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Post by lostforawhile on Aug 30, 2018 21:58:21 GMT -5
Follow the link I listed for various connectors. I have had very good luck with the Wago connectors in high vibration environments. Solder flux is an acid and we normally don't clean it off of connections. I have seen it cause a lot of corrosion problems. I wonder what the navy uses for connections nowadays? rosin core solder is fine, you are probably talking acid core solder, which is for pipes |
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Post by FrankenMech on Aug 30, 2018 22:29:03 GMT -5
I know the difference between acid core solder for metal work and rosin core used for electronic assy. As I have mentioned before, rosin core solder flux is an acid, just a very weak one. We clean it off aerospace and Mil-spec assemblies to avoid corrosion but normal connections don't get as much attention.
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wahlman
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 111
Location: Miami, Florida
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Post by wahlman on Sept 1, 2018 12:10:54 GMT -5
I hate soldering, I am just awful at it and get a sloppy job. I soldered some wires on a car speaker and 2 weeks later the speaker stopped working because the connection came apart. And consider that a scooter will have WAY more vibration than a car will so wiring nuts like you use on a ceiling fan are a no-no and same with twisting 2 wires together and using electrical tape or liquid electrical tape. All of those are no-no's
I prefer to use crimp caps (like car stereo installers) or Posi twists. Even butt connectors if I have some laying around. But if purchasing online you can find crimp caps 100 of them for 3 dollars. That is alot cheaper than butt connectors or especially Posi connectors.
But mostly crimp caps because they are so cheap and fast to attach.
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Post by FrankenMech on Sept 1, 2018 21:21:06 GMT -5
Use high quality name brand crimp connectors. The cheap versions do not use the right metal alloy and lose their 'grip' on the wires over time. Use silicone dielectric grease on the connections for extra corrosion and oxidation protection.
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Oct 8, 2018 0:27:21 GMT -5
I use crimp caps in clear . They are not pretty but they are a solid connection and quick . I also use solid butt connectors and heat shrink solder .  |
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Post by FrankenMech on Oct 8, 2018 10:32:00 GMT -5
Dip your wires in silicone dielectric grease before you crimp them in those clear crimp caps. It gives extra protection from moisture, oxidation, and corrosion. Again, using name brand crimp connectors avoids many metallurgical problems.
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Post by milly on Oct 18, 2018 13:24:47 GMT -5
I'm a heathen,I just twist the wires together and wrap them in electrical tape 😊
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phatmanxxl
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 484
Location: Missoura
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Post by phatmanxxl on Nov 18, 2018 17:10:56 GMT -5
I just solder the connections and shrink wrap them and be done with it, tired of failed connectors etc. That's what I do, it's worth the extra time to do it right than have to find where the spliced wire came apart. |
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phatmanxxl
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 484
Location: Missoura
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Post by phatmanxxl on Nov 18, 2018 17:11:58 GMT -5
I'm a heathen,I just twist the wires together and wrap them in electrical tape 😊 Use duct tape like a boss. |
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Post by diynuke on Nov 19, 2018 4:41:44 GMT -5
I just solder the connections and shrink wrap them and be done with it, tired of failed connectors etc. That's what I do, it's worth the extra time to do it right than have to find where the spliced wire came apart. And its also what I do now.. I am done searching that 1 connector that isn't making contact. and soldering is pretty darn fast. just strip the wire wrap around it add some solder and heat and  its an connection which lasts ages. and if you want to do it correctly well yeah you would need to clean it afterwards. but still if you didn't clean it. it will still last for centuries. And I like to use vulcanizing isolation tape afterwards. (with more permanent connections) And with temporary connections just normal tape which is way easier to remove of course ;D after all soldering it is.. |
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Post by diynuke on Nov 19, 2018 4:43:48 GMT -5
I use crimp caps in clear . They are not pretty but they are a solid connection and quick . I also use solid butt connectors and heat shrink solder . Personaly I hate these. ive seen plenty of these come loose in some scooters. which of course is because of they didn't crimp them correctly or the material is pretty bad. but still soldering is more reliable. and otherwise I would trust my life on wago connectors. but those aren't practical when splicing into cable's |
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Post by SMALL CC TEK on Nov 19, 2018 13:48:43 GMT -5
Yeah point taken but if you're that laim and you mess up a clear crimp cap you need help anyway ! You think a solder connection can be accomplished by the same person that screwed up the crip cap ? And your not working on a F35 where your life depends on it i hope with a crimp cap ! lol Make it work with whatever you have is my point !
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Post by benji on Nov 20, 2018 9:21:26 GMT -5
Use high quality name brand crimp connectors. The cheap versions do not use the right metal alloy and lose their 'grip' on the wires over time. Use silicone dielectric grease on the connections for extra corrosion and oxidation protection. This is true. I do (on average) roughly 100-150 electrical connections per day, and I ONLY use 3m connectors. Solder is what my great grandpa used, before 3m and other military and aerospace suppliers came up with better stuff. Wire nuts are inferior, so are solder joints. Butt connectors the highest quality connection that has the least amount of resistance. It's been tested actually. Electrons move on the outside of the wire strand, not inside. That's why more strands are better. But if you solder, you essentially slow down the electrons by forcing them to 'merge' into each other's paths. butt connectors don't do this when properly crimped. Also, temperature and vibration are huge factors. These scooters move around and vibrate when running, stay outside in lots of weather, get hot then get cold, and sometimes get wet. Solder joints crack with very little vibration and can sever with temperature changes. If they don't crack, they weren't soldered properly and are allowing movement in the joint, which will promote the wire strands severing. Soldering is basically a form of metalurgy, and it's complicated science. It's great for welding without electricity, but it's got many drawbacks Also, for t-style splicing, "scotch locks" suck. 3m t-taps and quality insulated spade connections work great for years when properly executed. 3M put millions of dollars of military money in R&D into these connectors for years. Who Are you going to trust, 3M or some backyard mechanic and his soldering iron? |
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Post by bullybike on Jul 15, 2019 21:45:30 GMT -5
LEARN TO SOLDER YOU LAZY SOB!
WIRE NUTS😆😆😆😗😆😆😗
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Post by bullybike on Jul 15, 2019 21:48:14 GMT -5
And to Benji
Learn to solder CORRECTLY, sir.
You twist and then heat wire until solder saturates.
No amount of vibration matters.
And electrons "merging"?😆 sounds scientific.
Trust your local backyard scooter mechanic,
Nothing is as durable or corrosion resistant as a solid soldered joint. [And economical]
FIN
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its an connection which lasts ages. and if you want to do it correctly well yeah you would need to clean it afterwards. but still if you didn't clean it. it will still last for centuries.
