Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2016 10:11:39 GMT -5
This just arrived today, it's by Glixal, same company that made my BBK, have not installed it yet, today's project, but at the very least the bore is 20mm with no machining that I can see. According to the company, it should have a 30 idle/90 main.   |
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Post by tortoise2 on Aug 20, 2016 10:54:48 GMT -5
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2016 16:20:45 GMT -5
Oops, yeah a link would have been nice... sorry
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Post by humanshield on Aug 25, 2016 9:17:10 GMT -5
True 20mm carbs are becoming readily available now. (After the HS special report that initially exposed the scam, exclusively at 49ccScoot.com)  |
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tito
Scoot Member
confused, very confused
Posts: 32 
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Post by tito on Jul 11, 2017 7:54:58 GMT -5
True 20mm carbs are becoming readily available now. (After the HS special report that initially exposed the scam, exclusively at 49ccScoot.com) Nice can someone recommend a high quality legit 20mm carb in stock somewhere? |
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VIP
Scoot Junior
Posts: 10
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Post by VIP on Jul 11, 2017 10:33:10 GMT -5
True 20mm carbs are becoming readily available now. (After the HS special report that initially exposed the scam, exclusively at 49ccScoot.com) Nice can someone recommend a high quality legit 20mm carb in stock somewhere? Check the link a couple posts up. Amazon has them, and they are Prime eligible. |
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Post by T-rexFlyer on Aug 10, 2017 5:15:28 GMT -5
This just arrived today, it's by Glixal, same company that made my BBK, have not installed it yet, today's project, but at the very least the bore is 20mm with no machining that I can see. According to the company, it should have a 30 idle/90 main. Have people been having good luck with these? Do they take keihin jets? If not what type does it need. Thinking of ordering one in a day or two. |
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Post by V90Performance on Aug 11, 2017 13:07:00 GMT -5
I use the glixal jet kit. Currently have a 20mm installed on my bike.
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Post by milly on Sept 3, 2017 16:09:45 GMT -5
It would appear here in the UK there are fake PD19J Carb's on ebay by looking at them. I have contacted the seller mieiei6792014 and awaits their response.
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Post by zummerp on Mar 9, 2018 7:32:44 GMT -5
They do take Keihin jets. I have been having rough luck with them, but customer service has been fantastic!
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Post by fugaziiv on Mar 9, 2018 9:17:09 GMT -5
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Post by scooterted on Jun 21, 2018 7:50:48 GMT -5
I recently got a true 20mm carb on ebay from MopedFactory. The action is litterally titled TRUE 20mm carb, you have to be careful because they also sell "20mm" carbs that appear to be fakes. The one i got has issues though, more on that later. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282239138619As a side note, i almost purchased a glixal 20mm carb off amazon, but the pictures showed a fake. I can verify this carb to be genuine. The throat is 19.9mm (compared to 18.5mm of a 19mm carb) in diameter all the way through the butterfly valve. Thats a total area of 311.02 square mm (compared to 268.8 sqmm of the 19mm carb). For fun i estimated the throttle plate/shaft at 4mm wide, leaving roughly 231 square mm in the throat around the butterfly (compared to 194sqmm of the 19mm carb). The venturi (which was harder to measure as i dont have a snap gauge, i used drill bits) is roughly 18.2mm in diameter (compared to the oval of 16.8mm x 15.24mm of the 19mm). With an area of roughly 260.15 sqmm (compared to 200.9sqmm of the 19mm carb). The 20mm carb.  Differences in venturi. The 20mm on the left and the 19mm on the right.  Differences in the diaphram cup. 20mm on left and 19mm on right.  I found the needles to have less grooves as opposed to what im used to seeing. 20mm on the right, on the left is what i had in my parts box. Identicle except for number of grooves.  Now for whats wrong with the one i got. The emulsion tube threads are stripped, so the emulsion tube (which is identicle to the 19mm carb btw) cant be screwed in. It actually appears that whoever tapped the hole didnt tap it deep enough. Ive already contacted the seller, they offered either a refund or a replacement, i asked for a replacement, though i feel like i should have asked for a refund, cause im afraid i wont get a replacement, ill just keep up with the days and get with paypal of i dont get a new one in time. I realized later that i could properly tap it, it appears to be m7x.75 taper thread. Im having a hard time finding a friend with one (apparently, if they needed one they would be asking me lol). But i shouldnt have to do that to a carb i just bought.  |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 21, 2018 9:25:03 GMT -5
To fix the stripped threads, you may be able to use a product such as JB Weld. Filled epoxy(epoxy glue mixed with milled aluminum or Fe) can be used to form threads that will hold pretty well. The threads of the jet(in this case) would be wiped with silicone oil, the epoxy mixed and spread around the inner diameter of the hole, and the jet screwed into place, just short of seating the emulsion tube. After curing over night, the jet/emulsion tube should be unscrewed, and the passage checked for any 'extra' epoxy, removed using a sharp blade or Dremel. Clean up any mess, and screw in the emulsion tube.
If you don't mess up what's left of the original threads, you may be able to get away with a very tiny amount of epoxy, just enough to coat the threaded area. The silicone oil(specific) should allow for removal and re-assembly. Check the Devcon or JB Weld sites and you should find that their 'special release agent' is made up of about 99.9% silicone oil. Buying it in a small bottle with applicator is a lot less than their 'release agent' price, FWIW.
There are other methods that may be used, such as using grease or Vaseline down into the tube so the epoxy cannot travel down into the actual 'mixing' area where the emulsion tube resides. Vaseline or grease could then be rinsed using a petroleum based solvent, such as gasoline(DANGER!), or kerosene or Stoddard. Should leave nothing behind that was hurtful.
tom
If you look at the images, the barrel or slide on the left looks HUGE in comparison to the one on the right(with the yellow cap on the diaphragm). Venturi size must also be different to accommodate said slide.
Just remember you do not want to oversize the carburetor as it will result in poorer performance if it is too large. The speed through the venturi will not create enough low pressure & turbulence for the mixture to be 'good'. Going too big can be as bad or worse than going too small.
tom
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Post by scooterted on Jun 21, 2018 10:50:19 GMT -5
All that is true regarding performance.
As far as the threads on my carb goes, it appears they didnt tap it far enough, so only the first thread engaged. With a correct tap i can probably get it to work without jb weld.
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Post by AtariGuy on Jul 17, 2018 2:00:09 GMT -5
What's strange... the stock carb is 19mm. A "big bore carb" is 20mm. A stock gy6 125cc is 24mm, and you can get a performance 26, 28, 30, and 32mm's for the 139qmb, gy6, cn250, vog 260...
Where's the 22mm carb?
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