My Mostly Suzuki AZ50 Based build... ... Is now a Let's II

[tsimi]

Regarding the speedometer of yours the RX2N Replica, do you have more info like was there a manual in the package? If so can you take a picture of it? Any diagram of the connections would be cool.
I found it on Aliexpress but before I decide to get one I need to know if I can even use it.
Did you need to cut or change the stock Suzuki wire harness to get it to work?

Have you ever compared the speedometer with a GPS? Use an App like Ulysse for Android phones or any other GPS app to compare once.

[Raizer]

Yeah it actually came with a fairly decent 4 page instruction leaflet, it's at my workshop so I can't post pics at the moment (it's 1:50am here), but I'll try to remember later on!

This is the seller I brought mine from, was the cheapest on Aliexpress at the time and the seller has great feedback.
s.aliexpress.com/7n2uyUrY
Kinda wish I'd gone for the black dial now!

I left the Suzuki loom standard, I had some plugs sitting around from the Sepia I parted so I depinned them and added them to the loom that came with the gauge so it just plugs in.
I actually removed the plugs that came on the gauges patch loom and after removing excess wires recovered the loom in braided conduit to tidy it up.

I removed all the wires for the gear indicators, water temp light, check engine light etc, but now I wish I'd thought to use the check engine light as my 2t oil warning!

Had to add a wire for the tach signal, according to the manual it can be taken from the pick up or from the coil, I couldn't get it to work properly from the pick up so added a wire to the coil output on the CDI plug.

Oh and I just tapped into the high beam switch and indicator power wires for the warning lights.
Fuel gauge works mint, even the low fuel warning light (which gets brighter the lower the fuel level)


You measure the rolling diameter of your front tyre and enter it into the gauge, the better you measure the more accurate the speedo ends up.
I need to remeasure mine, just thinking about it I did do a GPS comparison when I first fitted the gauge and it was within 3k, so I've just realized that the 80k in my video would be closer to 77k

Also fit as many magnets as you can fit on your disk for the pick up!!
Or at least 3 magnets anyway, I started with 1 and it's just not enough to give a decent stable speed reading!
Oh and the magnets I posted that I've used on mine with the alloy body and E-clips are not what come with it, it can't with plain little round neodymium magnets, I think they intended you to put them in the hex of the disk bolts, but they were too big for my bolts so I used the clip in magnets that came with the round gauge I got originally, that didn't work but at least gave me clip on magnets haha.

[Raizer]

One thing it's got going for it over the genuine Koso is it's got a 15,000rpm tacho.
Koso ones come in 10,000rpm or 20,000rpm, IMO 10,000rpm isn't enough and the 20,000rpm ends up with only around half of the tachometer face in use on a street scooter.

[tsimi]

Thanks! I gotta get my head around it. I have to look closer at my current wiring once.
I kinda like the white one better then the black. I will look at some more video on Youtube and decide.

Have a good night.

[Raizer]

It's really rather simple to wire once you get your head around it, but I'm one of those strange people that enjoys wiring!

Looking at your Jog mania thread you already have individual indicator lights (my Suzuki had a super basic dash with single light*), so I'm thinking you would only need to add the tachometer signal wire from the CDI, a full time DC+ and a wire for the high beam light.
The rest should already be at your cluster plug.
There easy enough to figure out which is which too.


I liked the white one for my original plans with the AZ frame, but I think black would have been better on the Let's since it's black too.



*I was lucky to get the fancy upmarket cluster with indicator light and fuel gauge, the lower spec has just a speedo, oil light and fuel light.

[Raizer]

tsimi
Haven't been at my PC all day, but I didn't forget to snap some pics for you




I changed a wire, that's why I've added pink to #5


As said I take my tach pulse from the CDI's coil output, set to negative with the Daytona.







Also you peaked my curiosity...

Very dirty stock 49cc cylinder.


Not sure what was going on, couldn't get it over 80k today BUT it didn't sound like it wanted to explode either!

[Raizer]

Feb 6, 2016 2:39:37 GMT -5 Raizer said:

Not sure what was going on, couldn't get it over 80k today BUT it didn't sound like it wanted to explode either!

Did a full speed run using a GPS app today,

Glancing down at my phone while maxed out I was holding 80.68kph (or 50.13mph) which is a bit faster than yesterday as yesterday was 80k on the speedo, GPS today said that is 76.89k.
BUT there is something really not right in my drive line somewhere!

Around 75k there starts a real nasty noise accompanied by a vibration, the faster I go the worse it gets, I'm thinking it's got to be variator related as I've lost a bit of top speed and RPM since the first few runs with the Daytona CDI.
If I get the time tomorrow I plan to remove all the CVT parts and see if I can find the cause, as well as changing back to the better SJ50 clutch shoes but with the heavier springs I'm using now.

There is still a fair bit of room for improvement on the tuning front too, I think I've got WOT about right, but it's rich and 4 stroking from closed to 1/4 throttle, or at lest it is without load on it as sitting at 50k I'm only using 1/4 throttle at most and it seems fine.
Trying to decided if it's lean in the mid throttle causing the revs to hang, or if the clutch isn't disengaging properly as the revs really only seem to hang when moving, think when I've the belt off I'll see if it hangs with out the clutch attached.

[proarturs]

Feb 7, 2016 0:42:56 GMT -5 Raizer said:

Feb 6, 2016 2:39:37 GMT -5 Raizer said:

Not sure what was going on, couldn't get it over 80k today BUT it didn't sound like it wanted to explode either!

Did a full speed run using a GPS app today,

Glancing down at my phone while maxed out I was holding 80.68kph (or 50.13mph) which is a bit faster than yesterday as yesterday was 80k on the speedo, GPS today said that is 76.89k.
BUT there is something really not right in my drive line somewhere!

Around 75k there starts a real nasty noise accompanied by a vibration, the faster I go the worse it gets, I'm thinking it's got to be variator related as I've lost a bit of top speed and RPM since the first few runs with the Daytona CDI.
If I get the time tomorrow I plan to remove all the CVT parts and see if I can find the cause, as well as changing back to the better SJ50 clutch shoes but with the heavier springs I'm using now.

There is still a fair bit of room for improvement on the tuning front too, I think I've got WOT about right, but it's rich and 4 stroking from closed to 1/4 throttle, or at lest it is without load on it as sitting at 50k I'm only using 1/4 throttle at most and it seems fine.
Trying to decided if it's lean in the mid throttle causing the revs to hang, or if the clutch isn't disengaging properly as the revs really only seem to hang when moving, think when I've the belt off I'll see if it hangs with out the clutch attached.

I had the exact same vibration problem on my Malaguti !
The fix was very, very simple.

The nut that holds the variator was loose.

[Raizer]

Thanks for the tip, I will double check it tomorrow, hopefully going to go right through my driveline and check everything and replace the clutch again, was going to do it today but it's a public holiday here and a nice sunny day so I took my boy skateboarding instead of going over to the workshop.

I have been fiddling with my carb again this afternoon though, took a bit of fuel out of the idle mix adjustment which got rid of the 4 stroke gurgle at low revs, fingers crossed it's not too lean under load now, sounds aright at 50 though!
Think I'm still a little lean at WOT, so going to go from the current 85mj to an 87 and see if that helps the top end at all.
Am pretty sure now my "lean RPM hang" is actually my clutch not disengaging from the bell until until I slow down to a near stop, when taking off from a standstill it engages at around 5000rpm, but when slowing down I can open the throttle at as low as 2000rpm and it is clearly engaged as the scoot will accelerate.

Oh yeah, the other day I mentioned in 2strokezumatx 's thread that the Suzuki's run a half cover over the CVT, remembered to snap a pic today

The black cover that goes over that is light plastic rather than structural so I've just been running with the half cover in place lately while I muck around with roller weights and the clutch etc.

[Raizer]

Nothing too exciting to report, bit of a day of 1 step forward, 2 steps back!
First off good bye straight mineral Castrol 2t, hello Total semi

Feb 7, 2016 23:13:01 GMT -5 Raizer said:

Thanks for the tip, I will double check it tomorrow, hopefully going to go right through my driveline and check everything and replace the clutch again

Finally got to it today, at first glance nothing was obviously wrong or loose except I'd put the belt on backwards.
Dug into things a bit deeper and found the variatior was pretty well sticking to it's bush!
Turns out the little bit of lube that was on it had burnt which resulted in a hard varnish like layer on both the bush and on the internal bush of the variator.
A really good scrub with brake cleaner sorted it out, also cleaned the rollers while I was at it.
Looking closely I think some of the noise at high speed may be the belt contacting the starter bendix, the over range variator only has a couple mm clearance from the bendix.

While I was in there I swapped back to the original 3 shoe clutch I'd been running.
First off I weighed the shoes at 176.5g each, then put them on a drill bit diet being careful to not leave them structurally unsound, ended up with 148.7g each.
Cleaned the shoes and there mounting plate up with a file so they would swing out super smoothly and swapped over the yellow springs from the Sepia clutch (SO much easier to fit when the clutch is screwed to the bench!).
Quick clean of the friction surfaces and the bell and I was ready for a test ride!

First impression was that I didn't take enough weight off the clutch shoes as it now engages at about 3200rpm rather than the 4750-5000 of the Sepia clutch.  Checked and found that the clutch shoes I'd just taken off are 125.4g each...

Next thing I discovered was that the variator now worked smoothly rather than taking off and feeling like it suddenly shifts.
Problem is it's now shifting before the engine comes on pipe.
Before it was seemed to be fully closed at about 9000rpm and it felt like it's coming on pipe at about 8250-8500.
Now it's all done shifting at just on 8000, so it's not feeling too fast atm lol
So thinking of trying 6x3.5g rollers, it's running 3x3.5g and 3x4g atm.


Refitted the bore and head to my other engine, then blocked the ports to keep water out and gave it a scrub with diesel and degreaser this evening, after a quick hose off it's a lot cleaner!


Brushed it over with a lot more diesel before I left, will pressure wash it tomorrow which should have it clean enough!
I was thinking of soda blasting it or getting it glass bead blasted, but came to me senses in that I plan on riding it ALOT so theres no point going beyond clean as it will get dirty again!

Crank spins nicely, but there is a slight noise which I think might be the drive side bearing, so I plan to split it and change to C3 tolerance bearings, might look at getting the crank balanced too if it's not excessively expensive.
Just need to try and find some crankcase sealant for when I reassemble it, think Yamabond 4 is available in NZ.


Oh and it turns out it has an 11.25:1 gear ratio going by my count.

[tsimi]

Nice report!

Is that a Broomstick inside your intake?

[Raizer]

No... it's a paint stirrer!
Was sitting on my father in law's bench and fitted perfectly so I tapped it in haha

[Raizer]

Hunted around a few shops in town this morning for case sealant, only thing I could really get easily was Yamabond 4 ($25) or Threebond 1211 ($90)...




Then I did this






Bit gummy, funnily though the other case half is spotless!

 
Feels well made to me, no rough edges etc


Big end feels perfect, no excessive play.
Gave it a clean with brake cleaner, blew it out, poured 2t oil all over the bearing and spun the rod to work it in to the bearing to keep it protected from rust.


Intake should benefit from having all the casting seems cleaned out of it.
Tapers from 19mm at the carb to 25mm at the reed block.

Plan at the moment is to not go overboard on porting the cases, just to take out all the casting marks and smooth out any sharp edges along the intake path.
New C3 bearings and good quality seals and yeah.

Bearings in it for reference are a 6006 and a 6204.
Seals measure at 22x40x7mm and 17x27x7mm.

[Raizer]

Just realized I didn't take any pics of the small case after I had taken the crank out.
Took a few now




It's in my washhouse soaking in a bucket of hot soapy water to try to loosen more grime lol

[190mech]

Nice seeing the innards of a Suzuki(a favorite brand of mine..)waay different than the TGB I have here..just because it says Morini doesnt mean they are all alike!!