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Post by thxcuz on Sept 21, 2016 21:10:11 GMT -5
As I stated in a previous post I swapped out an engine for the one I screwed up.
The replacement, which was older had 2 bolts on the engine mount, one on each side. The replacement had one long bolt.
The 2 bolts were easier to get in so I re used those. Is the long bolt more stable?
Just wondering
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Post by humanshield on Sept 21, 2016 21:19:10 GMT -5
I think either way is ok as long as they tighten securely.
I see the one long bolt most often TBH
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Post by thxcuz on Sept 21, 2016 21:22:42 GMT -5
It's kind of frightening when you think the only thing keeping the bike from falling in on itself is a peice of Chinese steel
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2016 22:05:56 GMT -5
It's kind of frightening when you think the only thing keeping the bike from falling in on itself is a peice of Chinese steel Get used to it...there are a lot of parts that if they failed, would make for a very bad experience, ha ha. Just think, all of them passed Chinese quality Control too. That gif that gxr600 uses with the guy riding over his own front wheel after his forks broke was a real wake up call for me. I mean, Holy Crap! Wear a helmet. Bill |
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phatmanxxl
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 484
Location: Missoura
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Post by phatmanxxl on Sept 21, 2016 22:25:16 GMT -5
It's kind of frightening when you think the only thing keeping the bike from falling in on itself is a peice of Chinese steel Get used to it...there are a lot of parts that if they failed, would make for a very bad experience, ha ha. Just think, all of them passed Chinese quality Control too. That gif that gxr600 uses with the guy riding over his own front wheel after his forks broke was a real wake up call for me. I mean, Holy Crap! Wear a helmet. Bill |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2016 22:34:14 GMT -5
Yes, that's the one. When I first saw it, I thought his wheel just fell off...but NO. I did a freeze frame photo of the event and blew it up and you can see about half the forks are still bolted to the front wheel as he rides over it. Holy Crap!
Bill
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Sept 21, 2016 23:21:55 GMT -5
And engine bracket bolt snapped on my brother's Ruckus. Sent him skidding into oncoming traffic. No injuries luckily.
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Post by FrankenMech on Sept 21, 2016 23:50:00 GMT -5
I think the long bolt or rod all the way through improves stability in the joint.
My scoot uses a long full diameter rod through the engine mounts with a washer and cotter pin on both ends. It really seems to work well.
The trick with bolts that are loaded in shear like the engine to frame bolts is getting the load to bear on the full diameter shank of the bolt, -not the threads. This is difficult with metric bolts because many of them are threaded all the way to the head. US bolts are now being made with the thread all the way to the head. Sometimes that is a nice 'feature' in that I can cut off a long bolt to make a short one thus reducing the number of bolts I keep in 'inventory' in the bolt bin. Unfortunately that leaves any bolt in shear on the threads which both increases the wear rate on the threaded portion and it also reduces the cross section of the bolt dramatically.
Socket head cap screws can be used to get a bolt with a shank long enough to bear the shear loads. I have used washers under the nut to keep a bolt from bearing the load on the threads when tightened. SHCS are also much better steel, even the China ones.
The bolt classification numbers on Chinese bolts are highly suspect to me. Whenever I bolt parts back together I try to use a better grade of bolts from a reputable supplier. The Chinese grade 8.8 bolts seem to be about as strong as a grade 2 US bolt (no marks).
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Post by thxcuz on Sept 22, 2016 7:06:30 GMT -5
And engine bracket bolt snapped on my brother's Ruckus. Sent him skidding into oncoming traffic. No injuries luckily. Wow. On a Honda even |
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Post by thxcuz on Sept 22, 2016 10:35:47 GMT -5
Frank,
Good advice.
I'll head to my local Ace or True Value and get a grade 8 bolt that isn't all thread. The cotter pin isn't a bad idea either
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Post by FrankenMech on Sept 23, 2016 1:00:51 GMT -5
The hardware store will also have cold-roll steel rod that you can cut to length and drill for cotter pins. They may also have TGP (turned ground and polished) shafting.
I keep steel rod and all-thread in all diameters up to 3/4" in my metal stock bin along with 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4" TGP. Small diameters are usually piano wire. My collection is from buying two pieces even though I only needed one and buying longer lengths than needed. I do kind of the same thing with bolts and nuts. Buy 100 instead of just 10 etc. Sometimes I can't because cash is short. I also figure it costs me $5 just to go to the store in fuel and wear on whatever I am driving, even a scoot.
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Post by gsx600racer on Sept 23, 2016 1:56:38 GMT -5
Get used to it...there are a lot of parts that if they failed, would make for a very bad experience, ha ha. Just think, all of them passed Chinese quality Control too. That gif that gxr600 uses with the guy riding over his own front wheel after his forks broke was a real wake up call for me. I mean, Holy Crap! Wear a helmet. Bill Hey, I know dude. Sorta. lol |
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