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Post by magnificent on Aug 2, 2018 12:11:49 GMT -5
Hey y'all, newbie here. Thanks 49cc Scoot for the youtube vids, that's how I found the forum. Wished I signed up years ago.
I have a 125cc Kymco Agility 2006, 42,000km.
The right brake handle is really stiff when braking and it is time for a maintenance service. I will be changing the drive belt soon. Was thinking of cleaning the variator. I can do the oil/transmission change myself as well as the CDI, battery, ignition coil, spark plug few years ago. Looking at my manual I will also need to do some inspection later on.
Major issue: 1. Brake handle.
[Issue added] 2. No lube since I've had the scooter. 3. Squeaking noise when braking. I changed the brake pads before only and sand paper the rust of the disc plate but still squeaking now and then.
Would appreciate anyone's help. |
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PirateLabs
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 296
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Post by PirateLabs on Aug 2, 2018 13:14:31 GMT -5
When is the last time you lubed your brake cable? it may be very worn and coming apart and getting hung up in the cable tube. They make a nice, inexpensive little device you can use to make sure your cables are totally lubed properly which is, or should be, part of normal maintenance. I would try lubricating the brake handle pivot points first to see if that helps. It might just be binding up from being dry and having some dirt in there.
Bill
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Post by dexameth on Aug 2, 2018 13:42:27 GMT -5
My left handle (hyro brake lever) was frozen after a few weeks of sitting, unfortunately in the rain sometimes, and it was the carrier bolt in the middle had rusted. I loosened it up, worked it free and everything is back to normal. Remove your bolt, put a dab of grease on it, reinstall. While your there, inspect your cable like PirateLabs mentioned, and if it's okay and not frayed get some lube down in it. I use a non-waxy bicycle chain lube or 3-in-1 oil. Drip it into the cable housing and work it in. |
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Post by humanshield on Aug 2, 2018 16:01:01 GMT -5
I would consider draining, flushing and refilling the entire brake system if you've never done it. Brake fluid is a moisture sponge and the fluid can get water logged after a while mucking up everything.
Then, as Dex above said, lube that puppy up good. The resistance could be the problem Dex mentioned or problems developing in the caliper itself.
Hopefully, it's the easiest and cheapest to resolve for ya.
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PirateLabs
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 296
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Post by PirateLabs on Aug 2, 2018 20:05:37 GMT -5
I would consider draining, flushing and refilling the entire brake system if you've never done it. Brake fluid is a moisture sponge and the fluid can get water logged after a while mucking up everything. Then, as Dex above said, lube that puppy up good. The resistance could be the problem Dex mentioned or problems developing in the caliper itself. Hopefully, it's the easiest and cheapest to resolve for ya. Oh, does that model have rear disk brakes? I did not know that. Evidently, my advice to lube the cable does not apply here, ha ha. I have only seen like one or two Kymco scooters around these parts so I am not familiar with the different models. Bill |
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Post by magnificent on Aug 2, 2018 22:29:02 GMT -5
When is the last time you lubed your brake cable? it may be very worn and coming apart and getting hung up in the cable tube. They make a nice, inexpensive little device you can use to make sure your cables are totally lubed properly which is, or should be, part of normal maintenance. I would try lubricating the brake handle pivot points first to see if that helps. It might just be binding up from being dry and having some dirt in there. Bill Lube? Never. What kind of lube do you use? I think I saw a vid on cleaning the brake line using brake cleaner. Oh sorry guys it's actually the right handbrake lever not the left that is stiff. My apology. Damn I might have another issue. I remember changing the rear shoe brake before and noticed the brake line nut is right at the end instead of being 1-3cm in? My left handle (hyro brake lever) was frozen after a few weeks of sitting, unfortunately in the rain sometimes, and it was the carrier bolt in the middle had rusted. I loosened it up, worked it free and everything is back to normal. Remove your bolt, put a dab of grease on it, reinstall. While your there, inspect your cable like PirateLabs mentioned, and if it's okay and not frayed get some lube down in it. I use a non-waxy bicycle chain lube or 3-in-1 oil. Drip it into the cable housing and work it in. Not sure how to do this yet but will start with the lube first once I know kind of lube to get. I would consider draining, flushing and refilling the entire brake system if you've never done it. Brake fluid is a moisture sponge and the fluid can get water logged after a while mucking up everything. Then, as Dex above said, lube that puppy up good. The resistance could be the problem Dex mentioned or problems developing in the caliper itself. Hopefully, it's the easiest and cheapest to resolve for ya. Do mean change the brake fluid? I did it recently but I got a feeling it was not done properly. |
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Post by snaker on Aug 3, 2018 9:43:20 GMT -5
All of these posts and things are still clear as mud.
I will make an assumption that you are talking about a hydraulic disk brake .
If so, look at your lever. If it moves in farther than before then there is air in the system or it needs new parts.
If the lever moves in about the same as always then there is air in the system or the pads are slipping or it needs new parts.
Your last post mentions that you recently changed fluid and you think that you did it wrong. Really?
Bleed the brakes. Lots of Utube video's out there.
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