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Post by scooterpimp on Dec 6, 2014 14:21:13 GMT -5
Was curious if anyone has a safe way to strip/remove peeling etc paint from plastic panels? I have blast equiptment for doing my metal stripping ; but cant use on plastic. Have paint bubbling / peeling & need to take down to bare plastic so new paint wont lift. & wet sanding for hours gets boring. Any ideas???
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Post by Sitticuss on Dec 6, 2014 20:52:10 GMT -5
Castrol Super Clean(CSC), available from local auto parts houses, walmart and other places works great for me and a lot of others. It seems to take the least amount of time to get paint off (Of course the longer the paint has been on the plastic, the longer it might have to sit). It also seems to be one of the most economical solutions I've found. I pay $3.95 (local Auto Parts store) for a gallon of the stuff and it lasts along time if kept in the original container. It can/will evaporate if left exposed to air. CSC comes in a large purple jug, kinda like a bottle of anti-freeze.
Here's how I use CSC...
I fill a Sterilite Container(You can use RubberMaid,Tupperware,Gladware, etc.. then I just place the parts in it and let them soak. Generally about 15 minutes to 30 minutes for recently painted pieces (painted within the last week or 2). I then take the parts out and give them a light scrubbing with a toothbrush while running water in the tap(This is to rinse away the old paint, as well as the CSC). Once I have the paint removed I then thoroughly rinse the part in water. I then let the part to thoroughly dry before re-painting. The longest I have ever had to leave parts in CSC was for 3 days while stripping a model which had paint on it for over 3 yrs.
Credit goes to the original author...sorry dude no idea who you were...
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2014 9:11:32 GMT -5
How I did it, is the old fashioned bodyman way. I took each panel off, used some 80 grit paper to quickly remove the old paint and primer by hand sanding with light pressure and allowing my hand to follow the parts contours. It was very quick.
Then I wiped off the residue, checked for sand scratches and old paint that still needed removal. After that I wet sanded from a 5 gallon bucket with 240 grit, and washed the panels with water. Rechecked. Allowed to air dry. Reinspect, and wipe clean with a clean cloth. Then primed with a sandable 'grey primer'. 2 coats - opposite directions for cover.
Wet sand the primer with 320, verify all sand scratches from the 240 had been removed. Allow to air dry, clean cloth wipe the panels, one last recheck.
Reduce the paint, add hardener, set gun to correct air pressure - test spray pattern- shoot first coat -- allow to sit - then shoot second coat - allow to dry
1st coat was applied in vertical orentation, second coat horizontal.
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Post by Sitticuss on Dec 9, 2014 9:17:28 GMT -5
How I did it, is the old fashioned bodyman way. I took each panel off, used some 80 grit paper to quickly remove the old paint and primer by hand sanding with light pressure and allowing my hand to follow the parts contours. It was very quick. Then I wiped off the residue, checked for sand scratches and old paint that still needed removal. After that I wet sanded from a 5 gallon bucket with 240 grit, and washed the panels with water. Rechecked. Allowed to air dry. Reinspect, and wipe clean with a clean cloth. Then primed with a sandable 'grey primer'. 2 coats - opposite directions for cover. Wet sand the primer with 320, verify all sand scratches from the 240 had been removed. Allow to air dry, clean cloth wipe the panels, one last recheck. Reduce the paint, add hardener, set gun to correct air pressure - test spray pattern- shoot first coat -- allow to sit - then shoot second coat - allow to dry 1st coat was applied in vertical orentation, second coat horizontal. I did one with 10 or 20 coats of flat black paint and the base coat was way unstable.....sand your butt off...wow hated it |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2014 12:32:37 GMT -5
I agree that sanding does take some time, but the 80 grit cuts that down without gouging the plastic. I used chemical stripper one time many years ago, and I thought I has removed it all, but even vapors can linger on (metal) parts I found.
I even remember the YMM and color of that car if that tells you anything
I had to totally remove all the paint, primer, and then reclean and apply heat to force it out - then redo everything again - trying to match a color even with timer cups and experience on one panel is just too much work, time, and money wasted for me. When, not if, you don't match it shows in about 6 months
Some three stage paints such as Audi's Pearl White wholesale cost per quart is over $250 - Lambo's May Yellow is more than double that per qt- 3 qts of product (different stages) plus reducer and hardener on a very simple job gets extremely expensive. When you are using spray bombs and prepackaged colors, no big deal on cost- might be under $50 - paint quality is not an issue in that situation typically
If it works for you, great. I just don't like doing the same thing more than once unless someone is paying for each time.
I suppose the best way to phrase my outlook is:
You can take the bodyman / painter out of the shop, but you can't take the shop out of the bodyman / painter
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Post by scooterpimp on Dec 9, 2014 18:30:45 GMT -5
I usually add flex agent to etching primer & paint on plastics , with temp changes plastic has a way of growing & shrinking causing even the best paints to crack , peel etc. Would be scared to get near scooter panels with 80 grit , 220 & up on block/ squeegee to keep finger ruts away.. but my plastic working experience is limited , any input is. Appreciated  |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2014 11:51:08 GMT -5
The sanding blocks were meant to aid in reducing minor height varations in flat panels such as a door on a car. I have not found any truly flat panels on a scooter - yet.
When you sand you should sand horizontal to the shoulder, or you will always end with varying heights- even with this proper technique, you can end up with variances if you over reach
Sanding by hand is very easy as you gain experience, and let the paper do the work. Over sanding is a problem for the newbie as they want to get it done too fast.
As to how you paint, that is entirely up to the individual. Currently the plastic content in cars is about 51% Pp, and the balance is mixed incl ABS. The scooters I have seen are well over 90% ABS, and the problem is that the Chinese fail to cure it - so shrinkage.
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Post by themajekalbum on Dec 11, 2014 1:19:45 GMT -5
Our sand blaster at work is filled with silica. That's what I used to strip the layers upon layers of paint off my vitality. Originally cherry red then traffic cone orange. Did green after that, followed by silver. All the panels are ABS and the silica sand was very forgiving, almost too forgiving. Took maybe 9 hours to do all 11 pieces, but there wasn't a single spot of paint left. Panels felt pretty smooth after words, no pitting anywhere. Leaves a great finish for filling scratches/gouges with epoxy and for the paint sticking.
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