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Post by macman1999 on Nov 4, 2010 12:59:57 GMT -5
The fuse in the battery compartment of my Vento Zip-r3i blew out about 2 weeks ago and I replaced it, first blow out in 4k miles. Yesterday it blew again and I replaced it and it blew out again, I kick started it and got home.
I then replaced the fuse and watched it after turning the ignition switch to the on position it blew after about 10 to 20 seconds and just prior to blowing I noticed a slight amount of electrical smoke coming from the push in electrical connection between the fuse and the battery. :censored:
I have been pouring over my service manual and have yet to find a solution. If anyone here has an idea what is going on I would be greatly appreciative. :cheers:
I also have a small oil leak down at the oil feed for the two stroke oil feed, I cut the hose and reinstalled it hoping for a tighter fit but it still leaks about a 1/4 oz per day. Does anyone know if the oil feed pump is prone to leaking or should I just try to find a better hose clamp than that flimsy thin wire clamp that came on the bike.... :swear:
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 4, 2010 14:01:15 GMT -5
I'd try a better hose clamp and/or tighter fitting hose first on that oil line. The fuse blowing could be a short or an issue with the rectifier/regulator. Testing a 4 prong rectifer/regulator
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Post by macman1999 on Nov 4, 2010 14:07:20 GMT -5
Thanks I will check it out, I will take off and test the rectifier as you suggested, but does the rectifier even come into play if the bike is not running and only the switch is turned to the on position.
I am also going to take the seat out and follow the lines looking for a short.
That is what I thought about the hose clamp.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 4, 2010 14:27:26 GMT -5
I beleive the battery power is routed to the ignition switch. The ingition switch is then wired to the rectifier and other components that need power. That's why it would only happen with the key on. It could be from the rectifer or a short elswhere. It doesn;t matter if you are getting power from the stator from the engine running, because the system has battery power at that point and a short can do it's dirty work.
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Post by macman1999 on Nov 4, 2010 15:35:26 GMT -5
Thanks allot for the help on this 90GTV
Guess I will be playing with the multimeter in the morning then.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 4, 2010 18:18:06 GMT -5
NP. Let us know what you find.
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Post by dude on Nov 4, 2010 19:10:37 GMT -5
Your oil leak may be from the pump it self. Mine was leaking for the seal.
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Post by macman1999 on Nov 5, 2010 16:48:35 GMT -5
The oil leak was the easy fix, just got a good strong spring clamp and that did the trick.
I have tried 3 rectifiers which only one of them bench tested good, no cure to the fuse blowing as of yet. I am going to start tracing the electrical system so see if I can find a short since all of it is totally wrapped in black plastic sheaths it's going to be a pain.
Anyone have any ideas what the next few likely places to look are.
Thanks
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Post by Fox on Nov 5, 2010 17:29:42 GMT -5
If you have all the body panels off, try unplugging all the large plug connectors on the entire scooter all at once and then turn the key on and see if the fuse blows. If it doesn't blow then start plugging them all back in one at a time with the key on until the fuse blows again. That should narrow it down a bit anyway.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 5, 2010 18:04:38 GMT -5
Check all the spots where wires aren't wrapped and make sure nothing is nothing is worn through from contacting the frame or starting to melt from heat.
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Post by macman1999 on Nov 5, 2010 18:08:23 GMT -5
That is tomorrows project and I flipping hate taking off the body panels but I guess it is somewhat unavoidable, but I will start unplugging the harnesses one at a time to see what general area I need to concentrate on and inspection all wires not wrapped. will probably start in the instrument panel first since I had it off last month.
Thanks for all the input guys
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 5, 2010 18:23:42 GMT -5
I don't enjoy removing/installing panels a whole lot myself. Best advice I can give you there : don't re-install them until you're sure you're done. I usually test ride with minimal panels. Just make sure you have enough to be safe of course (seat,lights).
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Post by macman1999 on Nov 6, 2010 8:20:44 GMT -5
Getting ready to go out and find the short, just looked and the oil is still seeping from somewhere, I am now guessing its the pump since thats all that is left, so dude how freakin hard was it to replace? or is just premixing a better option.
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Post by dude on Nov 6, 2010 11:24:14 GMT -5
I didnt look for a replacement seal. I had a used pump and used it. The pump is held in buy two screws. I dont like premixing on the go. I seen new pumps from $20-$50.
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Post by macman1999 on Nov 6, 2010 15:12:42 GMT -5
Found it, thanks for the help.. It was a switch that I didn't even realize I had (the one one the right handle that controls the light options with three choices) turns out that when switched to the far left it shorts out the fuse, the other two positions are fine so I just ran a bead of hot glue to prevent me from accidentally moving it to that position. only had to take the gauge panel off and check all of the harnesses there so thank god no body panel removal necessary.
Oil leak fixed as well I think, needed to adjust the pump cable out a bit since it seems that it was out of adjustment by about 1/16" and if that doesn't work I have an old scoot for parts in my basement that may have the same pump, I just haven't checked it out yet since it looks like a real pain in the ass to replace.
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