zbuck
Scoot Member
Posts: 21
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Post by zbuck on Oct 11, 2010 11:14:16 GMT -5
139 4T, Manco Matrex, Grandson coming home from work, scooter quit running, no spark. Checked coil, .2 ohms primary side, 3.85 ohms sceondary side no plug boot attached. Stator 75 ACV red and black wire, 0.00 ACV blue and white wire. Bought new stator 80 AVC r&B wire, 0.00 ACV B&W wire, both checks with wires unhooked from CDI wire harness. Checked kill and igntions switches according to service manual, both checked good. Battery 12.9 volts, rear brake lite on when handle pulled. No side stand switch on this scooter. Any ideas/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. Don B.
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Post by scooterrebel on Oct 11, 2010 12:08:44 GMT -5
The most common failure is the CDI. Check all electrical connections.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 11, 2010 12:14:43 GMT -5
I'd check all connections and swap in another CDI. Not sure about the wire doing 0.00V. According to spec taht should be less than 1V, but there should be some power there unless I'm thinking of the wrong wire. Everything else sounds good though, so I'm guessing it's the CDI.
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zbuck
Scoot Member
Posts: 21
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Post by zbuck on Oct 12, 2010 7:51:50 GMT -5
Thanks, guys for the replies. I tried to edit my orignal post, but could not fiqure out how to do it. I should have stated. New performance coil and CDI installed also. Any other ideas/suggestions? Don B.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 12, 2010 8:31:52 GMT -5
Check the distance between the reluctor and the pickup. Should be somewhere around 0.010".
There should be a "modify" button in the top right of your posts. That's how you edit.
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Post by tomcas on Oct 12, 2010 19:56:00 GMT -5
I discovered that taking resistance readings on the coil doesn't necessarily mean all is well. I had a bike that refused to electric start and would barely try to kick start. It had what looked like a nice strong spark and the coil primary and secondary resistance measured fine including the cap resistor. In a fit of desperation I switched out the coil and the bike started right up. I was amazed and had to swap the coil in and out, changing the cap, holding the HT lead away from metal, and just about every thing else I could think of to explain it. To this day I have no explanation other then maybe the coil back EMF somehow cause the CDI to shift the timing. Oh yeah, I had previously swapped out CDI's before swapping the coil and that had no effect.
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zbuck
Scoot Member
Posts: 21
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Post by zbuck on Oct 13, 2010 7:09:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. .032 air gap between reluctor and flywheel and I see no way to adjust the pick up. Magnetic field on the stator side of flywheel very strong, reluctor has very little if any magnetic pull. Should I have a strong pull at the reluctor? Don B.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 13, 2010 7:29:06 GMT -5
Some pickups have enough slack in the mounting holes that they can move up or down a little. If it's not adjustable at all that way and you see no signs of contact or anything odd, it's probably alright. I don't think you need to be feeling a lot of magnetic pull there. I'd be very surprised if the flywheel magnets failed.
Have you replaced the spark plug? I "fixed" a scoot for a freind a few weeks ago. It had no spark so I brought over my tools and spare parts preparing for the worst. Checked and there was no spark. Swapped plugs, now it sparked. Fired right up. The plug he had in it had maybe 30 miles on it. No signs of damage or fouling at all.
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zbuck
Scoot Member
Posts: 21
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Post by zbuck on Oct 14, 2010 10:10:30 GMT -5
Yes, with two new plugs. I talked to a friend who repairs vintage MC's and he thinks the air gap is to wide. He stated that must are .005 to.015. So I am going to see if I can move the pickup coil closer. Don B.
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Post by scooterrebel on Oct 17, 2010 16:17:15 GMT -5
new cdi and coil? was it running well before the change??
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Post by Goosey on Oct 21, 2010 7:42:54 GMT -5
I had those issues with the pickup being too long, it would eventually hit the flywheel after it warmed up. Fixing the gap helped for a little but damage was done, replacing the stator solved the problem. Good luck.
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zbuck
Scoot Member
Posts: 21
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Post by zbuck on Oct 21, 2010 8:06:07 GMT -5
Scooterrebel, yes new cdi and coil. Grandson coming home from work and the scooter quit running, no spark. Goosey, replaced stator, no ACV from bl/w wire. Thank you for your replies. Don B.
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Post by Goosey on Oct 21, 2010 17:59:13 GMT -5
Did you use the same type stator? Number of coils and plugs same as original?
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Post by felliott on Oct 21, 2010 19:42:26 GMT -5
I checked every engine in the shop and the biggest gap is .018. Have you tryed to bend it down a little to close the gap?
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zbuck
Scoot Member
Posts: 21
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Post by zbuck on Oct 22, 2010 7:56:05 GMT -5
Update, it lives. Went back thru the kill and igniton switch wiring and no problems. Brand new stator, no continunity in bl/w wire, bad connection, repaired. New hi-po coil, spark plug boot/holder would not hold plug. Plug fell out, replaced with boot from old coil. New spark plug and it is running. I guess I need to buy a better grade of replacement parts. This scooter is a bear to start cold, you have to prime the heck out of carb. But once warmed up it is okay. Thank you Lady and guys for all your help. Don B. P.S. Air gap still the same.
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