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Jog-Mania
Feb 16, 2016 20:30:57 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by nelson on Feb 16, 2016 20:30:57 GMT -5
Have you checked to see if the carb is opening fully?
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Post by tsimi on Feb 16, 2016 20:43:16 GMT -5
Last time I swapped the Jets I checked the slider and it was opening full but for the sake of it I will do another check today. In fact let me go check right now so that I can take that of the check list.
I also tried lighter rollers, maybe a bit too light since that is all I had around now. I need to get some 4g rollers to make certain. It will rev past 8k when using lighter rollers but it has no forward power at all it feels like it is revving in empty gear. I didn't try to rev it on the stand though.
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Post by tsimi on Feb 16, 2016 21:00:08 GMT -5
Slider opens full, just confirmed. I also tried to see if it revs past 8k on the stand but I couldn't. The vibration and sound, it's like it's gonna explode anytime if I keep it any second longer. I got past 6500 and then I stopped. Will give it another try later on when the engine is warmer. Is there anyone out there that ever revved an engine full power on a stand? If that thing should come of the stand while I am revving that high I will be making a back flip. lol
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Post by spaz12 on Feb 16, 2016 21:08:46 GMT -5
Just make sure to record it!
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Post by tsimi on Feb 16, 2016 21:10:05 GMT -5
Just make sure to record it!
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Post by tsimi on Feb 17, 2016 6:35:10 GMT -5
More testing done today. I put back the setting on the torque driver and also swapped back in the blue CDI. My "ass on the seat" sensor tells me there is more torque and power now with the blue CDI still rpms max out at 8200 top speed around 68-70km/h.
The only thing left to change back to as it was is the air filter sponge inside the airbox and the reed block. I highly doubt that the current carb setting is the culprit. It is not lean nor rich. I checked the spark plug multiple times since then and I have a nice color on it and the plug is not wet nor to clean.
I also doubt that the air filter sponge inside the airbox is limiting my max rpm but for the sake of it I will swap that too just to get that of my list.
Maybe my current setup is not matching with such a reed block. Maybe an MHR Rep or Corsa cylinder kinda grade BBK could be better for it?
Kinda getting tired, I am working daily on the scooter with no positive outcome thus far. Guess I need a break so I will keep it as is until the weekend.
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 17, 2016 7:06:50 GMT -5
What are you after right now? I lost track along the nearly 30 pages of tuning and testing You're not having a full blown race engine right? But you've tried different CDI's, TD grooves, Different variators and roller weights...what's wrong?
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Post by tsimi on Feb 17, 2016 7:21:14 GMT -5
What are you after right now? I lost track along the nearly 30 pages of tuning and testing You're not having a full blown race engine right? But you've tried different CDI's, TD grooves, Different variators and roller weights...what's wrong? lol 30 pages yes but not all is about tuning. A lot off topic talk too. Right now my problem is I cannot get past 8200 maximum rpms and my top speed dropped by 10km/h. Before I had this setup on my Scooter. - Blue CDI - Stock Reed block - 19mm PHBG carb with rich condition at the bottom. (#30 slider, W9 needle, 37pj, 92mj) - Stock air filter sponge in airbox and I reached maximum rpms of 9400-9800 and top speed of 78-80km/h, then I changed the following - Red Racing CDI - Big Reed Block with glass fiber reeds - 19mm PHBG carb with what I think perfect setting (#40 slider, W7 needle, 38pj, 90mj) - Turbo filter sponge in airbox (that's what they called it here) So one of these changes is responsible for my max rpm and top speed drop. I tried to find a solution by changing roller weights or tune the torque driver to get more rpms out of it but no luck. So I am currently reverting the above changes one by one to find out what caused the drop. I have however very, very strong low- mid-range at the moment. I suspect the reed block with the glass fiber is the problem but I wanted to go step by step and see what happens and thus far none of the changes have made any positive difference except that I think the blue CDI gives me better torque and power/acceleration compare to the Red Racing CDI. So what do you think? Big Reed Block? Or is it something with the carburetor?
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 17, 2016 13:46:45 GMT -5
Hard to say... i haven't ridden your scoot how its right now or prior to the changes. You would think it has to do with the changes you've made...but experience tells me it could be any other thing that could break or fail at any given moment.
Another thing i would ask myself is: Does the problem seems electric or mechanic. Does the scoot feels like it's being electronicy limited on revs? Or does it just run out of power? In other words.. did acceleration also abruptly declined along with the speed? Or did nothing changed but only the top speed/revs?
I think I would be able to track down the cause for a 10kph drop fairly quick since it's quite abrupt and not very subtle. It 'should' be quite easy to pinpoint. But you're not me. I'd suggest back track your steps (you're doing that already) but keep thinking straight....swapping over a reedblock isn't gonna cause a 10km/u drop unless there's something horrible wrong with it...and knowing you and your ways of handling things you would've noticed it.
The carb is likely not the problem since with a 10kph drop it would run horrible anywhere pas 1/2 throttle and at any given speed. Are you using a dellorto clone? Then this carb statement can be nuanced a bit. But you're not talking about acceleration being way less so a carb problem is unlikely
The filter...same story as the carb. With proper tuning you would be able to solve the problem and regain the speed.
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Post by tsimi on Feb 17, 2016 18:01:56 GMT -5
Yesterday I swapped back the CDI and today on the way to work I had a good opportunity to test the scoot on a long straight course. Max rpm is 8200rpm and 75km/h top speed which is an increase of 5km/h to the previous test run with the red CDI. Before removing the big reed block I want to give the CVT tuning another go maybe I can get out those last missing 5km/h to reach 80km/h.
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Post by niz76 on Feb 18, 2016 1:53:14 GMT -5
Have you measured your belt width lately? I was having RPM issues and a fresh belt helped get my RPM's back up. I would think a thinner belt would give higher RPM's than a new thicker one but I was proved wrong when I changed it. Just throwing some ideas out there for ya!
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Post by tsimi on Feb 18, 2016 3:10:34 GMT -5
Thanks niz76 appreciate it. Belt is new didn't drive more than 100km with it. I have another one to try though let's see what happens. I am also gonna go get some lighter roller weights to have more setting possiblities. If all fails, as Lucass said it is just a street setup and sure more powerful than it was with 49cc so maybe I should just accept the facts and let it be.
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Post by spaz12 on Feb 18, 2016 3:45:48 GMT -5
Well, you can still try carbon reeds as well for the new reed block...
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Post by tsimi on Feb 18, 2016 5:32:54 GMT -5
That is a good idea spaz12, thx. The glass fiber reeds look very simple and to cut a carbon sheet should be easy.
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Post by Lucass2T on Feb 18, 2016 13:06:06 GMT -5
Hey another question. You say you have tested two cdi's. One with an advance curve (red one) and the other one is just derestricted (blue one). Does that red cdi needs a stepped key (flywheel) to function properly? Could it be you didn't use the stepped key and topspeed was reduced because of such a big retard at top rpm's that power just disappeard? Which resulted in a lower top speed? I know for a fact the red top performances cdi with advance curve needs to be used with a stepped key.
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