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Post by zummerp on Mar 29, 2018 9:02:06 GMT -5
I’m having some very minor drips from my drain plugs - engine oil on one and gear oil on the other. Does anyone use Teflon tape on the threads or a small line of RTV for added protection? I’m going to change both today and figure it’s a good time.
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Post by benji on Mar 29, 2018 9:51:08 GMT -5
Most rtv isn't oil proof, so it'll start leaking again. Have you tried replacing the oil drain bolt or adding a brass washer?
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Post by zummerp on Mar 29, 2018 10:07:24 GMT -5
Most rtv isn't oil proof, so it'll start leaking again. Have you tried replacing the oil drain bolt or adding a brass washer? Do you happen to know the sizes of the washers? For whatever it's worth, I did buy the "Ultra Black" that is supposed to be the most oil resistant. I was reading online that some folks recommend changing the washer each time they change they oil? Thanks so much! |
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Post by tortoise2 on Mar 29, 2018 14:57:16 GMT -5
drips from my drain plugs Synthetic engine oil may be a contributing factor . . . "But while synthetic oil won't create a leak, it will find one. Its streamlined molecular structure has no mercy for cracked or otherwise marginal seals. The oil and its additives may even clean deposits from the engine, which is good -- unless those deposits are acting like spackle on questionable seals." . . sourceA little dab of pipe thread compound works fine.  |
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Post by zummerp on Mar 29, 2018 15:24:36 GMT -5
I am sort of wondering if I’m just not tightening the plugs enough. I am so hyper paranoid about stripping the threads on this thing that I go very gentle.
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 30, 2018 0:04:49 GMT -5
Take the plugs to the parts store or hardware store and buy some neoprene gaskets.
'GOOD' Teflon tape can help, not the cheap stuff, but the plugs are meant to be sealed with gaskets.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Mar 30, 2018 8:14:48 GMT -5
The auto parts "HELP" section normally has a selection of drain plug washers. They are not inexpensive as one for an Accord was ~$5 if I remember correctly.
I think I might go to Ace Hardware and ask if they have any copper washers. Nylon washers are also an alternative.
Given these are NOT pipe threaded plugs, I would NOT use Teflon tape on the threads of any as it will not help seal as the threads are not compressed to each other as the plug is tightened.
You could alternatively wrap copper wire around the thread, near the head of the bolt, and form a spiral of copper that would work as a washer. See AvE on youtube for an example where it held over 1000psi... It works.
Tighten the drain plug by hand until the head contacts the case surface, or the washer if so fitted. You should not have to turn the bolt more than 1/8 of a turn past 'contact' to have it seal, with about a '10lb pull' on the handle of a regular 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. Be sure both sealing surfaces, actually all FOUR are clean when you re-assemble. The bottom of the bolt head, two sides of the washer and the surface of the sump or gearcase. If the washer appears to be damaged or have a 'groove', try flipping it over to use the other sealing surface. They can be re-used without problem, but not forever. Regular old copper washers should work fine. The gearcase should allow the use of fiber washers if you have them. The 150 machine gear cases have fiber washers(some, anyway) on all the bolts used to hold the case together. In short, the washer should be made of material that will deform over imperfections and thus form a good seal.
If you are unsure about tightness, get a HF torque wrench, and some 3/8 or 1/4" drive sockets to match, and set the wrench to about 10ft/lb. You can look up the recommended torque in one of the service PDF files.
If you do spark plug changes, you likely should get a torque wrench to avoid over-tightening the plug, or stripping the threads.
tom
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