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Post by birdman on Jan 3, 2016 15:35:11 GMT -5
I cant wait to see what you really do with this thing once you get past the whole inspection thing. 180cc?? 200cc?? 232cc??  |
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Post by cwazywazy on Jan 3, 2016 15:50:54 GMT -5
I'd love to see videos on you tuning this thing for max speed with BBKs and stuff.
Show all them two stroke enthusiasts whats up.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 3, 2016 19:48:01 GMT -5
I cant wait to see what you really do with this thing once you get past the whole inspection thing. 180cc?? 200cc?? 232cc?? I initially figured that sooner or later it would end up bored and stroked. I've looked around a bit. It gets expensive quick. After looking at the different cases, stroker kits, 4V heads, and all sorts of crazy stuff... I think most likely the bore will stick to 57 or 58.5mm for a while. I'll have to see what heads are out there for the bores of that size. Probably a cam. Mess with the timing. Can't forget the CVT. Even the "cheap" list is way more than I wanna spend or will spend right away. It may also depend how responsive it seems to be to what I do. I really need it to be capable of at least maintaining 55MPH to be useful to me. The more the better. I live on a 50MPH road and I'm not a big fan of going slower than everyone else. I don't think I'd even enjoy it if cars are piling up behind me and I'm WOT. I can do that on the TaoTao if I want. I'd love to see videos on you tuning this thing for max speed with BBKs and stuff. Show all them two stroke enthusiasts whats up. Most likely there will be vids. At minimum reports on the forum. I'm curious to see how this thing stands up next to my 2Ts with timed runs. Firing it up and revving it, it feels kinda weak next to what I'm used to with the 100cc 2Ts. If not weak, it just isn't the same as revving up a 2T. |
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Post by spaz12 on Jan 3, 2016 20:51:43 GMT -5
I'd love to see videos on you tuning this thing for max speed with BBKs and stuff. Show all them two stroke enthusiasts whats up. Good luck with that. One of my buddies has a 180 on his and my 08 Zuma with just an Athena, Leo pipe, 19mm carb and stock gears will dust his scooter until mine maxes out around 50 or so. Then he walks on me. Pretty sad though for almost triple the displacement. |
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Post by cwazywazy on Jan 3, 2016 21:06:41 GMT -5
I'd love to see videos on you tuning this thing for max speed with BBKs and stuff. Show all them two stroke enthusiasts whats up. Good luck with that. One of my buddies has a 180 on his and my 08 Zuma with just an Athena, Leo pipe, 19mm carb and stock gears will dust his scooter until mine maxes out around 50 or so. Then he walks on me. Pretty sad though for almost triple the displacement. Well, yeah, but.. reliability? I should buy a two stroke sometime. |
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Post by spaz12 on Jan 3, 2016 21:16:09 GMT -5
Not to hijack the thread, but the Zuma is very reliable the way it's set up.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 3, 2016 22:20:09 GMT -5
2Ts aren't the junk that they sometimes get credited for being. I probably don't help with all my parts breaking lately, but half of my stuff is old and worn out and I never buy much beyond Chinese or Taiwan made for my builds. My first 96cc went about 10,000 miles on the stock crank and I rode it WOT most of the time at near 10,000RPM. I'm not even sure how many miles are on my Autotech 70cc BBK and Naraku crank mild setup. Again WOT. I ride these things 8-9 hours straight at times and beat on them. Looking at big engines like big bikes and cars, 10,000 miles may not seem like a lot... but spin that big engine WOT for hours at a time and see how reliable it ends up being. I doubt this GY6 will be much more reliable than my 2Ts since it will lack power too and I'll have to run it hard to get it to do what I need it to do. I hope I'm wrong, because I certainly wouldn't mind it lasting for a very long time without me pulling it apart.
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Post by spaz12 on Jan 3, 2016 22:26:04 GMT -5
You probably already know to get a better crank for the 150. I'd also say to redo the mounting bracket on your pipe. I've never seen a motor eat a pipe the way those 150's do.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 6, 2016 14:02:53 GMT -5
The turn signals came in. They're a little stubbier than the old ones, and no joint to get wobbly over time.  I made a couple of brackets from a sheet of steel to go around the turn signal studs and hold the reflectors.  Mounted. The reflectors are in a position that is much more like most big name bikes required to be inspected now.    Now the only lighting or reflectors on the scoot that don't say DOT on them are the front reflectors. Hoping they don't notice or care.  I've gotta replace the turn signal relay. I thought it would just dry out and return to normal, but no such luck. It's still clicking randomly while off. Twice when I turned the signals on to check they stayed steady. The rest of the time they flashed as normal. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 8, 2016 23:17:17 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 15, 2016 22:22:27 GMT -5
The manual fuel shutoff came in, and it fits the tank.   Aha! Fuel in the lines.  I noticed a leak and then figured out that the tygon hose I put on the bowl drain was torn right at the nipple on the bowl. I probably did it trying to maneuver the carb between the mount and the intake. I intended to use standard thick walled fuel line there, but didn't have any in 3/16". I was out of 3/16" tygon and wanted to get more of it as well, so I just ordered from McMaster Carr. When I bought "tygon" from other places in the past, it hasn't lasted like what I get from McMaster. It will harden up way faster that it should. While I was browsing, I got the bright idea to get some "good" clamps for the lines so I bought a pack of 100 (smallest pack) constant tension clamps that match up to the OD of the tygon. I don't like the clamps at all. They feel very solid. They're hard to squeeze. They seem like they should do a good job. After I install them, they're loose. I thought I must be squeezing them too much when installing, so I carefully installed a couple more. Same thing. I gave up and went back to Chinese clamps and worm gear clamps.  With the leak stopped, I fired the scoot up to tune the idle mixture and speed. I hooked up the TTO "tuning tach" to help fine tune it.  To get the best idle, the screw had to be dangerously loose from being turned out so much. I hadn't expected it to be lean, since it was the same pilot that was used with a K&N filter. I also noticed that I couldn't get it to rev very well. Sometimes it would even die when I tried to rapidly go from idle to WOT. Covering the inlet of the airbox would allow it to rev quickly, so I concluded that it was lean. I thought the pilot was too small from the need for the mixture screw to be so far out, so I decided to just change it first. I swapped from a 38 to a 42 pilot jet. Then the idle mixture adjustment worked much better. Turning the screw all the way in killed the engine and turning it out very far beyond 1.5 turns out enriched it enough that it ran poorly and/or died. No luck on the bog to WOT though. When I was changing the pilot jet, I didn't think the proper amount of fuel came out of the bowl. It didn't seem like much. I began to be suspicious of the float height or fuel system. Before pulling the carburetor back off to check the float height, I wanted to try a couple of things. First, I tried richer a richer needle setting and that wouldn't cure it. Then I turned my attention to fuel flow. I removed the fuel hose from the carb and let it drain into a graduated container for exactly one minute. Flow looked sufficient to me, though it seemed slower than what I'm used to from some other scoots. 160ml drained in 1 minute. That converts to 9.6l/hr or 2.54gal/hr or 16.1lb/hr. I don't exactly know the BSFC of these engines, but that sounds like more than enough to me. Then I thought perhaps the routing of the fuel hoses is hurting flow, since for the test I had it nearly straight down from petcock to container. I put a smaller graduated container in position so the hoses were routed as close as I could get them to how they are with the carb. Then I got 140ml/min or 8.4l/hr or 2.22gal/hr or 14.1lb/hr. Down a little, but it still seemed like more than enough fuel for less than 10HP. I even tried draining through the float bowl drain hose directly to see if that changed. It did drop another 5ml/min, but I think that was due to my error trying to get everything positioned and I probably lost a bit. The carb came back off and I swapped the 110 main jet for a 115, the same jet that it used with a K&N. The K&N setup was even last tuned when it was cold, so I expected that jetting to be too much for the stock airbox. I checked out the float while I was in there and all seemed well. I even set it just a touch higher to be sure. I fired it up and again it would not rev. I got an unlit propane torch and checked for changes in idle to see if there was a leak. Nothing. Before I burned it for being a witch, I thought I better set the needle back to the middle where it was before I richened it earlier. Finally it revved! I adjusted the idle mix again and it ran smooth and revved well. I took a lap around the yard to be sure it worked under load. I went over the scooter again to make sure I didn't forget anything. Lights worked and so on. I did notice that the fuel gauge was now doing as it pleased. It randomly varied from E to F and in between. Unless there's a law that all original gauges must function, it shouldn't need a fuel gauge since very many motorcycles don't have them. Then I put the body back together. I got some pics now, because it's only a matter of time before I destroy the panels or just don't use them.    EDIT : Some random info. I thought about removing the Hotrod-Hell.Net stickers, but figured I'd leave them for now. It's my old car site that I started on long before scoots and gave up on shortly after scoots. I made a few of my first tech pages back then, but really got into it when I found scoots and scoot forums. Here are a few that the wayback machine saved... Free & Cheap Fox Mustang Mod GuideHinding Engine Bay Wiring (Unfortunately Not Updated After More Extensive Work)Rough Idle HelpStero/HVAC Relocation |
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Post by 'O'Verse on Jan 16, 2016 0:11:31 GMT -5
Looks better now than it did brand new....
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Post by triesandluth on Jan 16, 2016 14:48:11 GMT -5
I hate the 4t carbs. I had an issue with too much airflow causing the diaphragm to force the needle up too quickly and bog to the point of dying. Actually helped a 2t owner buddy fix a friends 4t he tried to mod the airbox on. Plugged up a few of the holes he created and it acted just fine.
4t's deserve to be witch burned. End of story.
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 2, 2016 12:59:26 GMT -5
I took it in today and passed state inspection. I'll just say it was easier than I expected.  |
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Post by spaz12 on Feb 2, 2016 16:25:42 GMT -5
Very nice. Now onto the coveted MC license  |
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