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Post by tsimi on Aug 5, 2015 19:05:19 GMT -5
lol The idea is to start pig rich and work your way down, but I kinda tuned my Mikuni TM the same way you are... lol yeah, that was my target but I totally underestimated the "no snorkel" thing. I mean with snorkel best MJ was #80 so it thought #88 should be enough to start with. Now I am at #94 and I have a feeling that #96 will work too. That is a huge step up in Jet size and that only by removing the snorkel. I am always going for a longer test drive 3-4km and then I look at the spark plug to see at what stage I am right now and so far it could be always a bit richer. I guess if #96 performs same or better then #94 then it will have to do until I can get the larger set of Jets that range from #98 to #124. I am also very surprised that the MJ has such an impact on all ranges of throttle. I always thought it is only 3/4 to WOT but it feels and drives different even at 1/4 or 1/2 throttle. And I am also very thankful to the higher being (God(s), Allah, Budda?) that the engine didn't seize so far even if I was driving leaner then I thought. All in all it is an interesting experience.
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Post by niz76 on Aug 5, 2015 19:54:24 GMT -5
Ya I try to imagine the needle's taper lifting up out of the hole of the main jet as I twist the throttle- affects pretty much the whole range... Sounds like you're getting her ripping and with no seizes! Yeehaw!
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Post by tsimi on Aug 6, 2015 5:51:42 GMT -5
MJ #96 test drive completed. And.....well,...it is somehow not same good as with the #94. It doesn't bog when WOT (only when releasing quickly and crank it open again and again repeatedly). It takes a bit long to reach top speed. Max rpm was 8900rpm and the longer I drove the higher it went until it reached 9200-9300rpm. It somehow doesn't feel same crisp as with the #94. Top speed is of course same as with the previous Jets (69/70kph), it just takes long to reach that speed. The speedometer needle doesn't jump/spike so fast as with the #94.
Next time I'll go for another test drive with the #96 and then stop somewhere and swap in the #94 to compare it again. But I guess that #94 will be the winner.
I also will keep a close eye on the spark plug when driving with #94 to make sure everything is in the acceptable levels.
...looking forward to the CVT tuning. I like the torque and power at the moment so I only will add stiffer clutch springs first and see how that goes first before going to change the torque spring or rollers.
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Post by birdman on Aug 8, 2015 10:26:58 GMT -5
Sounds like 94 is the winner winner!
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Post by niz76 on Aug 8, 2015 10:50:36 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Aug 9, 2015 6:17:19 GMT -5
Did some CVT tuning and I started with the clutch springs. I installed the 2000rpm, red, clutch springs. Man what a PITA that was. I have never sweat that much I pulled and pulled but I couldn't get those super hard springs to set. So I used a simple, straight Pick. Kinda like an Ice Pick. With it I could somehow stretch and slide the springs into their place/hole. Setup for Test Run #1: - Stock Variator with 0.5mm additional Shim Washer
- 2 shoe clutch with 2000rpm, red springs
- Yellow Torque Spring. (3%up)
- 3x6g | 3x5.5g
Went for a test drive and...I didn't like it. I have to rev up until 5600-6000rpm to get the clutch to engage and move forward. To drive in city-like conditions with a lot traffic lights this needs some getting use to. Went back home and I thought what the hell I just throw everything I have at it and see how it goes. I added a red torque spring, kept the red clutch springs inside, added the OR Variator that I had with 6x 6g rollers to counter the stiffer torque spring. Setup for Test Run #2 - OR Variator
- 2 shoe clutch with 2000rpm, red springs
- Red Torque Spring. (10%up)
- 6x6g
Went for a test drive and...man it sucked big time. I had awesome 3/4 to WOT speed and power but at the lower range it was just terrible. Even a bicycle could have outrun me. So back home I replaced the red clutch springs (2000rpm) with milder ones (1200rpm). I also put back the stock Variator and kept the 6x6g roller weights. Also left the red, stiffer torque spring inside. Setup for Test Run #3 - Stock Variator with 0.5mm Shim Washer
- 2 shoe clutch with 1200rpm springs
- Red Torque Spring. (10%up)
- 6x6g
Went for another test drive and I liked it. Lot better to drive around or even cruising inside traffic rich areas. Clutch engages now around 4600-4800rpm. That's around 1000rpm more then stock. Acceleration is great, uphill is brutal. No difference if flat or uphill the speed and acceleration stays almost the same. So finally I got what I was looking for. I will keep this setting and drive around for a week or so and see how that goes.
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Post by tsimi on Aug 9, 2015 6:22:20 GMT -5
I was thinking to change the final gear but I have a hard time to find parts for my Jog. Can I use the same gear from older Jogs? And what are the pros and cons of a smaller gear ratio? The clutch turned 12 times to get the tire once around.
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Post by birdman on Aug 9, 2015 10:51:46 GMT -5
you have a 12:1 gear ratio. you will want to change to a taller/ higher gear like 9:1 or lower. It will increase top speed, however the he cvt will need to be adjusted to accomodate the taller gears. Switchingto a lower gear will lower main speed... no need for that. Furthermore, im sure you could find gears for your scoot,one of the pros can chime in here.
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Post by tsimi on Aug 12, 2015 5:53:20 GMT -5
Here a video of my scooter. This is not a try to get into the famous speed list. I just wanted to show how the Scoot looks and drives at the moment. (road was slightly up hill) You can also see the recently painted panels. Sorry for the bad camera work, i don't own an action-cam or GoPro and this was more a spontaneous thing. Had a hard time to keep it steady with one arm after reaching +55kph Scooter specs are in my signature.
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Post by tsimi on Aug 13, 2015 2:16:11 GMT -5
I have a question regarding CHT. 1. What should be the temperature for a 70cc BBK cylinder when cruising? 2. What should be the temperature for a 70cc BBK cylinder when WOT? 3. And what is the maximum temperature that a 70cc BBK can withstand?
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Post by tsimi on Sept 30, 2015 22:44:30 GMT -5
Lucass2TYou asked me once if that is a 5BM engine. Please explain more. Is mine a 5BM engine? Which Scooters usually have one? Jog? Vino? And if it would be a 5BM engine what is the benefit?
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 1, 2015 1:10:15 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Oct 1, 2015 1:43:53 GMT -5
Lucass2TI see... most of engines here in Japan have numbers like 3KJ-xxxx (older fast Jog), A105E-xxxxx (older Jog or Aprio), A113E-xxxxx (2T Vino) or my 2T Jogs A125E-xxxxx So if it would be a 5bm engine it should say 5BM as part of the engine number code? Is that correct?
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 1, 2015 3:15:14 GMT -5
Correct. Myself I have three 4MJ engines. Thats yet another version, guess specially for Europe. Furthermore the ones I know are 3KJ, 4MJ and 5BM.
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Post by tsimi on Oct 1, 2015 3:53:10 GMT -5
3KJ?! You can get tons of 3KJ engines here! I will rightaway go look for some now....
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