Valve adjustment on 49cc 139QMB

[scootnewb]

TaoTao ATM 50.

The manual shows it should be 0.05mm for both intake and exhaust. Other videos I've seen say .003mm/.004mm/.005mm
. Then others say fourthousandths of an inch so .004in



I don't get it. It seems like there is an error in the manual or lots of people are a decimal point off or saying mm when they mean inch.

Please advise.

Thanks

[KSR Moto]

90Gtvert suggested to me 0.002" intake and 0.003" exhaust, I adjusted mine this way and it works great no valve noise, starts up easier too

[tocoo]

Peugeot uses the 139qmb for the kisbee and the manual says
intake = 0.10 mm ±0.02
exhaust = 0.10 mm ±0.02

[KSR Moto]

Apr 23, 2018 3:18:27 GMT -5 tocoo said:

Peugeot uses the 139qmb for the kisbee and the manual says
intake = 0.10 mm ±0.02
exhaust = 0.10 mm ±0.02

Can you screenshot that manual I cant find it online but i would like to read it

They use 139qmb in v-clic model too

However I think that is little loose and it would have valve noise

[scootnewb]

Peugeot uses the 139qmb for the kisbee and the manual says
intake = 0.10 mm ±0.02
exhaust = 0.10 mm ±0.02

So that would align with four-thousandths of an inch



So are these the feeler blades to use?

[scootnewb]

oops

[tocoo]

for the kisbee 4 stroke 50cc


for the v-clic, I found the manual online
scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/download/peugeot_vclic_servicemanual.pdf
and it says to refer to another manual for the engine itself. it is the same as the kisbee
scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/download/peugeot_workshop_manual_50_cc_4-stroke_engine_2_valves_air_cooling.pdf

the manual for the kisbee is here
www.scooterhulp.com/instructieboekjes-en-manuals/22868-peugeot-kisbee-4t-manual.html
There is also an english version somewhere.

[GrumpyUnk]

"The manual" has different suggested adjustments depending on who wrote it. The Peugot settings are larger than those suggested/specified by other manufacturers. Wonder if they do the same thing when measuring cylinder bore, piston diameter and ring size... I'm sure they do for crankshaft seal surfaces, with some allowing oil to leak past a standard sized seal, and others being nice, clean and dry. Who knows.
I'm going with the .002/.003 I think. Maybe.
tom

[KSR Moto]

Apr 23, 2018 15:23:19 GMT -5 GrumpyUnk said:

"The manual" has different suggested adjustments depending on who wrote it. The Peugot settings are larger than those suggested/specified by other manufacturers. Wonder if they do the same thing when measuring cylinder bore, piston diameter and ring size... I'm sure they do for crankshaft seal surfaces, with some allowing oil to leak past a standard sized seal, and others being nice, clean and dry. Who knows.
I'm going with the .002/.003 I think. Maybe.
tom

Exactly!, with those adjustments mine would run very poorly, i use 002"in, 003"ex

[scootnewb]

I'm going with the .002/.003

I am too cause .004 is causing clatter. 

[scootnewb]

Well, I've tried them all and I am still getting clatter. I guess I might be doing something wrong but it seems pretty straight forward. Set to TDC, use feeler gauge before and after tightening the nut. Make sure there is a little drag but not real resistance.

I've gone from 005 004 003 002 0015.

I still get this.



But I think I got that idle problem sorted fam. XD

I also popped on the Uniflow so I will need to change the  jets but I don't even want to start on that until I can solve this ticking problem. 

I am kind of frustrated because i don't really know what I am doing and I think perhaps the piston is making contact with the valves. I think maybe the cam is a tooth or so off.  

[dexameth]

Apr 26, 2018 13:48:19 GMT -5 scootnewb said:

Well, I've tried them all and I am still getting clatter. I guess I might be doing something wrong but it seems pretty straight forward. Set to TDC, use feeler gauge before and after tightening the nut. Make sure there is a little drag but not real resistance.

I've gone from 005 004 003 002 0015.

I still get this.



But I think I got that idle problem sorted fam. XD

I also popped on the Uniflow so I will need to change the  jets but I don't even want to start on that until I can solve this ticking problem. 

I am kind of frustrated because i don't really know what I am doing and I think perhaps the piston is making contact with the valves. 

Are you running this right now with the non-relief piston?? Or did the Glixal replacement come in...?

[cagiva4ever]

Are you sure that it is Valve Clatter ? and not a loose worn streched timing chain clatter/Tensioner issue ?

maybe worth getting using simple audiple/audio Stethoscope...And only after that Checking Tensioner, Re-setting it..

[diynuke]

Apr 26, 2018 13:48:19 GMT -5 scootnewb said:

Well, I've tried them all and I am still getting clatter. I guess I might be doing something wrong but it seems pretty straight forward. Set to TDC, use feeler gauge before and after tightening the nut. Make sure there is a little drag but not real resistance.

I've gone from 005 004 003 002 0015.

I still get this.



But I think I got that idle problem sorted fam. XD

I also popped on the Uniflow so I will need to change the  jets but I don't even want to start on that until I can solve this ticking problem. 

I am kind of frustrated because i don't really know what I am doing and I think perhaps the piston is making contact with the valves. 

Watch out that you don't tilt the feeller gauge.   and it almost kind of sounds like there is play in the bearings of the cam.
mine also has some valve noise so i will try a tighter gap.   now i have 0.10mm in   0.15mm out
however no more wear on anything after 19.000km (always have been that gap)

[scootnewb]

This is completely stock. I haven't installed the BBK yet but I did redo the top end. I was installing the BBK when I noticed the piston was incorrect so I cleaned  up the original parts, oiled them up and re-assembled. I think perhaps the cam is a tooth or so off.

 

a loose worn streched timing chain clatter/Tensioner issue ?

I hope not. It only has 270 miles on it but I guess it could still be that.

I can not do anything ATM it is raining again but I thought this might be a reliable way to check the cam timing. 

I do not have a timing light.



So would this work?





Move the flywheel until it is at TDC then make sure the 'T' is lined up with the timing mark on the engine case.







Then check the cam to make sure it is in that magic position.




This is how the cam is aligned when at TDC or BDC. Those holes... 

If it is not lined up that way when the flywheel is pointing to TDC, then adjust the cam accordingly.



You think?