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Post by Clank on Nov 24, 2014 22:29:25 GMT -5
I pulled the pair system out, changed the the engine oil and gear oil. Debating whether or not to adjust the valves or throw the 47mm on it. .  |
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Post by craisin on Nov 24, 2014 22:43:06 GMT -5
I have no idea what is in my PCs. I have one in my office I use and the other is just a media machine for music or watching movies at night. They come from my son as hand-me-down units from somewhere. They both run Windows 7 Thin PC which is a F#@%&! up operating system. I may be old fashioned but I have taken a few BOHICA moments from flash and scripts so I limit them severely. My son is upgrading his own personal desktop this January. His machine is a beast but he wants a better beast so his old one comes to me. Sometimes he sells his old PC but he knows mine need an upgrade. I finished porting the carb side of the intake manifold last night. It now has a 32x26mm inlet side tapered smoothly down to the existing 18mm outlet. I will see how the spacer and head look before I do anything to the outlet. I got some parts today but some did not fit right so I am still searching. The intake spacer had a 23mm hole which was too large to use on a 50cc. I hope I don't have to make an intake spacer out of wood. I found one that has a 20mm ID hole but it had 48mm bolt spacing. I may have to get it and slot the bolt holes. The air filter is OK but it did not have the weld nut in the end that the picture had. I will need to punch a hole and use a self-taping screw. That will be OK for a cover. I did get a radiator hose that will make a fine air inlet for the CVT. I also bought one that will make a perfect warm air inlet for the carb. If you need crazy bent up pre-formed tubes an auto supply store is a great place to look. Frankenmachines are fun! I contemplated using radiator hose as the inlet hose for my carb. I still am, though that depends on my mounting options pending the condition of this air intake I have now. My issue is that the bolts holding the intake are oddly placed. One is SO close to the manifold (I'll try to take pictures tomorrow) that getting to it makes it almost impossible to tighten down. I also stripped one of the holes and had to tap in a 1/4-20 stainless bolt which I have plenty of those laying around. These M8 or M6 torque screws piss me off but in that tight space it looks like that's one of few options. Unless I can find a flange bolt with a head size small enough for me to get an open end wrench in there, I may have to go with a front facing intake which will kill my free standing air filter option. Unless I just don't put the body panels back on, or cut a hole in the body panels. See, now I'm thinking like you. I also am curious as to how that jet works for you. I'm very interested to hear about this. For $25, it's worth poking a tiny hole into the carb. I know it gets its fuel from the drain at the bottom of the bowl so that's no big deal either. I also think I know why my engine is fouling up at high RPM. Same problem I had with my 4t, a bad plug/gap. Sitting idle and thinking sometimes helps me. Reading ideas from others also gives me ideas. YOU my friend are a true pioneer of the Frankenmachine and I love your posts.   if you resistor cap off the sparkplug lead and replace it with one off a car |
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 24, 2014 22:49:31 GMT -5
I pulled the pair system out, changed the the engine oil and gear oil. Debating whether or not to adjust the valves or throw the 47mm on it. .  |
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 24, 2014 22:50:07 GMT -5
I contemplated using radiator hose as the inlet hose for my carb. I still am, though that depends on my mounting options pending the condition of this air intake I have now. My issue is that the bolts holding the intake are oddly placed. One is SO close to the manifold (I'll try to take pictures tomorrow) that getting to it makes it almost impossible to tighten down. I also stripped one of the holes and had to tap in a 1/4-20 stainless bolt which I have plenty of those laying around. These M8 or M6 torque screws piss me off but in that tight space it looks like that's one of few options. Unless I can find a flange bolt with a head size small enough for me to get an open end wrench in there, I may have to go with a front facing intake which will kill my free standing air filter option. Unless I just don't put the body panels back on, or cut a hole in the body panels. See, now I'm thinking like you. I also am curious as to how that jet works for you. I'm very interested to hear about this. For $25, it's worth poking a tiny hole into the carb. I know it gets its fuel from the drain at the bottom of the bowl so that's no big deal either. I also think I know why my engine is fouling up at high RPM. Same problem I had with my 4t, a bad plug/gap. Sitting idle and thinking sometimes helps me. Reading ideas from others also gives me ideas. YOU my friend are a true pioneer of the Frankenmachine and I love your posts. if you resistor cap off the sparkplug lead and replace it with one off a car Huh? Can you elaborate on that? |
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Post by craisin on Nov 25, 2014 2:13:18 GMT -5
PM Sent
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Post by renners on Nov 25, 2014 2:33:58 GMT -5
Wanna trade it with me for half a pack of cigarettes ?
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Post by Clank on Nov 25, 2014 3:04:51 GMT -5
Give blood Ride street!!!! C L A N K!!! Insane Downhill Bike Race In Chile valparaiso pol…: youtu.be/xIe6hYAdw_I |
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Post by Mrx2002 on Nov 25, 2014 6:03:05 GMT -5
if you resistor cap off the sparkplug lead and replace it with one off a car More info is needed here? |
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 25, 2014 6:56:12 GMT -5
if you resistor cap off the sparkplug lead and replace it with one off a car More info is needed here? This was his PM to me. Which cleared it up for me. they have a resistor in the cap to stop radio interferance so you take it off by unscrewing it and strip a little insulation off and fold a little bit of the copper wire along the outside of the lead and crimp on a normal car plug terminal and boot you will need the screw on thing for the plug
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Post by Mrx2002 on Nov 25, 2014 11:51:23 GMT -5
More info is needed here? This was his PM to me. Which cleared it up for me. they have a resistor in the cap to stop radio interferance so you take it off by unscrewing it and strip a little insulation off and fold a little bit of the copper wire along the outside of the lead and crimp on a normal car plug terminal and boot you will need the screw on thing for the plug
Ahh okay i understand now! |
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Post by FrankenMech on Nov 25, 2014 14:48:03 GMT -5
I don't understand....  |
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Post by Clank on Nov 25, 2014 15:51:21 GMT -5
I'm with you Frank
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 25, 2014 16:52:53 GMT -5
Either he's talking about something in the boot or something on the plug itself. I think it was something in the boot though. Which I eliminated when I put an NGK boot on it. |
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Post by craisin on Nov 25, 2014 19:20:43 GMT -5
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 25, 2014 19:31:42 GMT -5
Ok. So what exactly am I looking to replace? Do we need to start buying different plugs? Or just in the spark plug cap at the end of the wire? I'm confused and not sure I want to go reading all of the internet for something that can be answered in one sentence.  |
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