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Post by 2strokd on Oct 28, 2010 8:35:26 GMT -5
What ever happened to? Anybody ever heard anything outta Josh? Havent seen him on in a coons age  . Just wonderin :spin: |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 28, 2010 8:48:48 GMT -5
Odd, I was thinking the same thing last night. No idea.
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Post by Reign on Oct 28, 2010 14:06:44 GMT -5
Funny, I just came on to see if he had been on lately. He still owes me some cash for that QMB engine I sent him.
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 28, 2010 16:01:03 GMT -5
Oh, you did end up sending him one?
Hhhmm, wonder whats up with him? Hope everything is ok.
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Post by drawkward on Nov 15, 2010 0:15:41 GMT -5
Hey! I'm still around! I just noticed this post be chance. Don't usually click Off-Topic too often. I check in all the time - but that's just it: I've been lurking; I don't post too often anymore. I don't know why, guess I've just busy with school.
Just recently came across some free time to take a look at the the QMB that Reign sent me about 2 months ago (PM me about the payment, Ben; we need to discuss this in private. Be assured that I haven't forgotten about it - in fact I think about it constantly).
I gave it some decent effort with some different compounds to try and sort of "glue" the stud into the stripped case threads for the bottom left cylinder stud that it came with, but nothing seemed to hold. I put Aluminum Epoxy from HF Tools in to it earlier today before work (2 pm). Came back and tried to tighten it down (after doing a strength test on the remaining Epoxy in the plastic tray and seeing that it was cured; the directions said 4-5hrs for full strength). (11 pm): Didn't tighten completely before it broke free. Maybe a little better than before, but not nearly as tight as the rest of them. I don't own a torque wrench...
I'm guessing the ultimate solution would be to buy a tap and die set and put a slightly larger stud in there? Right now I've got the other three studs tightened nearly identical (by hand, but using as consistent of a technique as possible to make them all equal), but the bottom left stud is only about 50%, if that, as tight as the other equal three studs.
I'm going to bolt the motor to a frame and attempt to get it runnin - even with the inevitable leak.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 15, 2010 5:36:44 GMT -5
Glad to see you're still around.
You could tap it for a larger stud, but then I don't know how easy it's gonna be to find a new stud at that size, length, and that fits through the cylinder. I think a helicoil might be a better option. Then you would still have to drill it out a little, but it would accept the same studs as long as you get the right helicoil.
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Post by 2strokd on Nov 15, 2010 9:05:27 GMT -5
Good to hear your still around man!
I saw you on the other day and wondered if you would see this?
Yes, try a helicoil! They work!
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Post by Reign on Nov 15, 2010 10:32:25 GMT -5
PM sent. I'd also try the helicoil. They've worked for me in the past, but I usually just end up tapping the hole bigger in the long run. I just get worried that it's not gonna hold forever.
I honestly think the damage to the case was UPS's fault. The day I dropped it off, the lady behind the counter literally dropped the box onto a cart from about 2 feet up. I'll take the blame for not packing it better though.
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Post by drawkward on Nov 16, 2010 15:36:37 GMT -5
I agree with everything you've all mentioned concerning the helicoil - and, in all my research on the internet, people swear by them. But I'm too lazy for that. I would need to buy a tap and die kit and find the correct helicoil for my application.
Ben - Remember when you sent me those extra Minarelli cylinder studs? They didn't fit my 1E40FM (1E40QMB-A) case. Different thread count or different diameter - not sure which. But in any case, I'm thinking about either taping the hole to accept that stud - or just forcing it in there and letting the threads on the stud do the work. I know for a fact which way is the correct way to do it: rethreading with a tool. But like I said - I'm broke, and lazy. Think I have a chance with forcing the stud that doesn't fit into the hole? Hell - if that doesn't work I could always just helicoil it, right?
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 16, 2010 16:06:57 GMT -5
Josh, this is absolutely one of the worst times to be lazy. This is coming from someone who has made mistakes from laziness and inexperience plenty of times and regretted it. If you force another stud in, the threads in the block won't be right and you will damage the stud. You may snap the stud off in the case. You could even crack the block, worst case scenario. A helicoil really isn't complicated. A helicoil kit will set you back a small amount of money, but it's money well spent considering you risk screwing up the cases. These things don't have so much material that you can go overboring them time and time again safely. It might[/i] work for a little while if you just cram a stud in there, but it's definitely gonna cost you more money in the long run if you hang on to this engine.
If figuring out the size you need is the big issue, all you need to do is take the stud into a hardware store and see what nut fits on there right. That's the size you are gonna need a helicoil in to make the stock studs work again. If you can't figure it out, let us know.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 16, 2010 19:57:53 GMT -5
I just checked my QMB and it uses 7mmx1.0 studs.
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Post by 2strokd on Nov 17, 2010 8:54:43 GMT -5
I bet you can get it man. With all the other stuff you have done? If you put your mind to it you can. Ive only used a helicoil once and it held great! It was a calipar bolt (the one that holds the brakes on the car lol) on my old car. It worked and i was proud  |
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Post by drawkward on Nov 17, 2010 12:37:11 GMT -5
Can't find them locally. You guys know of any better deals than this? www.amazon.com/Helicoil-HEL55467-Thread-Repair-Kit/dp/B000X7CN00Can't afford to buy anything right now. Will have to wait. Right now (after using the Aluminum epoxy, and just trying it out to see what happens), the scooter is running. Even after letting it sit for 36 hours in the cold, it fired up again on the first kick. I could be way off base here, but my brain seems to want to think that an engine with no air leaks would start sooner than an engine with air leaks... Air leaks = fuel escaping, which means more kicks to refill the engine with fuel. No air leaks = fuel stays where it is and engine starts on the first spark, since there is already fuel there...? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 17, 2010 13:04:06 GMT -5
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Post by 2strokd on Nov 17, 2010 13:42:45 GMT -5
You can actually ride with an air leak but dont hold it at any throttle position long.
Mainly WOT, and jet richer.
Im not suggesting it, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do!
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. Just wonderin :spin: 
