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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 14, 2024 16:41:08 GMT -5
Yes, if you remember I made some not so minor mods to a Piaggio exhaust back on page 9 of this thread. 190Mech helped me with the large center section I spliced in, I may try to resurrect that pipe. I dont know, I have more time than $$ so I may get around to building a new pipe at some point, but I will likely just rig something up as usual.LOL This is the pipe I am talking about.  Wow nice pipe! Nice job John! Totally forgot about that post🙈 |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 14, 2024 20:15:24 GMT -5
TPR 86cc Motor Build:
I got the gearbox assembled and put the wheel on. I went to install the motor in the scoot and found that since I made the cases wider by using a spacer between the case halves there was almost a 1/4" of side to side play. I fixed that by pushing the mount bushings on each side of the motor closer together.
I also tried installing a new shock I had picked up that I thought was for the ZX. It turned out to be about 1 1/4" longer than the OEM Kymco ZX shock and seemed to be softer than the OEM shock. I took it back off and installed the used OEM Kymco ZX shock I had.
I still have the carb to set up, the CVT to assemble and I will have to repipe the cooling system to fit this motor.
Of course the exhaust will also have to be done.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 15, 2024 20:50:47 GMT -5
TPR 86cc Motor Build: Worked on it most of the day, did a couple things I was not planning to do right now but one thing led to another. I needed to replace the fuel lines and decided it would be a good time to delete the vacuum petcock. Then I spent an hour looking at fittings for the tank. The tank had what I believe to be 16mm male threads on the nipple. 90° fittings to go from 16mm male to 5/16" barb were over $20 each. I figured out I could cut 1/8 pipe threads internal to the nipple. The fitting I ordered is 90° 1/8Pt to 8mm OD barb, the fitting was about $8 for 2 of them. I got the cooling lines replumbed and I thought I had it all good until I took a picture and saw the water inlet hose to the cylinder is directly in the path the exhaust needs to take. The cylinder water inlet fitting is aluminum and needs to be converted to a 90° somehow. It needs to be close to the cylinder so there is room for the exhaust. I was thinking I could cut external threads on it, maybe. The fitting diameter is 17.2mm, if anyone has an idea..... I drilled and tapped a mounting hole for the coil, I like it where it is, nice and short lead to the spark plug.     |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 20, 2024 18:47:21 GMT -5
TPR 86cc Motor Build: It took most of the day but I got a test pipe fitted. I was checking all of the pipes I had to see if any fit and found the Phongeer short would fit with some work at the flange. I never plan to use that pipe anyway so I chopped it up to make it fit. It was a high revving pipe and the ID at the flange was about 29mm so it may work out good at least for now. Flange cut from pipe and replaced with a 25mm ID flange from a Yasuni C16  Fitup of C16 flange  Welded up with the TIG   |
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 21, 2024 5:59:36 GMT -5
Like it was ment to be. 👌
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 22, 2024 20:35:15 GMT -5
TPR 86cc Motor build: Getting down to the nitty gritty now. I put coolant in the system and ran the pump, no leaks! So much more water flow than my 120cc LC setup had. Added Gear oil.  Set the PHBG 21mm carb up. 100mj 48p 30slide W11needle 264needle jet. Put a red spring in the contra and set the Polini 3G clutch up for about 7000 (I am rethinking the red contra spring) I think all that's left to do is figure out a setup for the variator and add gas. A small update on the Vastro 123cc motor build: The fly cutter I ordered arrived, I ground my first bit from HSS and tried the flycutter out on a piece of scrap aluminium. I think I should have been a machinist because I am starting to enjoy doing this type of stuff.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 23, 2024 0:45:05 GMT -5
I think all that's left to do is figure out a setup for the variator and add gas. ...And charge the dragy.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 23, 2024 18:23:19 GMT -5
Its alive!Some tuning still to be done on the carb and CVT. I cannot get my high$$ timing light to work, the search is on for a cheap one. Topping out around 10800 RPM for now, I think it needs some advance.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 25, 2024 11:51:32 GMT -5
Vastro 123cc motor build: I am pleased with how it came out. I feel a lot better about the ability for the water jacket to seal. (edit) I also ended up doing the part that mates to the head because I dont really like the anodized surface, it is kinda slick and glossy. Before milling  After milling with fly cutter.  |
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 25, 2024 17:04:13 GMT -5
TPR 86cc Motor build:
This is my first run with the Dragy. This is with a little tuning done on the carb and one setup change on the CVT. Not great but not bad either. Hopefully better runs to come.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 25, 2024 18:08:01 GMT -5
That's really good for the first attempt with hardly any setup time and not the full RPM that it can do on the wrong type of engine. What is it revving to BTW? Can't really see it.
My bests are very high 10s at 55-60MPH in the 1/8, but it routinely runs in the 11 second range. 60 fts are usually 2.4-2.6 and 0-30s typically 3.2-3.5 with bests just under 3. For some reference to what difference certain changes made, with the MVT and Peace Pipe at roughly 10,500 peak power 0-30s were 3.8 (couldn't do 60ft and 1/8 back then). With a modified stock ignition, 0-30s were 4.3-4.4 at best. I stay pretty much right on 300lb, so with T2 about 550lb of scoot/rider/gear and likely just a little under that with it in T1.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 25, 2024 21:24:56 GMT -5
That's really good for the first attempt with hardly any setup time and not the full RPM that it can do on the wrong type of engine. What is it revving to BTW? Can't really see it. My bests are very high 10s at 55-60MPH in the 1/8, but it routinely runs in the 11 second range. 60 fts are usually 2.4-2.6 and 0-30s typically 3.2-3.5 with bests just under 3. For some reference to what difference certain changes made, with the MVT and Peace Pipe at roughly 10,500 peak power 0-30s were 3.8 (couldn't do 60ft and 1/8 back then). With a modified stock ignition, 0-30s were 4.3-4.4 at best. I stay pretty much right on 300lb, so with T2 about 550lb of scoot/rider/gear and likely just a little under that with it in T1. It has been around 10850 -10950 near the end. On a longer run I saw 11250 @59mph I feel my initial setup was fairly good due to me using info from my database of other builds. I basically set up the carb and CVT same as my 103cc build from a while back, except for lighter weights as I knew higher RPM's were needed. Temps are holding around 120°F Beyond finishing the carb and CVT tune I dont know what to do next. The timing should be at 20°=1.64mm as specified in the cylinder manual. The HPI iggy manual states a base setting of 2mm which would put me at about 22° BTDC. I forgot I switched to the second curve, it did seem to respond better but I need to verify that. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 25, 2024 21:30:38 GMT -5
It’s a pain, but basically you’d need to move timing a couple of degrees one way or another and dragy it both ways again. Move it more or go the other way depending what you see and dragy more. You can go smaller increments if you want to from the start or once you think you’re in the ballpark after some tests.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 25, 2024 21:48:35 GMT -5
It’s a pain, but basically you’d need to move timing a couple of degrees one way or another and dragy it both ways again. Move it more or go the other way depending what you see and dragy more. You can go smaller increments if you want to from the start or once you think you’re in the ballpark after some tests. I cannot seem to get my timing light working more than a few blinks, which is strange because I used it previously with the HPI iggy when it was on the 120cc and it worked fine. I suppose I can set up the degree wheel and do it that way. So what am I looking for? A increase in performance when changing nothing but the IGGY advance? What was that explanation about advance you told me? I forgot it already! |
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 25, 2024 22:00:35 GMT -5
It’s a pain, but basically you’d need to move timing a couple of degrees one way or another and dragy it both ways again. Move it more or go the other way depending what you see and dragy more. You can go smaller increments if you want to from the start or once you think you’re in the ballpark after some tests. I cannot seem to get my timing light working more than a few blinks, which is strange because I used it previously with the HPI iggy when it was on the 120cc and it worked fine. I suppose I can set up the degree wheel and do it that way. So what am I looking for? A increase in performance when changing nothing but the IGGY advance? What was that explanation about advance you told me? I forgot it already! You can move it by degree wheel or dial indicator for mm BTDC or timing light checks. The cheap basic lights are on Amazon so it prob wouldn’t take too long to get if you prefer that. For me, I like to test with whatever I want to see gains in. If I wanna do stronger 1/8 miles then I’ll test 1/8 mile and see what goes quicker/faster. The simple explanation that I think helped you before was that basically ignition timing will follow engine efficiency/power and with a 2T that’s a lot about the pipe. If the pipe isn’t hitting at all, it can benefit from a lot of advance usually. As the pipe comes in, timing needs to retard from what works when it’s off the pipe. It gets pretty complicated with all of the factors, but you don’t even have to have a great grasp to use results based adjustments. If you go faster and it’s not knocking, overheating, running lean… then you got it. A dyno is the ultimate tool for finding HP with timing and jetting, but using a dragy will get you results if you keep testing reliable/repeatable and track data. |
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