Parts washer solvent-or-water filtration

[FrankenMech]

I have a Harbor Freight 20 gallon parts washer that I picked up. I am looking at modifying it to add a regular spin-on oil filter. HF recommends using a water base detergent for their unit. That may be out of legal liability concerns, OSHA, and the EPA.

I hear that the water base cleaners really do not work well unless it is hot water.

I also hear that the water base degreasers will destroy the filter element in the spin on filters.

The pump that is used does not seem to care whether water base fluid or solvent is used.

This same parts washer seems to be marketed under several brand names. All probably built in the same factory in China, just painted different colors with different stickers.

Do any of you have any experience with this type of parts washer?

I am planning on dropping the shelf and mounting the unit on a HF furniture dolly since I have several. I like to keep all my equipment on wheels and the extra height will be a big plus.

I am going to remote mount the pump in a rectangular plastic bucket under the unit. The tank will be a 'dry sump' draining through a hose into the bucket. The bucket reservoir will also reduce the amount of cleaning agent in the system. I have plenty of plastic containers to soak parts inside the unit.

I may put a ball valve on the inlet to the filter to regulate flow.

I will mount the filter right where the pump switch is. It may even fit inside the tank if I use a short enough filter. The ultimate no-mess filter change.

[pinkscoot]

I used a mix of diesel and paint thinner and something else, its been too long, I found it while searching for what to use.. I made the mistake of not putting it on a dolly or putting a hose and valve on the drain. I also left the pump in it and it doesn't work now. It sounds like your headed in the right direction.

[190mech]

Ive got a washer like that,use 'mineral spirits'/'paint thinner'.I like your tank mod,would keep the solvent in a closed container so it wouldnt evaporate,,We had an old safety-clean unit years ago which had a 15 gal steel drum for a base,solvent and pump in there and the wash basin on top of it,with a filter element in a drain basket at the return,That was a great old unit,beats the heck out of the china stuff!!

[FrankenMech]

Thanks guys!

O-Really has a 100% mineral spirit parts cleaner at $88 for a 5 gallon bucket. I see Tractor Supply has it also. I imagine some other auto parts stores have it too. I would use diesel fuel but it stinks to high heaven. Home Depot has 'mineral spirits' but it is some 'green' concoction that isn't worth beans.

The plastic reservoir bucket is from cat litter. It has a 2/3-1/3 lid arrangement that seals ~OK, much better than the metal parts cleaner lid even with a foam gasket. I would be drilling two holes for fuel line in the fixed part. I would cut a rectangular hole like the one in the parts washer tank for the pump housing so the switch would be on the outside. I wish I had a rectangular metal can to use but the plastic will work for many years. It is replaceable also. If I use solvent degreaser I will dump 2" of water in the bottom of the reservoir to drop out the big sludge. The whole system should only take about 2 gallons of solvent.

I need to confirm the drain plug thread size and find a barb fitting for it. I think it is some metric thread, supposedly M14x1.5. I would like to use 1/2" hose for the drain line. I don't want any leaks on the external hoses.

I may even add some 2x4's under the legs to raise the washer higher. I am 6'4" and I hate to bend over to work. Doing dishes at a regular height kitchen counter is a PITA. I have often wished I had raised the kitchen cabinets with 2x6's under them when I last remodeled the kitchen.

I think the little garden pool/fountain pumps will work for a pump replacement. They are just little impeller pumps like they use in fish tanks too.

The problem with submersible pumps and the caustic water base degreasers or even just plain water is the moisture can seep past the electrical wires into the connections to the motor coil and corrode the connections. They never get a good seal there because there is silicone on the outside of the wires so there is no adhesive bond and the plastic insulation shrinks with time due to leaching of some of the plasticizers. This is the most common failure in submersible pumps used in sump pumps etc. It is double trouble when the sump pump is connected to a GFI outlet per code. The leakage current through the cord connections trips the GFI. My answer to that is to rewire the outlet without a GFI. I think code allows a single outlet (not a duplex outlet) to be wired for a specific appliance without a GFI. I am probably wrong about that. I am NOT a 'code' electrician.

[gsx600racer]

I use kero or diesel fuel in a small washing bucket and brush to clean small parts. For larger items drag out my Karcher commercial electric steam power washer. With only 1500 to 2000 psi to work with, the steam does all the work.(plus I dont get my hands dirty)

[FrankenMech]

I have used the parts washing bucket method for years but I grew tired of sitting with my face in a bucket. I used diesel, paint thinner, and even gasoline in the bucket. With the lid closed between uses it didn't evaporate very fast. When it did, it was time to clean the bucket. Gasoline can be a 'blast' if one is not careful.

[FrankenMech]

I have a new-old-stock dishwasher that I have considered using to clean larger parts. I have heard they work well but nothing to compare to that commercial unit.

I have a friend coming over to help with the nuts and bolts to put together the parts washer. I will try to take a few pics.