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Post by scooterpimp on Jan 7, 2018 20:53:36 GMT -5
L.e.d. 's prefer dc voltage. Most led headlight setups are rectified & regulated. & wothout a led reflector they dont really project a beam well.
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Post by lostforawhile on Jan 7, 2018 21:49:28 GMT -5
the light power is already rectified and regulated, it's just half wave rectified, it's a simple matter of running it through a bridge rectifier if you want full wave
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Post by Raizer on Jan 8, 2018 4:41:09 GMT -5
Just be careful running the AC through a bridge rectifier.
I've got an LED spotlight on my Let's wired through a bridge rectifier on the AC circuit, when I flick it on my the voltmeter on my DC circuit shows the voltage goes way up!
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Post by lilpinny on Jan 8, 2018 11:02:50 GMT -5
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jan 9, 2018 9:25:53 GMT -5
Lost, do you have a wiring schematic that shows the stator voltage going to a regulator/rectifier and then to the bulb filament? The schematics I have seen show the raw voltage for the headlight coming directly from the stator, which would be AC voltage. If it passes through the regulator/rectifier, it would then be DC, pulsed or bumpy, but DC in that it did not ever flip negative, which AC would do.
I think adding a capacitor to the output of the regulator/rectifier would help even out some of the bumps or 'ripple' in the DC voltage. I read somewhere to add a 47uf/35v electrolytic, connected between the output and ground. It will 'store' a bit of voltage when the pulse is produced, and then 'release' it as the pulse drains away, keeping the effective voltage up a bit between pulses.
Lilpenny, that kit still requires 9-32V DC. I am pretty sure the stator output that goes to the headlight socket is not rectified, and is not DC, and is not regulated. I have not connected a meter or O-scope to verify. The schematics I have seen do not run all the stator output through the regulator/rectifier, and the headlight wiring is just one feed of stator output that bypasses the regulator/rectifier. Therefor, it is AC current. I really would like to see a schematic or wiring diagram that shows the headlight is getting power that has passed through the regulator/rectifier. The headlights that come on when the key is turned to ON likely are running on DC voltage, from the battery, or from the regulator/rectifier, as there is no AC available when the engine is stopped.
IOW, if your headlight comes on with key ON, then you have a DC fed headlight, and can use the LCD replacements with little to no problem.
OTOH, if your headlight does NOT come on with key ON, then it is connected directly to stator output, unfiltered AC current. It likely gets brighter as rpms increase, which also indicates it is un-regulated, and 99% likely to be AC. All three machines I have will NOT light the headlight until the engine is running, FWIW.
tom
Added:
It may be that the stator output is not real AC, but is very 'pulsed' DC. That would cause the headlight to flicker, especially moreso at lower rpms.
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Post by AtariGuy on Jan 10, 2018 1:27:48 GMT -5
Theres simple dc ripple filters using a couple ceramic caps and an inductor coil wrapped on a ferrite core. Google dc ripple filter schematic
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Post by gsx600racer on Jan 10, 2018 2:23:22 GMT -5
Lost, do you have a wiring schematic that shows the stator voltage going to a regulator/rectifier and then to the bulb filament? The schematics I have seen show the raw voltage for the headlight coming directly from the stator, which would be AC voltage. If it passes through the regulator/rectifier, it would then be DC, pulsed or bumpy, but DC in that it did not ever flip negative, which AC would do. I think adding a capacitor to the output of the regulator/rectifier would help even out some of the bumps or 'ripple' in the DC voltage. I read somewhere to add a 47uf/35v electrolytic, connected between the output and ground. It will 'store' a bit of voltage when the pulse is produced, and then 'release' it as the pulse drains away, keeping the effective voltage up a bit between pulses. Lilpenny, that kit still requires 9-32V DC. I am pretty sure the stator output that goes to the headlight socket is not rectified, and is not DC, and is not regulated. I have not connected a meter or O-scope to verify. The schematics I have seen do not run all the stator output through the regulator/rectifier, and the headlight wiring is just one feed of stator output that bypasses the regulator/rectifier. Therefor, it is AC current. I really would like to see a schematic or wiring diagram that shows the headlight is getting power that has passed through the regulator/rectifier. The headlights that come on when the key is turned to ON likely are running on DC voltage, from the battery, or from the regulator/rectifier, as there is no AC available when the engine is stopped. IOW, if your headlight comes on with key ON, then you have a DC fed headlight, and can use the LCD replacements with little to no problem. OTOH, if your headlight does NOT come on with key ON, then it is connected directly to stator output, unfiltered AC current. It likely gets brighter as rpms increase, which also indicates it is un-regulated, and 99% likely to be AC. All three machines I have will NOT light the headlight until the engine is running, FWIW. tom Added: It may be that the stator output is not real AC, but is very 'pulsed' DC. That would cause the headlight to flicker, especially moreso at lower rpms. Thank you. Well said. The lights, auto choke, and regulator are wired in parallel(yellow wire), so they all see AC voltage from the stator. The regulator on this circuit "shunts" excessive voltage to ground so you do not burn out the light bulbs. As rpm's increase, voltage increases hence the regulator is in parallel. So at wide open you can make 60+ volts without regulator. A bad regulator will burn out light bulbs due to over voltage till fixed. The regulator also converts voltage(ac) from the white wire and sends it out on the red wire(as modified dc voltage) to charge the battery. Electrolyte capacitors can be used to help remove "ripple" from rectified AC voltage to make a more stable "modified" DC voltage. There are tons of youtube vids explaining and showing above mentioned. |
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Post by diynuke on Jan 10, 2018 14:32:28 GMT -5
Lost, do you have a wiring schematic that shows the stator voltage going to a regulator/rectifier and then to the bulb filament? The schematics I have seen show the raw voltage for the headlight coming directly from the stator, which would be AC voltage. If it passes through the regulator/rectifier, it would then be DC, pulsed or bumpy, but DC in that it did not ever flip negative, which AC would do. I think adding a capacitor to the output of the regulator/rectifier would help even out some of the bumps or 'ripple' in the DC voltage. I read somewhere to add a 47uf/35v electrolytic, connected between the output and ground. It will 'store' a bit of voltage when the pulse is produced, and then 'release' it as the pulse drains away, keeping the effective voltage up a bit between pulses. Lilpenny, that kit still requires 9-32V DC. I am pretty sure the stator output that goes to the headlight socket is not rectified, and is not DC, and is not regulated. I have not connected a meter or O-scope to verify. The schematics I have seen do not run all the stator output through the regulator/rectifier, and the headlight wiring is just one feed of stator output that bypasses the regulator/rectifier. Therefor, it is AC current. I really would like to see a schematic or wiring diagram that shows the headlight is getting power that has passed through the regulator/rectifier. The headlights that come on when the key is turned to ON likely are running on DC voltage, from the battery, or from the regulator/rectifier, as there is no AC available when the engine is stopped. IOW, if your headlight comes on with key ON, then you have a DC fed headlight, and can use the LCD replacements with little to no problem. OTOH, if your headlight does NOT come on with key ON, then it is connected directly to stator output, unfiltered AC current. It likely gets brighter as rpms increase, which also indicates it is un-regulated, and 99% likely to be AC. All three machines I have will NOT light the headlight until the engine is running, FWIW. tom Added: It may be that the stator output is not real AC, but is very 'pulsed' DC. That would cause the headlight to flicker, especially moreso at lower rpms. Thank you. Well said. The lights, auto choke, and regulator are wired in parallel(yellow wire), so they all see AC voltage from the stator. The regulator on this circuit "shunts" excessive voltage to ground so you do not burn out the light bulbs. As rpm's increase, voltage increases hence the regulator is in parallel. So at wide open you can make 60+ volts without regulator. A bad regulator will burn out light bulbs due to over voltage till fixed. The regulator also converts voltage(ac) from the white wire and sends it out on the red wire(as modified dc voltage) to charge the battery. Electrolyte capacitors can be used to help remove "ripple" from rectified AC voltage to make a more stable "modified" DC voltage. There are tons of youtube vids explaining and showing above mentioned. Yes but when you use a full bridge rectifier and put it between it it will kick up the voltage. that's the problem i am having. and that's also probably due to the lower load on the circuit since the led draws 15\20w and the stock 35w and if you turn off your light's it will use a resistor to keep the voltage down. so i guess you only need to check how much power the led draws. Then make a full bridge rectifier with a filter cap. And add the aditional load to it then it should not spike above 32v but i think it depends on what regulator it is. and how it all is wired. i tried 5 regulators and all of them give me 15v at the battery altho the battery is very bad now it still should not charger above 14.2\14.6v so for this purpose a voltage stabilizer (step up step down converter) would be ideal then it should just accept any voltage and stabilize it and done. |
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Post by jackrides on Jan 12, 2018 18:41:36 GMT -5
On my Tao GY6 I've had the headlight overvolt issue. Looked into regulators/rects. Now I'm thinking the easy ,and cheap, way may be to simply put a (proper size) resistor from the wire between the stator and the Hi/Lo switch to ground. Purpose is to 'bleed off' excess current which will lower the voltage. Ohm's law and power law get a workout, but NBD. Thoughts?
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jan 14, 2018 14:03:55 GMT -5
Some have used the rectifier/regulators used on Kohler outdoor power equipment engines on their cycles. I think the cost of them compared to the Harley-Davidson product makes them very attractive.
I have considered using them in place of the selenium(I think) originally installed. I used to ride with both high and low beam powered on when riding at night, and I think the power output was a bit too low. Adding a good recent vintage rectifier regulator would have increased longevity, output, and kept the battery charged no matter what I did. Of course, the alternator outputs would have to be ganged together rather than kept separate.
I think a good proper sized rectifier regulator would handle the Taotao alternator output with no problem, just not the one factory installed or duplicates. Check the specs for amperage and voltage regulation capability before purchase or installation.
tom
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Post by harleyracer59 on May 30, 2018 19:00:22 GMT -5
you could always run a relay in headlight speedo bucket. original a/c headlight wire on trigger post and piggy back off any switched power on wire you like. few circuits to choose from in there.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Sept 10, 2019 21:51:02 GMT -5
drive.google.com/drive/folders/0By2rcNqfITkKdlYxWWY2Wm5nZ0kold chinese 35 watt motorcycle led projector kit. there is a threaded fitting on the back that screws off housing slides through bulb hole and you screw the nut back on and wire it up. high and low beam. i wanted more and went with a projector kit from a car i got for free when they got new headlights due to the lenses on the stock ones getting foggy. ballasts and bulbs went bad due to rain when it got knocked over but i used an led bulb that doesnt use a ballast and i have the best of both worlds. projector headlights and low power draw. both can run on stock electrical while still turning an electric water pump. can run pump and lights without battery hooked up at idle. thats a feat in my book. ive tried lots of headlight designs. this is current lights with a foggy lens i need to fix or replace. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RBT9PhkCx-qpxbVyp3Pg4r5EntCMQZbn
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Post by chehystpewpur on Sept 11, 2019 21:20:31 GMT -5
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