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Post by derbiman on Nov 18, 2015 18:40:14 GMT -5
Don't forget:More air in,more air out. You might want to open the exhaust up to get more air flow.
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Post by triesandluth on Nov 19, 2015 2:31:14 GMT -5
I've haphazardly drilled a few holes in the end already. Might get a pipe for it sometime.
Unfortunately I will have to ride it some. Something is dying on my super 9. I want to say it's the water pump bearings. I've been waiting for the rebuild kit since August. They told me it would be a month then said they weren't sure when and offered my money back. Now I need to start trying to get with them again to see if they'll ever get it. If not I'll need my money to go to racing planet for one.
I wonder if I would see any performance gained putting a slide carb I have around on this agility. I've got the throttle cable and a way to mount it to the intake....
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Post by Clank on Nov 19, 2015 2:43:51 GMT -5
Removing the emissions or PAIR junk, I decided that I'd try this since I don't have the blocking plates or all of the necessary tools to make my own. Take out the reed block from the valve cover  Remove the reeds  Place shorter reed over the hole  Torque really well  Then I checked to see it was without leaks with the trusty mouth pressure checker. No leaks. I'm contemplating using the other reed to block the hole on the head, but I'm not sure if it's necessary. The head of a 10mm bolt and some jb weld fits the PAIR exhaust port on the head pretty well also.. |
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Post by triesandluth on Nov 19, 2015 3:47:21 GMT -5
I thought of similar. I figured to just use what was already in my hands, and I like the chrome tube. Good to grab when the valve cover is hot if checking valves. And it's shiny. We all like shiny
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2015 23:20:45 GMT -5
I thought of similar. I figured to just use what was already in my hands, and I like the chrome tube. Good to grab when the valve cover is hot if checking valves. And it's shiny. We all like shiny If the valve cover is hot, then the engine is hot and valves should always be checked with the engine totally cold in order to get a true reading. The clearance numbers are based on a cold engine. You may already know this and, if so, then just ignore me, ha ha. Bill |
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Post by triesandluth on Nov 20, 2015 1:44:39 GMT -5
I thought of similar. I figured to just use what was already in my hands, and I like the chrome tube. Good to grab when the valve cover is hot if checking valves. And it's shiny. We all like shiny If the valve cover is hot, then the engine is hot and valves should always be checked with the engine totally cold in order to get a true reading. The clearance numbers are based on a cold engine. You may already know this and, if so, then just ignore me, ha ha. Bill Well actually, for some reason I thought it was supposed to be done on a warm engine. Not sure where I got that idea. I don't usually deal with valves. I'm just kinda winging this 4t thing. Lol. I'll see what happens. |
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Post by Clank on Nov 30, 2015 4:15:25 GMT -5
I thought of similar. I figured to just use what was already in my hands, and I like the chrome tube. Good to grab when the valve cover is hot if checking valves. And it's shiny. We all like shiny If the valve cover is hot, then the engine is hot and valves should always be checked with the engine totally cold in order to get a true reading. The clearance numbers are based on a cold engine. You may already know this and, if so, then just ignore me, ha ha. Bill Engine Cold- meaning room temperature 60-75°F! Don't do what I did and adjusted my valves when it was 34°F outside. Valves are to tight now and blowing fuel back into the carb. When I did then again due to winter weather I actually ran the motor till it was up to 65°. By the time I was putting the valve cover back on the motor was down to 42°F in 27°F weather... Just my 2 cents. |
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Post by triesandluth on Nov 30, 2015 8:30:42 GMT -5
If the valve cover is hot, then the engine is hot and valves should always be checked with the engine totally cold in order to get a true reading. The clearance numbers are based on a cold engine. You may already know this and, if so, then just ignore me, ha ha. Bill Engine Cold- meaning room temperature 60-75°F! Don't do what I did and adjusted my valves when it was 34°F outside. Valves are to tight now and blowing fuel back into the carb. When I did then again due to winter weather I actually ran the motor till it was up to 65°. By the time I was putting the valve cover back on the motor was down to 42°F in 27°F weather... Just my 2 cents. It was really cold when I did it as well, but I warmed it up, like I mentioned. Glad you didn't mess anything up! Learning experiences. I'm hoping the person I'm planning to buy a heap of parts from emails me today. I'd like to get this thing able to ride. It won't even start at the moment, but I haven't had the desire to take the seat off to mess with it. I've got too many scooter projects going on right now! |
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Post by Fox on Nov 30, 2015 9:32:27 GMT -5
Bigger gaps on the valve rockers will make the valves open less distance and duration which will restrict air flow through the chamber. In theory, .002 should give you better performance than .005  |
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 10, 2015 13:42:56 GMT -5
I may have just accidentally stumbled upon my problem with this scooter.
I haven't been able to get it to start since right after buying the battle scooter. I didn't investigate any further into today when I went to swap out the polini variator to my super 9, it's 8mm bigger than my malossi!
I was installing the malossi variator, pulled on the crank shaft, it moves either way a few millimeters, stopping with a clunk. At risk of sounding dumber than usual, WTF does that mean for it? It seemed right when I checked it at the connector rod. Now I find this... Guess it will get a stroker crank! I WILL make this bitch tough...
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 10, 2015 16:23:36 GMT -5
And it seems that this polini variator is not in good working order, which could have been a factor for it being slow as hell. On the Super 9 it shifts hard at about 28mph and throws the rpms down to the point of no performance. I guess I could try the center bushing replacement at some point.
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 10, 2015 16:28:56 GMT -5
Unless this little thing here that was wedged in a corner between the ramps may have caused an issue there doesn't seem to be too much play in the boss with it in the variator. This weighs next to nothing, though...  |
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Post by 190mech on Dec 10, 2015 19:30:50 GMT -5
My hats off to ya for messing with a 4T this long when a Super 9 is sitting next to it!!  |
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 10, 2015 19:42:36 GMT -5
My hats off to ya for messing with a 4T this long when a Super 9 is sitting next to it!! It's mainly been in the way. I was waiting for my end of a trade here to come through, only found that issue because I was scavenging for the Super 9 lol. I think they're all trying to turn on me now... |
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Post by triesandluth on Jan 19, 2016 8:22:42 GMT -5
I decided to try to start it this weekend after it's been a parts table for over a month. Battery was about dead, so I kicked it over, first kick started up, and stayed running. Last time I started it, it was playing hell with me, tried to leave me stranded on a quick errand and wouldn't start to save it's life. But now, surprise!
So I reassemble the cvt, let it get nice and warm, tuned the carb a bit, and rode it around the block. Made part of me want to keep it. But I still shouldn't.
But... I want to throw a bunch of performance scrap metal at it !!
Ehhhhhhh, I'll just clean it up real nice, sell it in the spring for parts money. Or at this rate my brother might commandeer it. This one he'll have to buy. He is riding it these few days that are not getting above freezing, the taotao throttle cable is still freezing, well, frozen. I told him that if one little thing happens to it that he's tacking 400 bucks onto his rent.
It feels good to have all four scoots in my driveway running at once. Kinda scares me...
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