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Post by tsimi on Apr 6, 2016 6:04:31 GMT -5
Crank seals arrived!
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Post by tsimi on Apr 6, 2016 6:29:10 GMT -5
So now that I have all parts...I think...I need a some sort of quick install tut.
What I have got thus far is;
- Drop the bearings into the case with hot/cold method. - Pull the crank through with crank installer. - Install crank seals, how to exactly do that? Need to check Brents "Find it fast" section... - Install BBK and torque it down for squish check. How much squish do I need for a MHR Rep? - Install stator stuff - Install gears - then the rest like reed block, carb and so on
Is the above more or less correct? Do I need to do something special after the crank installation? Add some oil somewhere? Apply grease on something?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 6, 2016 6:42:47 GMT -5
You can do it that way, but I usually put the bearings on the crank first with hot/cold. Then put the whole assembly into the cases with hot/cold. I've done it as you describe and with hot/cold to get the crank into the bearings in the cases, but the way I just described seems easiest to me. Not a bad idea to spray some WD40 on metal parts that are going into a freezer and put them in a bag. I just don't like moisture sitting around on metal, especially bearings. I usually squirt some 2T oil into the crank and rod bearings after it's installed. Also, make sure the dowels for the case halves are installed and clean and go together well before you start heating anything. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/1225/installing-bearings-crankshaft-videosSeals have to be pushed/driven in carefully so they don't go past where they should seat, which is basically flush with the outside of the case generally. The vid below is a 4T, and a bit easier than seals tend to go into the 2T, but it's the same basic idea. The crank side can be real tight and require more force, but again just be sure not to drive it in too far or use anything that will damage the seal. You'll see I use RTV on the seal, but that's because my TaoTao sucks and leaks. I don't use it on my 2Ts, but you can if you want. youtu.be/j-ZpL4cCW2c?t=1m32s
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Jog-Mania
Apr 6, 2016 6:54:52 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by tsimi on Apr 6, 2016 6:54:52 GMT -5
Thanks Brent
I have a crank installer tool to pull the crank through the bearing without hot/cold method. Only the bearings will need to go in with hot/cold.
I read somewhere that you have to put something on the seals not sure if it was grease or some other lubricant.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 6, 2016 7:03:44 GMT -5
Grease on the inside lip of the seals.
I also have a crank tool... it just doesn't get used anymore. The only time I may use it is if the crank is not rotating freely after being installed, but even then a tap may do it or if you check when still hot it may move easily.
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Post by Lucass2T on Apr 6, 2016 12:21:00 GMT -5
So now that I have all parts...I think...I need a some sort of quick install tut. What I have got thus far is; - Drop the bearings into the case with hot/cold method. Yes, I prefer this method over Brents'. Also remove all the thick grease from the bearings. Somethimes there is this thick white grease inside, you need to remove it with brake cleaner and immidiatly spray with WD40.- Pull the crank through with crank installer. Yes, or when you have the courage and tools, heat the bearings' inner ring and slide the crank in.- Install crank seals, how to exactly do that? Need to check Brents "Find it fast" section... I use a long socket the same diameter as the seal and hammer/tap it in (gently, carefully.- Install BBK and torque it down for squish check. How much squish do I need for a MHR Rep? First torque cyl down without the head and look if all the ports open correctly @ BDC. The piston crown must be flush with the bottom of the ports. Then, torque down with head with 11nm. Squish i'd suggest 0.6-0.8mm. - Install stator stuff. Yes- Install gears. Yes- then the rest like reed block, carb and so on. YesIs the above more or less correct? Do I need to do something special after the crank installation? Add some oil somewhere? Apply grease on something? Spray the whole crank, bearings, inside oil channels with WD40. When ready for 1st start leave the cooling shrouds off...after 1st warmup torque down head again with 11nm.
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Post by tsimi on Apr 7, 2016 8:38:12 GMT -5
Group picture!
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Jog-Mania
Apr 7, 2016 9:17:48 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by tsimi on Apr 7, 2016 9:17:48 GMT -5
Lucass2TIsn't Yamaha 14nm for torque down? And what did you say about flush ports? I have to make sure that the ports are open when the piston is at its lowest position?
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Post by Lucass2T on Apr 7, 2016 9:56:35 GMT -5
Lucass2T Isn't Yamaha 14nm for torque down? And what did you say about flush ports? I have to make sure that the ports are open when the piston is at its lowest position? Hmm 14 seems too much...in my 'career' as a scooter mechanic i alsways torqued M6 headbolts down with 11nm. Learned it that way, always did it that way. But when the manual says 14, do 14. In the pics below you see the bottom of the ports are flush with the top of the piston crown (piston crown=outer rim piston top) The pistons crown must be perfectly flush with the bottom of the ports, why? 1. Ports must be able to fully open. 2. Inflowing gasses must be able to 'hug' the piston crown for cooling purposes 3. When the crown sits below the bottom of the port, eddies will occur which interrupt point 2. So try to perfectly alighn the crown to the bottom edge of the port. After that check squish. You might need to shave the head when your squish is too high (more than 1mm). Or when squish is too tight...mill out the combustion chamber.
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Post by Raizer on Apr 7, 2016 17:24:29 GMT -5
tsimi yeah Yamaha specifies 14nm for the headstuds, from memory the Malossi instruction booklet says 10 or 11nm with there kits. Factory Suzuki is 10nm.
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Jog-Mania
Apr 7, 2016 18:04:34 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by tsimi on Apr 7, 2016 18:04:34 GMT -5
Hm... if the Malossi manual says 11nm and Lucas's 70mph scooter is torqued down with 11nm then I shall do the same. My Polini Sport was torqued down with 14nm because it did not specify anything.
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Post by tsimi on Apr 10, 2016 1:57:07 GMT -5
Today I swapped my carbs. Removed the 19mm PHBG and installed the Stage6 21mm PHBG carb. And it couldn't had been a better timing. Look at the images below then you'll understand. Also modified my stock airbox a bit. Made the snorkel hole a bit larger for better/more airflow because I felt like it was struggling at WOT. My 21mm PHBG setup for today was Needle: W7 (2nd from top) Slide: #40 MJ: #94 PJ: #40 It feels great from 0-3/4 but I think a tiny bit lean at WOT. Will get me some new spark plugs first then I'll do more testing. Idling is steady and good, nothing like my friends trouble Jog. The power difference between the 19mm and the 21mm is significant and very impressive. My ass on the seat sensor says it has more torque and way more power up hill. So here the images; throttle wire almost ripped! Hold by only 2 strands.
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Post by Lucass2T on Apr 10, 2016 2:06:25 GMT -5
Just in time!!
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Post by aeroxbud on Apr 10, 2016 6:11:58 GMT -5
That would not of lasted long
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Post by tsimi on Apr 10, 2016 7:09:01 GMT -5
spaz12 Here a video that I recorded with my SJ cam. It does not look 100% same but very close to the original quality. I will keep this video up for 24-48 hours and then remove it again. For those that want to know what's inside that package, the HPC crank and some other stuff I ordered.
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