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Post by Reign on Mar 29, 2011 14:32:08 GMT -5
Cut brass tubing? I'm doing a bit of Frankensteining to make the carb fit with the stock throttle cable. I figured out what I need to do, but I need to slice off the threaded tube on the top of a stock carb and use it as an extender. What's the easiest way to cut a brass tube like that without crimping the end?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 29, 2011 14:40:24 GMT -5
Hacksaw or tubing cutter.
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Post by Reign on Mar 29, 2011 14:47:41 GMT -5
I was thinking the hacksaw. I guess I'll try that seeing I don't have a tubing cutter. Here's my plan: Both are nearly the same length:  Until you add this:  I attempted to take that piece off of the stock cable, but then its too LONG instead of too SHORT. So my idea is to do this:  And use that piece, in conjunction with the stock threaded piece. It slides perfectly inside of the end of the new carb. |
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Post by drawkward on Mar 29, 2011 15:12:07 GMT -5
Problem solver; you are. How are you going to seal the stock piece when you slide it inside the new carb's cable guide (for lack of a better term; I can't remember what it's called at the moment); solder? Or are you going to tap and die the stock piece to thread into your new carb?
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Post by Reign on Mar 29, 2011 15:40:39 GMT -5
I don't think I should have an issue with it having to be sealed, should I? The rubber pieces on my stock carb have worn away long ago, so it was never sealed to begin with. Is it really going to create that much of a problem if I just do it how I did? If the answer is yes, could I just throw a piece of shrink-tubing on it all after it's all set up?
Another question for you guys. Bad video, sorry, but it's the best I could do at the moment:
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Post by drawkward on Mar 29, 2011 15:57:41 GMT -5
They have the rubber pieces for a reason. If you think about it; if not sealed properly, it's essentially an open passage way going to the top of the slide, which has a hole for the cable, and for the needle. A leak is a leak.
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Post by Reign on Mar 29, 2011 15:59:16 GMT -5
They have the rubber pieces for a reason. If you think about it; if not sealed properly, it's essentially an open passage way going to the top of the slide, which has a hole for the cable, and for the needle. A leak is a leak. True. I guess I'll throw a piece of shrink tubing on there after I get it all set up the way it should be. |
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Post by drawkward on Mar 29, 2011 16:01:03 GMT -5
Every slide should have a gap at the bottom. That's what your idle screw controls. How far the slide sits from the bottom at rest. Couldn't tell you what you should do yet. I'd say fire it up and see where your idle is at. If your idle is too low, and you need to turn your idle screw to get it to idle, then you are in luck. If your idle is too high, then you need to shorten that piece a little more and try again.
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Post by stepthrutuner on Mar 29, 2011 19:05:21 GMT -5
What you need to do is trim some of the throttle cable shielding back so you will have more exposed cable within the thimble and down to the bottom of the throttle slide. You don't have enough now. That is limiting your slide travel. At full twist of the throttle the slide should not be exposed at all at the top of the throttle passage (venturi). When the twist grip is released the slide should rest on the tapered end of the idle speed adjust screw. There should be a smidgen of slack in the cable when the slide is resting on the idle speed adjust screw.
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Post by Reign on Mar 29, 2011 21:31:38 GMT -5
After testing again without the camera, I noticed that the highest point that the slide reached in the video, is actually as far up as it can possibly go. I twisted the throttle all the way open, and tried to push it up further with my finger, but it wouldnt budge. Is that normal?
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Post by stepthrutuner on Mar 29, 2011 21:40:47 GMT -5
No. It should push up enough to completely open up the passage.
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Post by Fox on Mar 29, 2011 21:58:26 GMT -5
Probably late but I'd do it with a Dremel tool a cut-off wheel.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 29, 2011 22:00:45 GMT -5
Take the cable off, put the slide in the carb, put the cap on, and flip it upside down. If it doesn't clear the path through the carb completely at that point, examine everything till you find out why. If it opens all the way at that point, you need to go back to looking at your cable setup.
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Post by Reign on Mar 30, 2011 8:55:01 GMT -5
Inspection this morning with the carb off of the cable shows that the spring is the culprit. It can't compress far enough to allow the slide to go all the way up the chute. If I go to a shorter spring, will it have any adverse effects on the lower end?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 30, 2011 9:05:59 GMT -5
As long as the spring has plenty of tension to return the slide to idle, it should be fine.
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