|
|
Post by stancejontland on Aug 12, 2017 20:50:34 GMT -5
What's up guys. So I've had a sub and amp for a long time and i was driving today and it just cut out and now it says protect. I checked the fuse and its fine. My ground seems to be fine. What do you think could it be ? Or is it a gonner.I recently hooked two speakers into it to make them louder. Do you think it was drawing to much and fried the amp?? Any input helps.
|
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Aug 12, 2017 21:10:03 GMT -5
Sounds like you may have damaged it. It all depends how you had the speakers wired, what their resistance equaled out to, and what resistance the amp wants to see.
|
|
|
|
Post by benji on Aug 12, 2017 21:19:34 GMT -5
More subwoofers wired incorrectly can lead to an improper ohm load, and if you didn't readjust your gain and lpf settings your amp could very well be overheating or even blown.
Disconnect the subwoofers and turn on the system. Does the protect light still come on? If so, possibly bad amp. If the protection light doesn't come on til you hook up the sub's, you got something wired wrong or your sub's are blown. Even if there brand new. Car audio electronics are like bbks, they can be destroyed within seconds if not wired properly.
I own a stereo shop up here in Seattle BTW haha.
|
|
|
|
Post by stancejontland on Aug 12, 2017 21:33:50 GMT -5
Disconnect the sub from what power? I just basicly ran wires into the sub wires go. I know it was probably a bad move. I was pressured into it lol now it just makes a popping noise.
|
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Aug 12, 2017 22:29:51 GMT -5
you wired in an extra sub to an existing amp, the amp is probably seeing two ohms or less, which it can't handle it's clipping so the amp goes into protect mode
|
|
|
|
Post by stancejontland on Aug 12, 2017 23:00:11 GMT -5
Ok so went out took my ground off then put it back secure. Tried with out the speaker wires into the box and without the remote wire. Turned my key it was green for 1 second then red. So how could I tell if my sub it self is blown? Or my amp. Without taking it apart. Taking the amp apart
|
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Aug 12, 2017 23:38:45 GMT -5
if the remote wire isn't hooked up the amp won't turn on
|
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Aug 12, 2017 23:47:56 GMT -5
if the remote is disconnected I'm trying to figure out why it's being affected by your key, your amp should be powered directly from the battery with a fuse within six inches of the terminal. The amp should always have power and is switched on and off by the remote lead
|
|
|
|
Post by benji on Aug 13, 2017 1:25:24 GMT -5
Some amps have auto turn-on circuits these days.
If your amp isn't connected to any speakers or subwoofers, and it still goes into protect mode, I'm sorry to say its very likely blown. I would take it to a shop and have it looked at if I were you.
|
|
|
|
Post by stancejontland on Aug 13, 2017 1:31:20 GMT -5
The amp it self is blown? Id rather have the cheapo amp blow then my speaker go.
|
|
|
|
Post by stancejontland on Aug 13, 2017 1:32:02 GMT -5
Soo basically was asking too much out of the amp and over worked it to death lol
|
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Aug 13, 2017 8:12:46 GMT -5
Some amps have auto turn-on circuits these days. If your amp isn't connected to any speakers or subwoofers, and it still goes into protect mode, I'm sorry to say its very likely blown. I would take it to a shop and have it looked at if I were you. he said it had a remote lead |
|
|
|
Post by benji on Aug 13, 2017 13:39:53 GMT -5
Amplifiers sometimes come with auto turn-on circuits but still have a spot for a remote wire. A direct connection for a turn-on lead is usually more reliable than auto turn-on circuits, but when an amp goes bad all kinds of random stuff can happen, including the amp turning on and off at random times or activating different circuitry through back feeding voltage coming from failed internal components.
At least, that's my opinion.
|
|
