't shutdown because the engine loses power if the piston gets tight in the bore, so just like kick starting when the engine isn't running you should still see engine RPM. The tach is just picking up impulses for spark, so if your tach goes crazy it should leave you suspect of ignition components. Unless you heard the engine come to an immediate halt and them jump back to 7kRPM, it could be pointing to an ignition system malfunction. I don't really know, it felt low on power and was losing RPMs then jumped to 0 and then back up and then fell again. Wouldn't that be it seizing and then freeing up or no? Got an angle grinder so I could do a plug chop, that would tell me if I'm running lean. I could also rewire the section of wires that got crushed under the seat that go to the CDI. It's hard to say what I heard because the wind noise was pretty high at 45-ish mph |
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Post by gsx600racer on Sept 7, 2016 0:27:15 GMT -5
Unless your engine locks up(locking rear wheel sometimes), the tach should not read 0. If the engine looses power but still is rotating you should have a tach signal/rpm reading unless you are having ignition electrical issues.
Better example, soft or hard seize will feel like moderate to hard braking(especially if your moving along). Either your rear wheel will lock or the belt will slip in the variator usually "blue-ing" the drive face from the friction.(rear tire still spinning and driving the belt and engine not turning and acting like a brake)
Ignition loss will feel like coasting or very lite braking.(engine will still be rotating)
I had a wire come loose from the coil and the tach was jumping all over the place from the road/engine vibration and had loss of power.
Did you ever solve your CHT issues ?
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Post by Elektrey on Sept 7, 2016 12:19:56 GMT -5
Unless your engine locks up(locking rear wheel sometimes), the tach should not read 0. If the engine looses power but still is rotating you should have a tach signal/rpm reading unless you are having ignition electrical issues. Better example, soft or hard seize will feel like moderate to hard braking(especially if your moving along). Either your rear wheel will lock or the belt will slip in the variator usually "blue-ing" the drive face from the friction.(rear tire still spinning and driving the belt and engine not turning and acting like a brake) Ignition loss will feel like coasting or very lite braking.(engine will still be rotating) I had a wire come loose from the coil and the tach was jumping all over the place from the road/engine vibration and had loss of power. Did you ever solve your CHT issues ? No, I could never figure out why the CHT readings were so off. |
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Post by Elektrey on Nov 15, 2016 18:14:58 GMT -5
Well I didn't want to do any more mods and honestly ran out of stuff to do to the scooter. on top of that I can't get the CHT gauge to function and the tune is far from finished and makes me frustrated.
I bought a new 2017 Kawasaki Z125 Pro and transferred the tag to it so as of now the R50X is retired. The Z125 feels heaps better built than the R50X and really feels nice to ride very smooth. I'm not going to sell the R50X as I've put too much money and customization into it and am too attached and don't want to sell it unless I have to. It's a fun toy but really "race" oriented and not very reliable from my perspective.
Maybe if someone from florida on this forum wants to buy it I would consider it, there's just so much to this scooter it's hard to sell to just anybody.
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