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Post by 190mech on Aug 20, 2016 19:28:02 GMT -5
Yee Haa!Gotta chase those gremlins out one at a time!!
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 20, 2016 22:38:51 GMT -5
Took you long enough  |
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Post by niz76 on Aug 21, 2016 0:50:44 GMT -5
Took you long enough IKR! It sat for so long that the gas went bad! It also drained the gear oil slowly over the course of a month due to the new (blue) rear seal I put in it last time I had the engine up on the bench. Luckily I didn't damage the old seal that was in it- that didn't leak- and just put the old seal back in and problem solved. Of course this leakage led to the clutch plates not working properly and the kick start lever just started slipping when I'd tried to start it. This went on for a few weeks of loosening/tightening the clutch cable etc. but has cleared up now that I've run it a few times and got the oil sloshing back around in there. Right now the throttle cable is damaged and sticking so I'm waiting on the new one I ordered to arrive. So many steps backward that I never even wrote about that I was really getting beat down by this thing! Add on top of that the thought of spending another $400 or so to replace the entire ignition system and the fun of it all was kinda sucked away. So it sat. I took it for a spin around the neighborhood tonight and she's lifting the front tire if I hit 2nd gear hard enough. Of course I was worried that it would seize considering I'm running the broken Grand Sport piston in it, but the most recent ball honing must've loosened up the tolerances just enough that it didn't even at 360 degrees. I'm finally getting kinda excited about the ol' Vespa again and that makes it sooo much easier to spend time and $$ on it! I even drank a beer after that ride as a celebration of sorts lol.   |
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Post by niz76 on Aug 30, 2016 22:54:38 GMT -5
Throttle cable FINALLY showed up. Now I can get the show back on the road!  I also ordered a snakehead!  |
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Post by niz76 on Aug 31, 2016 0:15:18 GMT -5
Your port timing change has me scratching my head!More deck clearance should mean a dome below the ports at BDC(shorter pin to piston crown height,but NO!Shorter crown height is like stacking base gaskets=more duration..But we have less duration???STRANGE!! Having a lot of squish clearance invites detonation as the flame front can easily move from the combustion chamber to the piston edges,,not what we want... Exactly! I really wish I would've compared the two pistons side-by-side. I would pull the Grand Sport piston back out but I painstakingly prepped the sealing surfaces so nicely, and the copper spray on the head too... I just don't want to undo all that nice work lol. If I look back at the older pics I think I can see that the Grand Sport piston is actually a little bit taller. It doesn't go as far below the ports as the Polini did, and also doesn't sit quite as far below deck as the Polini piston did, therefore I lost a few degrees of duration...      , I think I found the answer to what happened to my timings here on page 36 of Bell's book: " On some engines fitted with Dykes rings, the top piston ring and not the piston
crown controls the opening and closing of the exhaust and transfer ports" My original Polini piston had the Dykes ring at the top, but the new GS does not use dykes rings and has regular rings but situated lower on the piston. I guess I'm still a little confused as I basically just use the method of shining a flashlight up the exhaust port and start my duration measuring as precisely as I can get to where I see the light/the port opens. Using this method I would think I would get the correct measurements no matter if it's the piston crown or the edge of the dykes ring opening the port?? Hmmm.... |
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Post by niz76 on Aug 31, 2016 0:28:32 GMT -5
Ok, I just thought about it reeaall hard (steam coming out my ears now!).
If it was the dykes ring opening the port- that ring was a little below the piston crown, which would be like stacking base gaskets...
Now, the GS piston crown is opening the port which is higher than the dykes ring was so that's like taking away base gaskets... and therefore lowering my durations. Dangit!
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Post by niz76 on Aug 31, 2016 0:34:38 GMT -5
Ideally, you want to control compression via the combustion chamber design and keep the squish tight. Real world testing on my Minarelli junk, I couldn't tell the difference either way... but still I try to open up chambers these days just to go with what should be best by theory and the experience of people that know more about it than I ever will. Only took me like 2 years of messing with this crap but I'm finally starting to understand this more advanced stuff better- The big mistake I made was skimming the head to lower squish, but never re-corrected the compression ratio via combustion chamber = high speed seizes! lol You tried to tell me but I just didn't get it! |
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Post by niz76 on Aug 31, 2016 0:40:54 GMT -5
Having a lot of squish clearance invites detonation as the flame front can easily move from the combustion chamber to the piston edges,,not what we want... Again, more advise that was over-my-head at the time. Gotta have that tighter squish to keep the heat off the edge of the piston. Bear with me fellas- reading Bell for the 2nd time and light bulbs are finally going off! lol   |
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Post by niz76 on Aug 31, 2016 23:46:44 GMT -5
Ok, time to change out this throttle cable! Ya think this might be the problem?? Haha  I've read a few different methods of pulling a new cable through the frame. I've chosen the most risky one... New cable taped up tight to the old cable with clear packing tape.  Say your prayers that it doesn't break somewhere inside the frame and puullll... Success!  Shoot that was easy! Took all of about ten seconds. Sheesh the way those MV guys talk this is some big hassle that requires all kinds of crazy different methods. eh, I guess they're not exactly the sharpest tools in the shed over there hehe.   So I got the nice new, smooth working cable in but it's not made for a PWK and it's too short. I already knew this as I had to solder on additional length to the original one, but I'm hesitant to do it now because I have the Snakehead on the way. I'm not exactly sure how that throttle head works so for now I guess I'll just wait a little longer until it arrives.... |
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Post by spaz12 on Aug 31, 2016 23:57:16 GMT -5
Cable looked just fine  |
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Post by niz76 on Sept 1, 2016 23:27:43 GMT -5
Snakehead arrived today! Kudos to Jet200Performance for super quick shipping!  I wasn't exactly sure how to install it at first and looked all over the net for some installation instructions. Couldn't find any. Here's the instructions that came with it- to be honest I'm really not sure if they're installation instructions at all. What does a base gasket have to do with this?? lol...  I eventually realized that it's really not all that mysterious of a gizmo- you just feed the throttle cable through it and screw it on. That's it! It's really just nothing more than a pulley or fulcrum for the cable to slide against. Super simple. Kudos to Crazy Monkey Development for getting me to cough up sixty bux for such a simple item haha. Installation is easy but this was a time consuming project for me. Unlike the big 90 degree tube bend I was using, I didn't have to solder on extra length to the throttle cable to make it work with my PWK. What I wouldn't give for just one more measly inch as there's absolutely no extra length to work with but although I didn't have any problems with my old cable (well, until it started unraveling inside the sheath) worrying about a spliced together throttle cable as you get further and further away from home is just no bueno. After cutting and grinding to get just the right length of the inner cable exposed and installing and uninstalling and adjusting and drilling new holes and blah blah blah. It's in and I'm happy with it. Hey, maybe now I can use that 90 degree tube bend to install a remote choke cable. Nahhh- I never use the choke on any of my scoots anyway. Finally ready to ride again!  |
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Post by spaz12 on Sept 2, 2016 3:38:45 GMT -5
That Snakehead is simple, but ingenious. Looks pretty cool to boot  |
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Post by niz76 on Sept 3, 2016 19:18:06 GMT -5
After riding around for a bit today the idle speed keeps racing on me. Grrr. It's the throttle cable. It's just a hair too short. The carb slide is buttery smooth and works flawlessy so no issues there. I can push the slide down just a few more mm's with my finger, but it just won't go down low enough on it's own in real world riding conditions. I've even stretched out the carb spring for a little more oomph, but bottom line is I need to either figure a way to splice just a little more length in- I really didn't want to do that- or I need a new longer cable. I'm researching little trunnion screws so I wouldn't have to replace the outer-just the inner. Or, good ol' Crazy Monkey guys also just made another new product for the Wasps to make life a little easier- 'The Sloth'. With this thing I could just get a longer cable and feed it through and then just trim off the extra length and not have to worry about having a "nipple" on the end...
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Post by ryan_ott on Sept 3, 2016 19:51:31 GMT -5
How does it attach to the throttle tube? Same as other bikes with a solder barrel? If the throttle tube has the triangle stop as most of these scoots have could you trim that to give you some extra slack??
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Post by 190mech on Sept 3, 2016 20:01:44 GMT -5
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