|
|
Post by tsimi on May 3, 2016 2:31:53 GMT -5
There is one thing I am not sure of. This engine will be running on premix, what about that plastic gear thing for the oil pump that sits on the crank? Can I skip that install or should I install it? When I put the gasket on there is a larger space around the crank and the gasket which is meant for that plastic gear to sit in. Will removing it cause any issues?
|
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on May 3, 2016 3:17:34 GMT -5
There is one thing I am not sure of. This engine will be running on premix, what about that plastic gear thing for the oil pump that sits on the crank? Can I skip that install or should I install it? When I put the gasket on there is a larger space around the crank and the gasket which is meant for that plastic gear to sit in. Will removing it cause any issues? I removed the plastic pump drive wheel, left the pump in place. I removed the oil tank and plugged the oil line from the tank to the pump...left that line on the pump (screwed an M6 bolt in the line) Attached the thin feed line to the carb like normally you do when you still use the pump. |
|
|
|
Jog-Mania
May 3, 2016 3:21:13 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by tsimi on May 3, 2016 3:21:13 GMT -5
Why did you install the pump again?
To avoid dirt going in?
|
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on May 3, 2016 4:46:21 GMT -5
Cleaned and installed the stator side stuff. Who knew, the oil pump maker is Mikuni, that explains why it is so reliable. I just need to remember to tight the flywheel nut with 38Nm, I don't own such a strong torque wrench so gotta run to the bike shop in the next few days. I also installed the upper circlip on the crank the one just under the stator unit just in case.   |
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on May 3, 2016 4:51:25 GMT -5
Why did you install the pump again? To avoid dirt going in? Yeah thats one reason. - I don't have to remove the pump (extra effort) - Oil feed into the carb is nicely blocked off with the old and still hooked up oil lines. The feed line from the oil tank into the pump is blocked off with a M6 bolt so no airleaks through the lube system. - I don't lose the pump somewhere in my 9872476283 boxes of parts. - It doesn't do any harm when I leave the pump in place. |
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on May 3, 2016 4:55:33 GMT -5
I just need to remember to tight the stator bell nut with 38Nm, I don't own such a strong torque wrench so gotta run to the bike shop in the next few days.
You mean the rotor/flywheel? How are you gonna torque it down to 38?? I sure hope not with a piston stop inserted!? I always just use an air wrench set on the weakes position and give it 3 or 4 good blasts. Remember a rotor has a conical fit so as long as the nut stays on the rotor will never come loose. |
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on May 3, 2016 5:19:52 GMT -5
Lucass2T Yes, flywheel I mean. I don't have a piston stop and I would never use one. The bike shop guy has an air compressor with gun. Like you said 2-3 blasts and it should hold just fine.
|
|
|
|
Post by Raizer on May 3, 2016 5:33:48 GMT -5
I just need to remember to tight the stator bell nut with 38Nm Is that all? That's loose compared to the 60NM Suzuki states for my engine  /I totally agree with @lucass2t, couple quick blasts with a rattle gun is more than enough! |
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on May 3, 2016 21:53:20 GMT -5
Today I removed the reed block from the 5SU engine that I got for free to remove the gears and it turns out it has also an angled reed block. And as far I can see it seems to be also ported.
So what makes the 5BM engine so superior? Why is a Jog with a 5SU engine slower then one with 5BM?
|
|
|
|
Post by spaz12 on May 3, 2016 22:52:04 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Lucass2T on May 4, 2016 2:13:39 GMT -5
Today I removed the reed block from the 5SU engine that I got for free to remove the gears and it turns out it has also an angled reed block. And as far I can see it seems to be also ported. So what makes the 5BM engine so superior? Why is a Jog with a 5SU engine slower then one with 5BM? I guess this thing is just not really well documented yet and these details are just not yet 'out there'. I mean...maybe ppl only know the 5BM as the ported engine, maybe there are more? What kinda engines are there anyway? I did only know the 3KJ, 4MJ and 5BM...now there's this 5SU engine which seems to be ported too...  So I guess it's your task to find out Tsimi:P you live in the land of the Jog!  |
|
|
|
Post by moofus02 on May 4, 2016 10:09:15 GMT -5
Hard to tell if you got 2 factory ported motors why one is slower. Might be the factory cylinder porting, possible difference in the reed block etc. Some of the 5mb motors have a real good trenching some aren't. Maybe the su isn't as radically trenched as the mb. Some of the mb motors are better than others. I've seen pics of the 2 different versions of it but don't remember where. Maybe Oldgeek?
|
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on May 4, 2016 10:51:30 GMT -5
moofus02The reed block seems to be the same but the cylinder might be different. Maybe also the gears/gear ratio? Carb? CVT? Sooner or later we'll know more because once I am done with this engine I will do some engine swapping between my 2 Jogs and then at the end I should have a spare 5SU engine which I will take apart and take a closer look at.
|
|
|
|
Post by moofus02 on May 4, 2016 11:46:40 GMT -5
I think all the 5mb motors had a factory trench on them but from the pics I've seen some were much more radical than others. Year, casting etc I don't know. I do know the Yamaha motors seem to have milder port timing than my clone motors. I have a Zuma so I can't say about the others. My stock Eton will pull more rpm than my stock Zuma with a zx pipe and the Eton has more of an over rev than the piped Zuma. I've got a vino cylinder here I should port map it, my Zuma and a clone and see what the difference is
|
|
|
|
Post by ryan_ott on May 5, 2016 12:40:53 GMT -5
|
|
