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Post by tinkeu on Jun 21, 2017 11:38:23 GMT -5
  So I currently have BA20D 25w bulb on my Derbi Atlantis 2003 and I drive lot at night on country roads, lots of deer around here so as you can imagine, I actually don't have a proper headlight for these conditions. I never played with lightning before so 2 questions here: 1- Can I just remove this socket and get a new bulb like this one HERE and plug the wire on the proper hi, low and ground header and make it work ? How will it affect the battery to switch from a 25w bulb to a 55w ? 2- Would THIS be a good upgrade considering it would be more simple not having to change the socket. Would a 12w led give that much better lighting than my actual 25w bulb ? Also open to suggestion and advice. Thank you very much, been learning a lot from all of you guys since the last year ! Edit: forgot to ask, my headlight have 2 extra hole for socket on each side of the center headlight that aren't used right now, would it be complicated or a good idea to populate them ? Can I just split the wire and share it with those ? |
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Post by Elektrey on Jun 21, 2017 13:31:28 GMT -5
Ok so you have a lot of things going on. First issue is the halogen you linked draws 55/60w and the bulb you have is 25w so don't think you'll be able to get that much power from your stator. Secondly the bulb is still a halogen bulb, you'd be better off with a xenon or led bulb. Your LED bulb you listed isn't 25w and I see no reason why you wouldn't want to at least keep the same wattage. Something like this www.ebay.com/itm/BA20D-25W-6500K-LED-Bulb-Hi-Lo-Beam-Headlight-Lamp-For-Motorbike-UTV-SUV-/112220244327?hash=item1a20d90967:g:u60AAOSw44BYXRUu&vxp=mtrMaybe someone here can tell you what wattage your battery/stator/engine setup could handle though and you might be able to get away with more than 25w. You can splice off the main headlight and put more headlights on the side but again this will draw more power than stock so no idea if it can handle it. I think the side sockets are probably for integrated turn signals just molded for other countries without the same "external" turn signal regulations the US has. |
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Post by tinkeu on Jun 21, 2017 13:57:47 GMT -5
And can I just take the wire i have on my socket and plug them on this one which look like an H4 socket ? |
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Post by lostforawhile on Jun 21, 2017 16:46:51 GMT -5
And can I just take the wire i have on my socket and plug them on this one which look like an H4 socket ? they make direct replacement LED bulbs for most bike lamp types, including the ones used on most Chinese scooters , they won't list them as the same wattage, because LEDs draw much less power, which is one of the great advantages. If it's a direct replacement it will be equivalent wattage but a much whiter light , you will probably save enough power to add something like an external high beam LED lamp. Less wattage drawn is a big deal on a bike depending on a stator |
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Post by lostforawhile on Jun 21, 2017 19:00:20 GMT -5
is yours the standard S2 type bulb? I found a bunch of LED replacements, but I'm not sure which are reputable brands, there are a lot of crap ones out there
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Post by tinkeu on Jun 21, 2017 19:02:36 GMT -5
is yours the standard S2 type bulb? I found a bunch of LED replacements, but I'm not sure which are reputable brands, there are a lot of crap ones out there   Not sure, I think I see S1 |
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Post by lostforawhile on Jun 21, 2017 19:07:41 GMT -5
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Post by tinkeu on Jun 21, 2017 19:21:14 GMT -5
I did something I should have done first  Search this forum, and the admin 90GTVert did a usefull post in the techical section of the forum: HERE |
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Post by lostforawhile on Jun 21, 2017 19:42:26 GMT -5
I did something I should have done first Search this forum, and the admin 90GTVert did a usefull post in the techical section of the forum: HEREI would go with the LED conversion, if there is room behind your light, you know an H4 type housing will fit and this kit is the same thing, the main problem on these scooters is the lack of power to run things, the LED is going to pull way less current then an H4 , it's going to take load off of your stator |
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Post by diynuke on Jun 22, 2017 13:51:15 GMT -5
I did something I should have done first Search this forum, and the admin 90GTVert did a usefull post in the techical section of the forum: HEREI would go with the LED conversion, if there is room behind your light, you know an H4 type housing will fit and this kit is the same thing, the main problem on these scooters is the lack of power to run things, the LED is going to pull way less current then an H4 , it's going to take load off of your stator depends the led i have is just draws just as much power an the old halogen bulb the biggest difference stays the light output xD so yeah or less powerful or just as strong |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 23, 2017 8:09:28 GMT -5
Since you said you're new to lighting upgrades, one more bit of advice here... don't handle the bulbs by the glass unless you wrap something clean around or maybe wear clean gloves. Oils from your fingers and heat can have negative effects on the glass. |
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Post by tinkeu on Jun 23, 2017 8:11:22 GMT -5
Since you said you're new to lighting upgrades, one more bit of advice here... don't handle the bulbs by the glass unless you wrap something clean around or maybe wear clean gloves. Oils from your fingers and heat can have negative effects on the glass. Tx, I thought it did matter only for led or xenon, but I get the point abut grease and heat. |
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Post by lostforawhile on Jun 23, 2017 8:24:50 GMT -5
Since you said you're new to lighting upgrades, one more bit of advice here... don't handle the bulbs by the glass unless you wrap something clean around or maybe wear clean gloves. Oils from your fingers and heat can have negative effects on the glass. Tx, I thought it did matter only for led or xenon, but I get the point abut grease and heat. that's mainly halogen, they get so hot the skin oil causes hot spots on the glass and they break, but clean the bulb with rubbing alcohol if you touched the glass anyway |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jan 5, 2018 22:06:55 GMT -5
I followed the link for the 'kit'. Where is the 9-32V DC going to come from? It is NOT plug-and-play, and adding the resistor pack will do nothing to supply direct current to operate the LED bulb array.
What I think should be installed is a relay and socket, the relay CONTROL winding connected to the ignition switch 'on' terminal that provides power to the brake light, other term to ground. The POWER lead should connect via fused wire to the battery terminal, and the LOAD lead connected to the LED bulb socket. Alternate connection would route the switched power though the headlight HI-LO beam switch.
I have not seen such a kit available, and the superbrightleds.com web site is deceptive in their wording(IMO). The requirement for DC is sort of hidden in the details, while the plug-and-play idea is upfront.
Someone that wants to make and sell a product could do worse than providing an actual 'plug and play' LED kit. Save the load on the stator while providing good lighting. I think the BA20D socket is what these machines use.
tom
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Post by lostforawhile on Jan 6, 2018 16:31:23 GMT -5
your stator voltage still goes through the regulator /rectifier it's still DC, it's called AC because it comes from the stator instead of the battery, I'm going to be up grading from an 8 pole single phase stator, to an 11 pole 3 phase, and regulator, this is the best upgrade you can probably do, so much more current available, if you wanted to, on the single phase stator, take the lighting wire, and run it through a full wave rectifier, instead of the factory half wave, after the regulator of course
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Search this forum, and the admin 90GTVert did a usefull post in the techical section of the forum:
